If you have a place to install one on your manifold, you can get one from Good Vibrations Motorsports or Blower Drive Service, seems like they're about $59. The small one will do the trick for your application. Simple spring loaded plate, must be mounted on a flat machined surface. Buy one before casting manifold. Makes a loud as hell pop when the backfire comes out and will startle a deaf man.
That's a neat junkyard tech right there! I would consider mounting both carbs at the rear some how and not milling the top.
Thanks Tman. Yep, cobby as hell for now. Good thought on the carb mounting. I've been mulling this over for a couple days now. The carb where it is now, plus another in front, won't fit under my hood. That's bad. But it looks the most traditional, that's good. But it does involve carving on the blower, that's bad. I could mount the carbs side by side on a lower manifold bolted to the back, that would fit under my hood. But the close proximity to the firewall is a bit of a pain. I could move them forward to the sides of the blower just behind the radiator hoses, perhaps make a manifold out of steel tubing.
I would look for one of those horizontal Strombergs. I forget what they are WWs? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Sounds good! Not familiar with them but a couple of side drafts facing air horn forward might be just the ticket. Even SUs or some such.
Running the rotors wet should not pose an issue, and will in fact just increase efficiency and reduce charge temps. The only long term issue would be fuel washing the lubricant out of the inlet bearings on the rotors. In which case you just need to catch it and replace the bearings before you get rotor contact.
I love the throttle linkage, well guess it is closer to a cable great work, this will be a nice set up
I'm not sure machining the case (on top, I assume) is a good idea - could you use some 1x4 or 2x4 aluminum tubing running horizontally from the original intake area(will need a fabbed curve) and put the carbs on top? probably not the most efficient but it would look more traditional from the outside. The blow off is a necessity, and remember every plenum with fuel in it is a potential explosion. Looks like fun!
I see a market for a new item.....wooden intake manifolds! Insulate your carb from engine heat with a genuine wooden intake manifold! Guaranteed to make extra horsepower or your money back!
Someone already beat you to it BamaMay, which is how I got the idea. I didn't even use gaskets, the wood sealed fine without 'em. If it weren't for the ribbing I'd take I'd probably leave it! http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performa...&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CN3R-8ySzbwCFciIfgodrlYA-w Got some chunks of aluminum today, going to try and mill up something along these lines. And a blow off valve too.
drag racers done it for years, heat reduction and allow them to plane spacers to make changes quickly, I remember hearing being done in some pro level racing I like the idea of fabbing an intake to sit on top if possible....or use aluminum block to fab up something similar to the wood then get the right air cleaner, maybe with an art deco look...lengthened, fabricated as needed for right look http://store.cyrilhuze.com/CyrilHuze/Assets/Medium/10209-2.jpg
the wood spacers were 2 fold they kep the heat away like you said and also increased the manifold volume which some cams needed . I would think 2 side mounter rear SU type carbs would look different have one on each side almost like air cleaners on a semi . if you put them close enough you shouldn't have any puddling from the sharp curve into the blower screw . and once it hits the blower it will vaporize . you cannot cu the top of these to make them work like a standard roots , they have to pull from the back like a latham .
Well after a lot of thinking and even more time machining, here she blows, pardon the pun. I went with the Strombergs on top and machined the blower to fit. I may be able to fit this under my hood. We'll see how it works. Got the backfire valve done too. Still needs some cleanup work, plus throttle linkage and a few other tidbits.
I think you have a problem here- as far as i know, the reason the inlet is at the back is because it's a screw blower with twisted lobes having different numbers of lobes (internal compression). The lobes shove the inlet charge forward and then down. The front carb may end up puking out everything that the rear carb feeds into the blower. -rick
Cool, for a minute i thought that was the type that eats through the back and discharges up front. I always reserve the right to be wrong, lol.. Awesome project!
Thanks for the support guys. I'm back on the road. Only round the block trips so far, still needs detail work and I'm only running one carb. Stock V8-60 carb is a Stromberg 81, I had been running a 97 (bigger), which it's again running on. The other carb I have is a 48 (even bigger than a 97) and is probably pointless. I need two 81s, and some nice scoops like bostomcamaro posted. I have a couple of leftover parts in case anyone needs. Stay tuned for my next installment, How to Replace a Broken a Crankshaft.
Awesome man. Did my math work out for pulleys? Blower looks awesome. Budget blower build... And those M90s are everywhere
that doesnt matter, the throttle body is for air, the injectors are for fuel and the blower may need the proper seals for fuel use through it. I dont know for sure, some do, some are built with the viton seals and are good to go already
I've been sidetracked building a new trans tunnel and adding an oil filter but I did take it for it's longest drive yesterday. Still using the old generator pulley so it's a bit over driven. I've been slowing increasing the load on the old flatty, the blower really wakes it up and I'm not sure how much it will take. Staying under 5lb, boost. It overheated yesterday after 3 or 4 hard hill climbs. Not sure what timing or jetting changes it may now need. I never disassembled the rotor pack so I don't know what seals are in the front bearings, the rears had seals of some sort. I'm going to pull it down in a few weeks and see if the grease I put in the back bearings is still hanging in there. If the front seals go out I expect it will start burning oil coming from the snout.
I did incorporate a simple backfire valve on the blower adapter plate. Just a long stud threaded into the plate with holes drilled around it (I used my sink drain thing for a pattern/jig ). A large cork washer over the holes, a fender washer over the cork, a spring and a nylock nut that I can quickly tighten or loosen to adjust the blow off pressure.
Cool to see your blower up and running! Proves you have to try things. From what I've read people warn against using the Eaton blowers wet because of the coating used in the case and on the rotors. I have read the fuel eats this coating and it either runs through the top end of the engine or ruins the efficiency of the blower. I look forward to seeing how your blower holds up over time. I want to run a small blower on a SBC. Good luck with you set up looks cool!
Looks great! Any pictures of how you adapted the blower to the intake manifold? I suppose you made/used some type on an adapter. Also, is the intake manifold a stock factory piece, after market or modified stocker? Lastly, how about a video of it up and running - I know I'm interested in doing something similar as I have a new M90 on my shelf looking for a home.
Thanks guys. On the rotor coatings- I actually bought two M90s, the second one came real cheap and given my propensity to screw up I figured it was a good idea. Anyway, one came with the rotor coating which was already flaking. The other one had bare rotors (as pictured in one of my previous posts), those are the ones I used. I later read that some years were coated and some were not. So I'm good as far as that goes. I'll bet it wouldn't be hard to remove the coating from coated rotors. No coating on either of my cases. For the blower manifold - everything I did in the beginning was quick and dirty to see if this all would work so I used a stock aluminum intake manifold that I had previously bored out to Stromberg 97 size and just made an aluminum plate to adapt the blower. I have waiting in the wings a 2x2 manifold that I plan to carve up for a better manifold. I'm now driving my wife to work in it everyday while trying different things to keep the engine cool (usual flathead story) and slowly gaining ground so I'll try and get a video.