Manual trans guys what are you running for Bellhousing/Scatter shield ?

Sorry, this is my first post, I'm just a lurker.....but if it saves you from harm, I'd like to add this. Despite claims of reving the engine too high on upshifts, most clutch explosions occur when the driver puts the transmission into a lower gear at too high of speed, either deliberately or by accident. You're @ 6,000 rpm in 2nd gear and going to grab 3rd, you run over a pot hole, have brain fade whatever.....and you don't get the shift lever into the 3-4 shift plane and you cram it back into 1st. The clutch disk is connected to the input shaft and instantly the input shaft and clutch is accellerated to 10,000+ rpm and you have just exceeded the burst speed of the clutch. Bang!

Most people won't admit that they made a mistake......rather blame the manufacture of the vehicle or the clutch.

Sorry for no intro....just wanted to add that.

Dave (a.k.a) redram18

 

So, what do you do if you have a engine or trans for which a scattersheild isn't available? I'm thinking a T56 for one applicaton. Does anybody offer a 'universal' external kit?

 

1) check out: http://lakewoodindustries.com/
2) find a scatter shield that fits your engine and modify the bolt pattern and bearing retainer pilot hole to fit your trans, add a ring if your bearing retainer is smaller than the bell housing center hole. Make friends with a good machinist.
3) If not for formal competition use.....fabricate a shield similiar to a flex plate sheild required for automatic GM applications that attaches to the bellhousing bolts. It is better than nothing.

I'm logging off before the intro police get me.

 

I don't doubt that it still can happen but I think the nodular flywheels are much better than the old cast grey flywheels from the 60's and I also used the smaller lighter flywheel too. I asked the clutch manufacturer when I bought my clutch set up ( they build many a racing clutch for circle track racers here in the Midwest) when is the last time they had one or heard of one coming apart he said it's been a long time, years he said. But I know they still can and do but like I said this ain't a race car it's a street car that might make a few passes like at the HAMB drags.

 

Russco, I have an old Ansen 2 piece I'd sell if you are still looking for one for your truck...it's dated 1963.

 

Just for info sake....I bought a Quick Time for my 63-1/2 427 Galaxie, and it absolutely would not fit proper. Period....They did give my money back, after much bugging on my part....

 

I'd probably be interested Larry but right now I'm just trying to get my 40 coupe finished.

 

Lakewood bellhousing behind 402 bigblock chevy with a super T10. Wouldnt run withour it.

 

$700 is a bit pricey for a Ford/T56 combo.....

 

just finished my '71 SUPERCHARGED mustang, 351 clevon(4SPD. CONVERSION) waited 3 months and paid $700.oo for a new Lakewood blowproof bell. If you value your legs and parts of that car, spend the money and be safe. Later, Matt.

 

My brother and I built a 65 falcon nostalgia tribute drag car with a 347 stroker and a 671 blower and T10 4 speed we used a stock bell housing but we added a bell housing blanket for added protection. I may do that or make a steel plate for my trans tunnel yet too. I know the potential is still there but, seriously when is the last time you have first hand knowledge of a modern clutch / flywheel explosion in a street car? I have seen one video on YouTube of an LS Camaro doing a rev limited burnout have a clutch come apart.

 

I have a Lakewood behind a 302 sbc that'll rev into orbit. The original bell is hanging on the wall. Cheap insurance. I don't beat on it like back in the day, but still.

 

The Ansen Scatershield is traditional, and works for me.

 

I'd build an external shield that bolts to the bellhousing mounting bolts. We used to build them back in the 60's when we couldn't afford a scattershield, and they perform the same function of protecting your feet. Just needs to cover the sides and top area, so if it blew it can only go down.
Something like this, but with mounting tabs to attach under the bellhousing bolts:

 

That's actually a pretty simple idea, and worth the effort to avoid an incident. Making a steel shield that's shaped to fit the trans tunnel around the bellhousing and just bolted through the floor would protect you as well. Just let the sides hang down lower to protect your feet.

 

My neighbor bought a brand new 66 Mustang with a 271 289 in it next morning there were holes in the hood, floor and his right calf, so those were the old days and it happened a lot back then

 

Cousin in '65-66 had a Chevy Nomad blew the clutch pressure plate throw out bearing thru the floor board and up thru the roof. Injured his foot. Heard a guy say won't happen with today's parts but....well, better safe than sorry.

 

I put a pressure plate through the floor of a 65 mustang back in 1973, missed my passengers left foot by three inches. I have used a scattershield ever since. Using a quick time behind the Cleveland on my 56 f100.

B

 

all it takes is that one time for a spring to fail or the pressure plate or a ring gear to crack . hate to say but a blanket will not stop a flywheel or pressure plate or cover, gears yes as they are smaller and lighter , not 30 pounds , only steel or heavy aluminum plate will as it disapates the kinetic energy as it deforms .

the minimum I would say is look up the sfi specs for a rotary engine car flywheel cover .

also when you build it you want air space between the metal parts and the car body as this allows the metal to have room to deform more ( like tank armor is built ) and expend the energy . remember its harder to cut a board holding it with your hand not supported than when its backed by the bench .

 

I have a "few" of the no-longer-legal, cast STEEL scatter-shields for my Tri-Five style setups. I personally have never experienced a flywheel/clutch explosion, but have witnessed several; the results have NEVER been good. I have thrown the lining off of a couple of clutch discs however. I currently have an R.C. Industries in cast STEEL , another R.C. Industries in aluminum (told it's actually an aluminum-magnesium alloy), and an Ansen cast STEEL unit; all are 2 piece with a bolt-on lower cover, and have the Tri-Five side mount bosses. In high school, around 1968, I had a friend who worked at a local "quickie-cheapie" style car repaint center as sander/prepper-taper. They got a car in from a car lot, and he fell in love with the car, and had to buy it. It was a 1964 Ford Falcon Sprint, an ex-drag car. They painted the car Competition Yellow (it was bright!). It was a "built" 289, Borg Warner 4-speed, 3.90 geared 9 inch with Fords "Positraction", had a fork lift battery in the trunk, traction bars, etc, etc, etc. What stood out most in my mind, was it had a COBRA, cast STEEL scatter-shield (name cast right in) Too much car for him, and he had limited mechanical ability. He does a clutch change, and in putting the HURST shifter linkage back on the transmission, flipped the levers upside down. Takes it out on the street, and gets on it in "first" gear, winds it out, shifts into "second", and blows the entire clutch assembly up. He actually had shifted from SECOND to FIRST, and spun the engine up to more than the rebuilt clutch could take. The COBRA scatter-shield contained the mess, and I helped him get it back together, the right way. Seen headers with the collectors sheared off, firewalls/cowls torn up, windshields busted up, but no serious injuries to the driver. MORAL: if you're going to beat on a manual trans, performance engine car, it really needs a scatter-shield. Butch/56sedandelivery.