I have some questions about plumbing in a fuel pressure regulator for an edelbrock carb. Ive got a 390 with the factory mechanical fuel pump. I have a low pressure holley regulator, a liquid filled jegs guage, a fram fuel filter and a 600 cfm edelbrock carb. Ive been doing some googling, but can any shed some light on how to plumb it up so it doesnt look cheap. Right now Ive got a rubber line off the pump, a filter spliced in, and the guage spliced it. It looks pretty cheap and ghetto and I figure that since I need to plumb in the regulator Ill fix it all up.<O</O Thanks guys!<O</O
What he said. Beware of that liquid filled gauge. They have a tendency to drop to zero when they get hot, leading you to believe you lost all fuel pressure.
I found edelbrock makes this plate which would make the mounting portion easy. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8189?seid=srese1&gclid=CNPhqIeK_LwCFbFaMgodPWwADw Then I guess just hard line it up to the regulator. Ive found countless holley pictures that are clean and nice but so far no luck for an edelbrock.
Can you fab up a bracket say off the manifold or cylinder head to hold the regulator then hard line to it. Then you could put a fitting on the outlet with a place for the gauge then run line to carb.
Hard line, with MINIMAL rubber hose for strain relief (e.g. hard line from the tank/framerail to the fuel pump). Invest in a good set of tube benders and flare tool, take your time routing and bending and it'll look bitchin'!
Unless it is an early good looking regulator I would not bother with one on your set up. No need for a regulator on a mechanical pump and a modern carb. IMHO
No its a new ugly one but on initial start up I'm getting about 9-10 psi and then when warm is dropping to 8. I'm googling decent tight radius benders without breaking the bank.
I agree. I have never had a problem running a edelbrock without a regulator on a mechanical pump. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
If it's not flooding you don't have a problem to correct. I'm running dual 97s on my Studebaker engine with a stock pump and no problems at all. Everyone says to keep the pressure at 2.5 lbs. I bought it this way and never checked the pressure. I don't care what the pressure is as long as it doesn't flood.
Shocker, while you're at it if you got the scratch to spare, think about Eastwood's flare tool: http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html I love this tool and I've made fuel and brake lines for my truck, no leaks on the first try. Try and get a good flare tool. Nothing's worse than bending up lines all nice and all and having leaks from a crappy tool.
Damn 250.00 does it bent it self for you??? is it motorized? That would pay for all the tubing that I have replaced all these years using good old hand tools and a cheap flaring tool. You have to bend a lot of tubing to make that cost effective. IMHO
It goes on sale often. I got mine for $200. I agree with using what you got, but sometimes when I see an awesome well-designed tool, I just gotta have it! Buying tools is going to be the death of me...
I prefer the master cool hydraulic unit as you can do stainless easily , and it cost as much as the manual eastwood unit . plus it can be used to adapt to other flairs ,ike ISo. An , and swedging, and the oem fuel flares . but for bending the eastman , not eastwood , bender is the way to go . I am on my 3rd one , one walked away and I wore out one .
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