Can someone please get me the measurements of their trunk opening on a 28-9 coupe. From corner to corner in an X and from top filler piece to the lil tail panel. Not from the drip rail but the actual corner. Also a measurement from the drivers door latch pocket to the passenger. I'd really appreciate it.
I know there is another thread on here with these dimensions already.. I think maybe Carter posted the information? Search for it and you will find it!
There might be some differences from car to car, so I'm wondering what does you trunk lid measure or how does it fit?
I assembled my roadster rear end from brookville panels, I just made sure it was all diagonally square every way I could think to measure it.. but then I compared it against the measurements from whoever (I honestly think it was Carter.. but i may be wrong..) posted what their original car was and mine was exactly the same. I know Model A (28/29) roadster door opening is 550mm from cowl to quarter.. I couldn't say what a decklid opening is though without measuring myself and i'm not around the car at the moment.. I'll see if i can dig up the other thread. Really though, as long as its diagonally square it should fit. I do know that I had to narrow the brookeville top rain gutter piece by 5mm to make it fit though..
When i assembled my roadster body (I had an original cowl and doors and used brookville subrails and whole rear end, in pieces of course..) i had the cowl bolted down, i built the subrails on a flat fabrication table but then had to cut and pinch the front because the body tapers in at the front and rear, so i'd suggest building the subrails with the cowl at the same time. Where the subrails first kick up at the front, from the point of that kick up to the cowl where the two bolts go through, should be a 10mm gap. I'd hang your doors as well and that will help line it up. I knew what the gap was so i set it to that as my doors weren't ready to hang at that stage. Also keep in mind the quarters MAY be slightly different in length, i found mine were 8mm apart so i utilized the door overlap to hide 4mm and then had the back end 4mm out, although it can still be fully diagonally squared up regardless. No one will pick 4mm out at the rear, and you can hide it with the doors if need be. Just make sure they close nice and put the striker plates on while your at it. I ended up having to put one striker on the inside, and one on the outside of the quarter panel door jamb because of the length difference. Can post some pics if need be. Just get the subrails in and squared up first with the cowl, then hang the doors and then the quarters. Thats my advice. If you need any help don't hesitate to ask.
The Jalopy Journal
