Technical 9 inch Ford rears

What years did the 9 inch come from? Trucks and cars? I need to find a drive-shaft?

 

57-86ish in trucks, cars quit using them around 1979. There were several different yokes, and a few different U joint sizes.

I"m sure that doesn't answer your question. But I don't know what your question is. Are you trying to figure out what to get a driveshaft out of, to fit some 9" rear that you have? If so, you'll want to measure the size of U joint it takes.

 

I have spent hours in salvage yards looking for good drive shafts and every time it ended up cheaper and easier to just have one made. So, you might consider looking for a shop that builds them. That way you have the length and yokes you want and they almost always need balanced anyway. One of the issues with salvage shafts is they tend to move car / trucks around with forklifts and the bend / damage the ones that are still in the cars. I don't know cars very well, but most years on F series trucks and vans have 9 inches in them from the 60s thru the 90s, but you have to check because they can be other than 9 inch.

 

And it will be straight, and balanced too.

 

A lot depends on transmissions slip yoke and u-joint size,rear yoke length and the size of u-joint it takes,a lot of variables!!!! Makes sense to order a new driveshaft!!! JMO , ROY.

 

If its going in that 63 you will be better off going to your drive shaft shop.

 

x5... last one I had built was for a big truck and came in around $700... anything for a car should be much cheaper. Even with the big stuff every shaft we pulled had a slight bend in it. I just used the joints etc. from the junkers and had a truck shop build the new shaft. I broke 2 old ones, but (touch wood) the new one is going good for 2 yrs.

 

if you find one you want DON't buy it. if its been standing in corner.If they are lieing down they don't take a set.Standing up they tend to bow if standing to long.Learned this the hard way. Many years ago i had 5 or 6 new ones built, for different hot rods.ITS the ONLY way to go.think i paid 150.00$ last one was ten years ago for sure. hth bob

 

After Pappy Hough lwft us this is the only guy I have used never any problems 30 minutes from ya

http://www.drivelinenj.com/

 

Ditto, re; have a driveshaft made. Quick, easy, and worth the $$

4TTRUK

 

A good driveshaft shop can get you anything you need no need to junkyard shop at worst might need a crossover u-joint

 

Physics does not work that way.

 

It does, if someone stands all the bent driveshafts in a corner.

 

You make a good point, Sir.

 

I had one made, it is much easier and safer.

 

...or something got stacked against them. Not so sure I'd laugh this one off. I know a case where new cylinder sleeves for a diesel engine got stacked sideways for a couple years, and they were all junk. Went out of round. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it personally either.

 

I was always told to store crankshaft standing up, and to never leave them laying down.

 

One thing on wrecking yard driveshafts that are out of the rig is you don't know what happened to them before they got pulled out of the rig. The yard here move the wrecks around with forklifts that damage as many driveshafts as they leave good.

 

All of the shafts I have had built were in the $150 to $200 range, but sure it depends on the location and the shop. As far as parts do, the cheapest source I have found is buying a truck or van with the parts you want on it. Remove them and haul the remains to a crusher. It always turns out way cheaper than buying from salvage, at least in my area. I figure a 9 inch rear axle is worth $150 to $200 and a drive shaft $50 to $100. If I pull the transmission (maybe another $100) and rims (say $10 to $15 each) I can pay $300 or $400 for a truck, strip it and still get $150 or so at the crusher. If it happens to have an engine core or other parts, so much the better. Anyway, works for me!

 

for info about Ford 9", and what they were in search for: kevinstang.com

 

Physics still does not work that way. Unless or until you apply enough stress and strain to fully surpass both the elastic range, and the plastic range, you will do nothing to permanently disturb the shape of the metal.

All of the previously described scenarios have a different explanation than the one provided.

 

Buy yourself a set of cylinder sleeves and try it. I'm not aware of anything being stacked on top of them.

 

You are entitled to you own opinion, buy not your own laws of physics. Those are non-negotiable.

Being unaware is not conclusive exclusion. Existence is not contingent on acknowledgement.

 

this thread is amazing! to the OP i have run whatever driveline that fits properly! they make combo u-joint to fit damm near anything. i have never been sent packing to find another driveline because they didn't make u-joint for the application.