I cant seem to find the thread about a 57 Plymouth that was electro stripped in a swimming pool. Anybody help with this? I have a 62 Catalina that I bought from an estate sale. Chassis is done. Body sat out in the weeds for a year so there's a lot of surface rust inside (behind the dash and firewall body mounts etc. Paint is still on the outside. Im not thrilled about spending a lot of time and effort and just leaving this. Blasting will be difficult in a lot of these areas. Molasses will be, well - it'll be a grand scale mess and more maggots than hollywood would know what to do with for a horror movie.... which brings me to electrolysis. Hmmm. Anyone?
Look in the search 57 or 1957 Plymouth convertible resurrection or some thing to that wording He had an old tomato field hauler tub to put it in.
For all those hidden areas with surface rust, what about POR? You can get POR in clear and then topcoat it with primer when it flashes. POR is designed to grab onto surface rust, so perhaps that is the easiest solution.
I did some T bird doors. Used a kids pool. It worked but took a lot of time. Cleaning after sucked. It wont pull anything out of closed seams and pinch welds. I'm sure it has it's uses, but I don't think it worked well for body parts. I wouldn't bother. I'd rather just blast. In the end I blasted inside the doors anyway.
Thanks for the words- I'll look into the POR. If it will stop further rot - that's all I'm concerned about in out of the way places. I'm still curious about electricity and water. Like cutting towards myself I want to do it just because they said not to in cubs and scouts... But that's why we're all not driving Honda's on here isn't it?
Just run with scissors, but make sure you have a sucker in your mouth and your shoes are untied. It will be the same feeling of victory in defiance and easier than de-rusting the places you can't get to.
Thanks Gasser 57. Just spent an evening reading through the entire thing again... Not as much on the tanking as I remembered but still answered my questions. Thanks again. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Yes, POR applied correctly will stop further rot. Here's how: POR is like super glue in that it cures in contact with moisture. Applied over rust, POR sucks the moisture out of the pores of the metal, preventing it from causing additional corrosion, and cures to an impermeable barrier to moisture. That prevents new external moisture from causing problems. There are a few caveats that are not that tough but need to be followed to get the maximum advantage. 1 - POR adheres better to rusty metal (not loose rust) than to shiny metal. If the metal is not rusted it must be roughened as detailed in the POR instructions. 2 - POR over an existing topcoat (i.e., applied over existing paint) is only going to do half the job. It will protect against new moisture, but it will not suck the moisture out of the metal and that is the single best thing POR does. 3 - POR is not UV resistant so it needs a topcoat if exposed to the sun. 4 - POR has strict topcoating rules that must be followed. Either topcoat when it flashes, or use the special POR topcoating primer. On your inner body panels, no need to worry about topcoating or UV exposure, perhaps. The biggest mistake folks make is forgetting this product is Paint Over Rust and not Paint Over Paint or Paint Over Shiny Metal.
http://www.por15.com/ Others have used this, with good results: http://www.rustbullet.com/ Properly applied, as in EXACTLY to the instructions, these coatings work very well.
I have a tub of oxalic acid in the shop that I use to dissolve rust. If I have the time EVERYTHING goes in there for a day or two before blasting. Going from memory I think you need 2% oxalic acid to water by weight. I got mine (and a lot of baking soda to keep around in case I need to neutralize it) from Van Dyke's Taxidermy
Thanks for all the notes. If this snow begins to back off a bit then I'm looking forward to getting a few things done on this.
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