I know this is an old post but I'm curious about how the technique differs from a standard set up. What can I expect? How do you setup the gun, etc?
The technique is not completely different that a "conversion" hvlp that is normal in a body shop. Critical things to keep in mind are keeping the gun close (10in) and consistent to the panel, and being able to keep up with it. Its more like using a giant paint brush than "misting" on paint. As far as setup, 1.00 to 1.3mm nozzle sizes work well for most automotive finishes. There really is no "trick" to getting it to work well, besides keeping it close and moving.
I purchased an HVLP Turbine unit from Harbor Freight for a project and was really surprised how well it worked. The cost was around $110.00 dollars and it works great and sprays nice and the cool thing is you just plug into any 110 volt outlet. Many of the guys that fix some dents and things that use because they are so portable and easy to use. No fish eyes, moisture problems and best of all very little over-spray. Jimbo
aero pretty much hit it on the head. keeping a good consistant distance and speed are the biggest. best way to think of it is imagine painting everything with a large tipped gun. material comes out at a pretty good pace. but the good thing about it is once you get used to that pace it lays material down nicely. i used a HF unit a buddy had and it wasn't bad. but if you liked it you'd fall in love with one of the bigger units. i've used mine and one of the TP Tools units and liked both...ken....
I just finished spraying some black epoxy prime ron my 56 with my TP Tools HVLP turbine set up this past weekend. Anyone sitting on the fence about picking one up to paint at home, should be picking one of these up. I've sprayed smaller parts with it but never an entire truck. There was literally next to no over spray. I used my exhaust fan just to exhaust the fumes. To do do 2 wet coats on the cab and front end of my truck took less than 1/4 of a gallon of primer, that's pretty damn good!! With a system like this, anyone could paint their car in their own home shop with quality results
as long as you can couple the other guns to the 1" hose and quick connector, I don't see why a guy couldn't do it
TP Tools has a disposable cup set up for their guns. http://www.tptools.com/Disposable-Gravity-Cup-System,3336.html?b=d*8052
After thinking about this for years and exchanging PMs with a couple of HAMBers who have used this type of system, I finally sprung for the TP Tools system a couple of weeks ago. I haven't tried it yet but I'm looking forward to trying it out. Hopefully I can get used to whatever new technique that may be required. It anyone else has good pics of finish coats, please post them up so I know I didn't waste my money! Looking forward to giving it a try. I open to all ideas, tips, and tricks that you all might have.
you pretty much have to load up your gun and adjust your settings accordingly. You rotate the black ring on the end of the air cap the adjust the needle depth with changes your fan pattern. You can also rotate the nozzle for vertical, horizontal, diagonal or spot spraying. Then the only other adjustment is for material delivery which is adjusted with the knob on the back of the gun. ANYONE that has an clue on how to operate a spray gun, can paint their car and achieve great results with these turbines.
I'm glad to hear positive things on the TP system, I plan to buy one soon. Please keep posting any of your results and tips on using them. Thanks for keeping this thread alive
Looks great, thanks for the info! That's the setup I've been eyeing. Lots more rust repair and bodywork to do before that though...
The more stages you have the better it will atomize the paint, with less thinning, producing a better quality final product. During my pre purchase research I was recommended by Fuji to buy the 4 stage to paint a car. I had been looking at the 2 stage. I split the difference and bought a 3 stage for fear of investing in something that wouldn't do the job. The 3 stage will also be more useful for other projects later on (fence, house, etc). Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Two stage is plenty for automotive work provided the gun is efficient. I have shot quite a bit of AU single stage with a 2-stage Croix turbine and Sicmo gun, no cutting or buffing required. If you are going to go with a "modern" clear...might want to look at the 3 stage reguardless. The Fuji and Turbinaire guns are not as efficient as some, but better than others. Meaning a 3 stage on a Fuji will lay out a finish as well as a 2 stage on a Sicmo. The latest Apollo 7500T needs a 3 stage at least, does a beautiful job, but has more overspray (overspray being a function of velocity and "curtain effect").
Hey Guys! I am very heavily considering doing a technical review on all the current HVLP turbine guns out there, spraying the materials we use on cars. It would be pretty basic including things like gun durability, ease of cleaning, overspray and finish quality using urethanes and a couple more traditional materials. Is this something that would be of interest here?
Ok Ill get the ball rolling. I have a number of the brands already and am seeing if I can borrow the ones I don't have. I am going to include both the inexpensive ones and the not so inexpensive ones. Stay tuned.
I look forward to your comparisons. Just to reiterate how easy it is to achieve a nice finish with this system. I had my 15 year old son spray the 2 coats of epoxy primer on my 56 truck bed this weekend. He's never even picked up a spray gun before, let alone shot and entire half of a truck. There was only 1 run in the entire thing
I would be very interested. Particularly in Acrylic Lacquer (no clear), and Hardened Acrylic Enamel also no clear. What speed reducers work best with this set-up. Thanks.
yup he shot it just where it sits. We wet the floor down 1 hour previous to spraying so any over spray there was, sits on the damp floor and is later swept up as dust.
Hi and thanks for providing some feedback on the various guns. I read your earlier comment on guns and have the Apollo 7500 but some more info would be very much appreciated. Especially over the over-thinning needed to counter the warmer air and nozzle sizes.