Projects My 61 f100 302 aod swap !

http://www.porterbuiltfabrication.com/

 

last i looked the were not listing price yet but said it was inline with the chevy stuff. i'd think that by the time you bought everything thing for their front you'd probably be in it $3k or more. alot of money but i guess for guys that don't have equipment and/or fab skills the money it could save you on install makes sense. when you figure most GOOD MII kits are $1550 MINIMUM(thats was/is my sale price on the JW Rod Garage kits) heidt's, fatman, tci,etc figure $2k+. then if you have to have a shop do it for you the install is usually that much or more again. so now you're at $4k or more. the porterbuilt being bolt in and i beleive locates off of some existing spots making it so easy most anyone can do it if you come in under the $4k mark it's not a bad idea. they are doing them coil over based or bagged based.....

i'll shoot some pics of mine when i get the crossmember welded in....

 

What's your current axle ratio? If you've already got a 3.7x gear it won't be worth the cost to change to a higher gear (IMO of course). The OD will already have you in the sweet spot on the highway, and the lower gearing will give you more torque off the line.

 

It's seams guys really like the jag frontend I was not trying to put it down I am sure it will turn out great.

I have about 900 in my front end cross hats,arms,drop spindals,rotors and breaks.I am either going to weld up a end bracket or make a bridge to the frame from the back of the arm on mine befor it's all said and done.

Yea the porter built stuff is great for a guy that like to drill holes and bolt stuff up.

Jake

 

wow you got into your cheap jake and that makes sense. also sounds like you've already looked at improving a couple of the things i don't like with most MII set ups.

i'm all about the cheap and my jag set up was cheap. i got the donor front ps pump and all for $200. by the time i go though and do new bushings, balljoints, etc probably throw another $550 at that so all in i'll be at $750 or so. if you count in all the materials for putting it in, notching, boxing, etc i'm probably gonna skate the grand mark.

i'm actually going to look at a 61 uni either this weekend or first of next week with the thinking of if it's more solid i may drop it on this frame. i'd either push my current big back window body out back on the 61 frame or someone would get a chance at buying the big back window clip. it'd save me a bunch of time. the 62 bbw is RUSTY. the only reason i bought it to save is it was cheap. it needs cab floors,front cab mounts, lower door pillars, steps/backers, and more and thats just to get the "cab" back in order. about $800 worth of metal. if the floors and such in the 61 are better it may happen. i could care less about the big back window honestly but i know alot of people like them. i could probably part the 62 body out for the same or more than the guy wants for the 61(no title and thats a pain in nc).....ken....

 

I'm currently running stock gearing in the rear which I believe is 3.73. Yeah I'm thinking it will good for low end and not bad for highway. I think going to 3.50 ish would not be a big change or worth it too.


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That is damn cheap ! So I know where you got the crossmember and hats from, but the other stuff ?


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Drop spindals breaks 11 in disk from cpp.

I can't rember where I got the arms from but they might be cpp allso.

Jake

 

So this is what I've done so far...... after taking off like ten rolls of tape and wire I managed to get the truck rewired and all I have left is put my radiator in and top dead the motor and should be able to wake her up after a long sleep


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By the way that trans cooler could not have fit any better and it was a junkyard find for 12 bucks! And trans support was free all I bought were the rubber mounts which were 4 bucks and came off a belair.


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Driver side header is a pain in the ass to get in because of the steering box so I have to mess with it a bit before it can go in


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I also had my drive shaft made by coast driveline and gear in ventura ca and man these guys are good they built it for me literally over night. Great customer service as well.


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Going to tow the truck tomorrow and I'm wondering if I need to adjust my kickdown cable on the trans since it's going to be rolling in neutral on the rear tires. Does anyone know if I'm just over thinking it ?


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She's back on the road ! Finally got the aod trans on there. After taking the old one out and ruining a torque converter I'm finally driving it. We'll worth the swap, it cruises so we'll and that 302 has plenty of go in it. My lokar cable was not closing my tv lever all the way so I made a little rig for now until I come up with something better.........don't judge me haha


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Nice feeling to be cruisin again, Good Job!

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before you go M II or jag look into using a crown vic suspension
there are several threads on doing the swap
http://fordification.com/
http://www.ford-trucks.com/

 

because a supension thats 5.5" wider than stock is a great idea? oh and jag and cv are the same amount of work in the end. i can say this with no doubt as i have done several with jag and my buddy did cv. we set our prce to do either right around the same as time/materials it's REAL close.

the cv is NOT BOLT IN like so many like to say. you need to weld crush tubes in the rails where the crossmember bolts in, you need to box the frame where it bolts in, and you need to fab and weld in rear mounts for the lower control arms. it's a NICE set up don't get me wrong on that. if it was closer to the correct 59.5" width i'd be more apt to sing it's praises. but the width limits you to high positive offset wheels of at least 16" diameter. jag is correct width so is the bigger winner to me....

 

I agree with stiff on this one,I have heard a lot about the width issues. I know some people are worried about price but I'm a firm believer in cheap can be expensive sometimes. In your opinion what's easier to install m2 or jag ? I just want it to be simple and clean .


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in my opinon jag is as easy or easier. jag is one piece crossmember. mii is crossmember and top hats that weld in seperatly. jag you do have to make and weld an upper shock mount(i posted an easy solution a few days ago and am going to expand on that soon with another option using the same bracket) where MII it's part of th top hat. the jag does need a small notch on each side of the rear of the crossmember to slide into the ford rails. it took me 15 minutes to do and i over notched and plated instead of notching and letting the weld between crossmember and frame fill the small gap.

a standard mii kit or jag straight to the framrail are both gonna get you around 4-5" of drop. you can get "superlow" mii kits from fatman and i think a coupla others and yes mii dose have the dropped spindle option. you can do spacers on the lower springplate for the jag for another 1" or more or if you want slammed you can do like i did and notch the jag crossmember into the rail. i did 3" notch. 2" would be fine and then you could fine tune via spacing the springplate or cut a coil or two. i did 2" at first and it just didn't hit my goal so i redid everything wanting to make sure i still had the option of MORE haha. at 2" notch all tie rod clearance is fine at 3" it's borderline and i'm doing tie rod notches to be safe that wouldn't have been necessary at 2". my truck set to ride height with 205/70/15 measures 5" off the ground at the rocker. and i still can do the springplate spacers or cut coils should i want more as everything at this point is still stock essentially.

you could also Z the frame with either mii or jag.....

 

Which jag is the best donor for ifs ? And how much will a rebuilt jag hub to hub cost me ? Thanks for all the info by the way.


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I cant remember the years/models that are the best but there is a link out there somewhere that has this info as I've looked it over several times.

 

There is a thread titled "Tech, well sorta, Jag ifs into mid 50's F100". Seach it and on the first or second page is a post that gives the models/years that are best.

 

72-87 xj6, xj12 78-92 xjs.. i think the xjs is still the same through 94-95 but the rack changed in 92-92...

rebuild depends on what all it needs. control arm bushing/balljoint kits are on ebay for around $200. thats fort mid grade balljoints. if you want high end lemforder or however you spell it ball joints then it probablu $300-400 for the same. tie rod ends are $12-25ea. rebuilt racks are $250-300 or the rebuild kits are $50 or so but if all you need is new inner/outer tie rods you'll be ahead. bearings are pretty standard and you should be able to replace all of them for less than $50. i have yet to buy a donor ifs that i needed to buy rotors but maybe i've just been lucky. calipers you can rebuild yourself or loaded rebuilts are $75-100. so it's really a matter of what needs to be replaced and what doesn't. the donor for my neighbors f1 had a rebuilt rack and new upper control arm bushings already. so i'd say low end under a hundred bucks HIGH end maybe $750ish..

a good hint ebay androck auto are 2 GOOD sources for parts for the jag. rock has good prices. alot of times cheaper than i can get them at my local flaps even wh my corporate account and my counter guy works the price for me all he can....

 

Also my speedometer cable isn't hooked up yet so i don't know exact speed. Does anyone know what I need to make it work ? If I'm correct I would think the gear at the end of the cable would have to be replaced but with which one ? Any links or part numbers would help thanks. Truck is a 1961 f100 it previously had the original 3 on the column with a 223 rear end is the original 9 inch rear end


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Now the truck has a 89 aod trans


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is this normal temp for a 302 in 90 degree weather ? Truck has a three row radiator .


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Mine hits right by 200, on cold days its right about there, at 104 degrees in salina for KKOA show it stayed right at the 200 mark too

 

Nice , just making sure also since I'm talking gauges here, how did you get you speedometer to work with your aod ? Thanks by the way


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Aftermarket electronic speedo and GPS sending unit.

 

Sweet ! Any pics of how it looks ? Or a link ? So far I've been using an app on my phone to see watch my speed haha! Thanks


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