I bought a 35 Ford 1.5 ton truck a couple of weeks ago. I've been a member here for a while and did an intro last year after finding a 34 International. I was hot to buy but the reality set it, I was 12 days out of heart surgery and buying a project was a bad idea. So flash forward a year and I found my second choice of vehicles, my 35. I don't plan on using the frame at all, I would like to use the wishbone and front end assembly. I plan to build a model A style chassis in 4x2 tube. I also am seriously trying to figure out how to keep it a 1 ton dually on a short box wheel base and I'm going to run a Cummins 4bt. It's my first build and I'm going to have some questions if searching doesn't yield answers. So now is as good a time as any to start my build thread. I got the interior pretty well gutted and the wood floor up as well as the toe boards. Obviously the fenders, hood and eventually grill came off yesterday. My hope for tomorrow is to get the body free and get the truck off the trailer. I'm going to put together a mini frame on rollers ASAP and put the cab on there for my initial attack of serious cleaning,decision making and body work. While I know the concept of a chopped and stretched diesel powered 1 ton dually isn't everyone's cup of tea on this site I chose to update here because of the knowledge base and support.
35 was the first year for ford to build a "big" truck, the fenders are larger and running boards are shorter, other than minor differences, they are essentially the same as a pickup everywhere else. I look forward to your build, you may find dually stuff too wide, odd looking at the front. My 36 started out life as an airport fire truck, I gave up trying to keep it a dually and returned it to a pickup. See it at www.trolls.quack.net , there are also some build pics there as well.
Thanks for the replies. I don't plan to run fenders or running boards, I also don't plan to recess the fire wall which will mean pushing the radiator away from the cab. I really want to suicide the front end and am trying to figure out how to do it with what I have. My second question is (and I feel foolish asking) but how the heck do you fill the gap in the door window frame if you don't have donor doors? Again I'm not against searching, I rather enjoy it. Both of those bridges won't be crossed for a while anyhow.
What gap? If its in the window, they don't crank straight up, they crank up to the rear of the opening, leaving about a one inch gap in the front, then the last half crank of the handle moves the window forward, closing the gap. Its the no draft. There are no vent windows on these trucks. On a 35, there are garnish mouldings on the doors, on a 36, they are part of the door, the doors are interchangeable, right through 37. Don't delete the cowl vent, it acts as air conditioning in hot weather and does a mighty fine job.
I have a '36 1.5 ton dually. Mine probably get a 354 Hemi, 727 and a later rear axle but stay dually. I want to use it as a truck. Can't offer any experience since I am only measuring stuff and gathering parts. I will be watching your build. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
From what I understand mid 70's to late 80's F350/E350 2wd dually front knuckles, backing plates, brakes etc can be adapted to our axles pretty easily. It looks like 2 king pin kits are required for a couple extra shims, just need the 35/36 axle reamed out to fit the later brakes. I have a few tranny options however like most other people here this is a budget build. My costs so far: 4bt-----FREE! Tranny Adapter-----Traded Tube Bending for it Truck----300.00 plus some bending. Fuel for getting it-----38.45 I have a 3.08 Geared 8.8 drum rear offered for a little bending trade. May have to take it too. When you're one of the only guys in town with a small business based on custom tube bending, roll cages etc it's easy to make deals.
Got some more progress today. The cab is finally in the garage, hopefully next weekend I will get a short rolling frame made to put the cab on and start body work and ultimately the chop. My neighbors should be happy my yard art is shrinking.
Build you something like this....I'm building it for my 33 ford....I think its cool what your doing....but some of these people frown upon it....done mock up and going together... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Compound turbo? I'm trying to figure out what to do for an intercooler, not much space. I was thinking about a rear mounted radiator in the bed and fill the grill shell with the cooler.
You don't have to run one....I'm gonna prolly run water injection....depends on the exhaust temps...yeah me and a buddy built the twin setup cut the intake off ...fully ported and polished the head built a new intake manifold...just find you some intercooler cores and make your own....its not bad as long as your good with a tig....try cx racing...all their stuff is China ...but welds great...
Hey, guys, I don't mean to spoil your fun, but this type of driveline is waaayyyy off topic for the HAMB! BUT! There is a Diesel Power social group ( found under the Community tab up top) where they cover 4Bt's, turbos, and fast food restaurant fuel sources and what not. So, just in case the mods shut this down, you may want to regroup over there. Later, Kinky6
I don't disagree. I'd like to keep a build thread going due to the chassis style and sheet metal work I'm going to do which leads to good Q&A. I will try to keep the power plant talk out of it.
I think you're on target for staying "Traditionally Styled" here. Particularly so because this is going to be a shop truck/hauler as I understand it and there is plenty of discussion on those here. I'm still following this thread to see what you do with it.
I got to work on it a little this weekend. Funny though, I build stuff for people almost every day and have been for years and have not injured myself. I had a couple hours to work on my own stuff and has to go get laced up. Too excited maybe. Anyhow I built a roller frame and filled in some holes on the cab. Scored a grill on CL that I've always wanted, picked up an 8.8 for the build and helped a friend make a deal on a new project. Not a totally unproductive weekend.
Big score for me today. I bought an F1 column and box, an F3 axle with square back spindles, the matched set of backing plates, 8 lug hubs and drums and 1 F2 16" wheel. Cory here in Spokane really hooked me up. Also ordered door latches and mounting plates last night. Parts are coming in unfortunately off topic builds are taking up my time. One pays for the other I guess. The exciting part for me is getting away from my original disc brake idea and keeping the project headed in the right direction.
What about the TT, AA and BB? I have a early 30 AA that started life rated 2 1/4 ton. The sheet metal is same as pickup, but TT had different cab then pickup, not sure on fenders. If you want dually rear end, look into a cab and chassis set up which is much narrower than pickup dually. I run a Corp 14 bolt C&C under mine. Around 78" wide. The kick out's for flat bed come to 7', rest of bed is 6' wide. It is on stock/boxed chassis front with added 29AA frame turned backward and rails run parallel . AA followed A in being tapered outward stock. 32 fat beam on front offset drilled to take 58 Chevy 38 dually front hubs/spindles-home brew disc brake set up. Back has Blackbird custom disc that clears 16" Bud wheel-147" wheelbase
Looking forward to watching the progress on this. I have a 35 (looks identical to yours-same color even) project going now that started life as 1.5 ton farm truck belonging to my wife's granparents on their farm. The only part I'm using is the cab and maybe the grill if I can make it look ok, putting it on a 36 car chassis that I was able to score through a trade and running an 8CM and overdrive transmission that I pulled from a 50 Merc 4 door before I sold the body here locally. At some point I need to find a decent pick up bed for it. Good luck on your project.
I got backed up with OT fab work but was able to get started back on it. I have been giving body work a shot. I bought a series of hammers and dollies and slide hammer. It's addictive, I got some of the cab coming around but need to work on shrinking some hi spots. I bought some 4x2 for my frame rails last week and have the auto cad lady at work printing me out the Model A front portion of a frame out so I can copy it. I've decided against a dually although I'm staying 8 lug. I appreciate the input and will post some pics up as soon as there is something worth while. I hopefully found a pass side door with the window garnish, that will give some extra door frame for the chop.
I've had time here and there. The roof line is coming along. Still looks like a bag of marbles but believe me it's better. There were some hefty dents, one on the driver side was so deep it split the seam and I could put my fingers through it. I hammer away until I get tired and then take on other things. Did a little door latch work today too.
For the amount of time since my last post I'm bummed more isn't done. However I made good progress the last 2 weeks. Used a hi lift and got the cab in much better shape. Both door gaps are great. I had to cut some reliefs in the upper door opening corners and it helped a ton. I hope these pics come out ok. I removed what was left of the floor and started to channel the body. I couldn't find anyone else's photos of their attempt so I just went after it. I cut into and removed 3" of the toe board 45* angled portion. I have a tube bender and 1" square die so I formed up both sides to fit the frame and body taper. Luck for me my die's outside radius is the same as the cab corners and I will fill them in next. So it was a. 3" channel and 2" net overall. Not too drastic but after sitting in a 5" channel 4" chop I decided to go more mild.
On the parts front I'm doing ok. I traded a 38 cab I got for a screaming deal off to a guy with a 4 link and pan hard bar system with frame mounts, axle brackets, links, air bag brackets, air bags and a tank. All brand new. I know the expense is in the fittings and air comp but I could never build this for what it cost.
Is there anything I'm missing with a rear window drop 3" chop? I've measured and measured and I think the rear portion is good. For the A pillar with the angle I feel like 2" out with achieve a 3" drop. 35/36 guys does that sound right? She's not a perfect cab but she's all I've got and want it to work out. I'm stretching the top, not raking the A pillar.
If it were me doing the top I'd cut the rear window opening out in tact leaving about a 2" lip on all 4 sides. Drop the lid your desired amount then re install the window opening. The way you have it taped out now may leave the top looking fat above the window. It will also give you better rear mirror vision due to the top edge being higher. In other words it will look more in balance. Just my .02, keep up the good work. The Wizzard
I might add that I like that your not leaning back the windshield. If you want to make the top wider the easy way I have an extra top that let you just weld 1 seam across instead of making a strip and 2 seams. It's cut at the cowell and below the rear window. I'm just a little west of you I think. Might even have some door top pieces. The Wizzard
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