I am running a warmed over 327 in my coupe. I just split the nose cone on the starter for the second time. These were stock type starters. going to a mini with a square mount. any ideas why I have broken two, both were shimmed, and should the square mount take care of the problem? any ideas or info as usual appreciated. thanx, larry
I have never seen that happen before but could it be not having the brace that runs from the starter to the block that a lot folks don't put back after starter replacement.
I have owned and operated a sea container full of small block chevrolets over the years - and I have never had this problem. It's always been 'the other guy' that has this problem...lol. Where are you getting your starters from? China? In the past when I was messing with small blocks all the time, anytime I was ever in a 'good' junkyard I would always keep my eyes peeled for a good Delco starter. At one time I had a nice collection of them. There is no replacement for a good old fashioned Delco Remy starter motor.
Larry you may have to shim the starter. Yes the correct bolts are a must and the brace works too. I have had some that needed shims. Just mentioning a friend of mine just had the part of his aluminum block break off that holds his starter. JMHO
I always liked the cast iron nose with a BOP motor. Never used no steenkin' braces. Never had any major problems. Also like to use a bus bar on the GM solenoid and a Ford solenoid on the fender-well so only one cable feeds the starter and is only energized when starting. Diagrams exist for doing that.
Thanx for the replies. just some more info. with the first one to break I had the brace in place. thought maybe it was putting some twist or torque on starter so I left it off. Starters were from Auto zone. appear to be an aluminum nose cone.Used the original bolts. never thought of timing. again, thanx for input. larry
How much do you think GM paid to design, produce, and install those braces on the starters? Must be a reason.....
They are crappy starter's from autozone. I have been though a few. The last one had a busted case and nose cone after a month. It is a good idea to inspect them before leaving the store. I just take back my junk one get a new one and hope for the best.
Find a REAL Chevy starter, and rebuild it yourself, (about nine bucks for parts!) saves you from having to learn new cuss words !! Chris
Use the Cadillac body, it has a longer armature. The power wire comes out near the end plate. I got a starter from Discount for my o/t last month that had a crack in it.
Lots of compression, too much lead. Already thrining the nose cone from the compression and then bam the engoin kicks when it fires and broken snout. OK this is just a scenario when a starter nose cone gets hammered. As has been mentioned the front support is a must have even with a mild engine on that heavy assed starter, and unless you are racing a mild tune is also a must not only for the starter but for engine life on pump gas.
Buy a genuine AC Delco starter or get a core at pick-a-part and rebuild it! It's not that hard. I did a starter rebuild thread a few months ago. Was a fun little project!
I've never ran a brace and never broken a cone. in fact, I had never seen or heard of it, until the internet came out. As stated, it's something that a lot of guys toss out. I'd look somewhere else. I'm thinking shims, bolts or flexplate to ring gear clearance.
i broke several starter nose cones on my 327. it was cause by too much advance. i also added a support bracket. one time it broke and someone helped me get it started by pushing the cracked starter upward with a scissor jack to close up the gap.
The mechanical advance in the distrlibutor may be gummed up and sticking at full advance. I have seen this several times. This will cause a kick back against the starter. Pull the dist and take the mechanical advance apart.
You have never broke one yet. While working for a GM dealership I put a lot of them back on that had broke, made a believer out of me.
Got my mini starter ready to go in and the instructions say not to over tighten. I am embarrassed to say I never thought of that. Possible reason for the breakage? What should be the torque? Instructions suggest 32 lbs.
This a real possibility as although engine was covered the day it broke we had a heavy dew. Running an HEI and never had the top off. Any suggestions as to drying out, hair dryer? again guys I really appreciate ALL the comments. Larry
It is not the fault of the starter..no matter who's or where you buy it. It is caused from lack of shims, too many shims, or a timing issue.
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