Technical how to add leafs to model A spring with loosing my face

Mine is not in a model A but a pick up roadster I'm building with a custom rear suspension. But it is a transverse spring from Speedway. I left the main spring leaf in place and dis-assembled the spring, removed the clips and center bolt, added three new leafs, clips and center bolt all while still bolted to the rear end. Was very easy this way. If you can lift the body high enough to clear the spring just leave it in place , that way you don't have to worry about spreading the spring afterwords. Easy to adjust and add or subtract leafs to get the correct height.

 

I always use a length of chain wrapped loosely around the spring when dismantling one. Sometimes you'll be taking a spring apart that has no clamps which allows the spring, if it so chooses to spin the leaves out kinda like a blender blade. It doesn't last but a millisecond but it can do some damage.

 

I built a spring spreader for my Model A rear spring and use clamps when breaking down or assembling the spring.
Those springs have a tremendous amount of energy when they are stretched to connect to the spring hangers, so an abundance of caution is advised.

 

NO, it puts more stress on the spring and will make things fly potentially,


you only need it to spread the spring to get it off the shackles.

 

I have done the all thread thing a few times.....once it snapped on an A rear spring...

My life flashed before my eyes.

I leave the spring attached to the shackles

 

leave it attached to the shackles,
then undo the ubolts and drop the whole suspension down
then use big clamps on each side of the centerbolt
then pull the bolt and replace with allthread
then loosen the clamps a tad, then the allthread in a step by step small increment process
then with everything loose, I have found you can take the main leaf off the shackles by hand.

This process never lets all the pressure be on the allthread or clamps at one time, or at least for very long.


My question while on the subject, how do you reverse the eyes on the main rear leaf of an A spring. I did the front, but the rear has SO much of a whoop E dooo in it I am leary of bending it backwards..

 

Great info on this thread...

Quick question: Can an A spring stretch to fit on a '35 stock banjo rear?


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Stock "A" spring perch centers are 49-1/2"; while the '35 perch centers are 48". So the spring will be tensioned slightly less than in the stock "A" configuration.

 

I really like HemiDeuce's spring spreader tool. Would like to see more of this so I could build one myself.

 

Spring spreader, remove from car.

Wrap an old blanket or a large beach towel around one end of the spring pack. (not super tight, just wrapped 4 times.)

Remove the nut, spring pack will just jump slightly, completely contained in the beach towel.
After polishing and lubing the leaves, you can assemble the spring with a long threaded rod, nuts on each end...THIS IS when you use the 'C' clamps.
Safe and expedient.

 

On a Model A ,What thread is the thru bolt and where can I get one?

 

3/8-16, snyders
-Pat

 

Spring center bolts are special, not just long bolts like hardware/farm supply stores have.

 

The preload on the Ford springs 28-41 is there so there is no need for a Panhard rod.
When they went to no preload, big rubber bushed spring eyes 42-48 they added Panhard rods front and rear to eliminate side sway.

 

I got my bolts from a spring shop in town here. I had the front and rear main springs eyes reversed and he gave me four bolts of different lengths and hole sizes.

 

THAT WAY !!!!!!!!!!! I've done a number of leaf springs that way and it is safe and simple. Beats the hell out of worrying about leaves flying all over the shop if you don't have a bolt in the middle of them when you let up on the clamps.

 

I took my rear main leaf to the spring shop to reverse along with the front one.
The rear leaf was well worn, so he built a new one to the dimensions of the old one. Cost $150.

 

I saved the three pictures in case I needed to copy it. I really like how it is bolted to the ends of the spring so it can't slip off. great plan.

 

I've been asked to post pictures of the end clamps on my spring spreader.

 

All the center bolts I have seen are fine thread SAE- UNF


Ago

 

Well with that said, I went down and pulled the center bolts out of the box from "snyders ford parts" that I received a couple weeks ago for my upcoming build.
The front is 5/16-18 "official licensed Ford product" Part # A-5345-F Front spring bolt/nut 1928-31
The rear is 3/8-16 "official licensed Ford product" Part # A-5345-R center spring bolt 1928-31 rear
Both marked made in USA

But I agree, I'd rather have the fine thread holding mine together.
-Pat

 

OK, I stand corrected.


Ago