best way to transport a flathead

I am buying a 2 flatheads and want input on the way others have transported them?

One has no trans, other one does...

Strap to a pallet?
Set on an old tire?
Lay her down in the bed of the truck an hope for the best?

Also how do you all store the flatty once in the shop?

Thanks...



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Blocks of wood and tie down straps work ok. Or build a support for it on a pallet, with a couple short 2x8s or something, for the oil pan rail to rest on. A tire worked in the old days...before we had good brakes in our pickup trucks

 

I am pretty sure you can buy big plastic containers specifically made for shipping engines.
That way it's all contained on all 4 sides and is protected. This looks good for the price.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Exportable-...866?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19e7097fea

 

I have a friend of mine who transported a hemi in the back of his truck.... i Can't tell you how he had it strapped down but the result was a taco shaped tailgate!

make sure they are supported and tied down in such a way that if the supports come out the straps can't slip off! I like to wrap them around the exhaust manifolds if possible.

 

putting all the weight of the motor on the oilpan is a sure way of getting the seals and gaskets to leak....ask me how I know. IF you plan on moving a motor with it sitting on the pan, plan on replacing all the seals and gaskets...oil pans are not meant to support that kind of weight.

 

Depends on if you are moving them yourself or if you are having them shipped. Old tire in the back of a truck and strapped down if you are just moving them yourself.

 

Drain the oil for sure before transporting and remove carb and distributor at least. If brute force and ignorance will be used in loading and unloading, removing heads, intake, and flywheel leaves a lump that 2 people can manhandle pretty easily. Leave on exhausts...those are the handles!
Early, late, how complete, etc. influence best way to store them.

 

Bruce, why remove carb, etc? "brute force and ignorance"... well is that not part of every car project no matter the scale.

I will be moving these myself with my truck and flatbed trailer. Have engine hoist at both ends of the journey... only traveling 100 miles RT. I think pallet and blocks is best...

Thanks for all the responses so far.

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Remove the carb and other fragile parts so they're out of the way, and safe.

 

Strap it to a pallet,it won't turn over like it could sitting on tires,,ask me how I know that pearl of wisdom! HRP

 

thanks guys..

quick question, anyone ID this year flatty... thinking '46-48... one of the motors I am getting. she runs great too.

I know the other one is a '53 as it is sitting in the car still.

 

The old tire and strong straps always worked for me, brought home a heavy 440 big block that way... just be carful on your turns.

 

Another vote for strapping to a pallet.Years ago, a buddy was hauling a small block Chevy in the back, right next to the tailgate, of his pickup. Took off on a hill too fast and the motor rolled over and banged the tailgate open and ended up as a navigation hazard until he could get help loading it back up.

 

Tire/tie down straps work well, but use a pallet if you can get your hands on one.

 

Unless you are well organized and equipped and not a primitive hunter-gatherer like me, something is going to go wrong and roll or fall. Carb and distributor will go CRUNCH.
Where do you think all those broken Strombergs come from?

 

Did you get the welder generator too? Looks like a Hobart. They make a good power source.

 

no just motor... have a generator already.

 

I store them on 4x4s and moving dollies from HF so I can push them around when needed. Easy and cheap. Way heavier than the dollies are rated for but I haven't broken one yet.

 

I've always used several old tires for the engine(s) to lay on and limit fore/aft movement in the pickup bed or trailer, then ratchet straps to prevent any rocking and additional movement. I'll use an engine cradle if on hand, but will still use the old tires and quality straps to prevent movement and damage. Never any broken distributors, carbs, manifolds, or smashed oil pans.

 

On that engine...the A marked head would be for a prewar 24 stud, though you cannot trust any removable part to ID because essentially everything can interchange on 24 stud engines.
If '46-8, common both as original and as replacement block, you should see a fairly big 59 atop the bell. If prewar we have to look at front, rear, and lower sides of block, need a good pic of top of block, and also need to look at cylinder decks to see if 221 or 239...they can only be decoded from their actual characteristics.
Also...since ford serials normally were on trans casting, if this engine was originally sold by Ford as a transmission-less industrial engine rather than being yanked from a car, it will likely have a datable serial number stamped on top of block manifold area or even an ID plate.

 

Bruse thanks for the info. Any idea what this running flatty is worth..

I may buy the entire unit, just talked with seller he wants $1k to roll the entire thing away. $700 for flathead alone..

Seller just called, 59 on bell and C15733 above it

Thanks,

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