Okay Carl - I'm taking a chance with yah . . . tell me this makes me a bad person? Don't I do enough 'true' flatheads . . . can't a guy have some 'Hemi Fun'?
That is just sick. I want one! To the OP, get the books by ol'Ron and John Lawson form the Ford Barn on building flat heads. Very good practical info in both. --louis
The 52 and 53 flatties were the best ones. I drove them when they were new and they didn't over heat. Will he give you the transmission and clutch and emergency brake setup. That tranny should be a toploader and the clutches are strong. If the engine has no cracks then all you need to do is freshen it up. It will go another 40 years, just make sure you have a good radiator, heat is a flattie's enemy.
Another $.02 harleyjohnis right on. Also, I would add headders,it helps with heat dissipation,and I run my 51? Merc with 160 degree thermostats, with stock heads, with no problems, even without a fan! As long as you don't run too slow for too long in summer. Also, the more you build it up, higher compression etc the hotter it gets.
Anything to remove heat, I live 7200 ft above sea level. Carburetors don't like it here. Most of the 3 carb models only have the center one working. Well, what ever melts your butter.
I would like to align myself with these two comments. If ya get it ya get it, if ya don't you will have more money in your pocket, but poorer for missing the experience.
Thanks for all the info, I've ordered the Tex Smith flathead book already. I'll look for the others. Are the 52-53 engines really the best? Why? Bored, and Frozen, those are some engines, I somehow doubt either is in my future unfortunately. 19fordy thanks for the real world pics.
My 2 cents....I think if you want to be a hot rodder , you have experience a flathead at least once in your life time. Nothing else like it. I have one on a stand I built just for it, start it up every now and then just to hear it run.Makes my day. Go for it.
1953 was the last year you could get the flathead in the US. The thought process is that by then, the "bugs" had all been worked out by Ford and all their previous issues had since been fixed. Ford basically had 21 years to fix problems with it before stopping production.
There are a few opinions about the 'best year' - to me it is all about what you have at your disposal and what you're building. This is not to say that you can't build an earlier 21 stud variant - they are just a lot trickier to build and harder to find parts for. Any 39-53 flathead that is in good shape is a great place to start! If you have a decent block, then you have what you need to build many different styles of flathead. Couple comments: a) 39 - 48: To me they are a bit more 'traditional' looking in my mind in that they have the integral cast iron bell-housings, the heads have the water outlets in the middle, distributor is up front, etc.. Truth be told, I like these years the best for most of what I do - accept for OHV conversion stuff. b) 49 - 53: The last generation of flathead IS the most versatile and easier to come up with special transmission combinations (due to the bolt-on bell housing). I don't think the 49-53 looks as nice (but that is just me). Maybe it is the water pumps? BUT: Outside of the bell-housing, you can make a 49-53 look like a 39-48 anyway (early timing cover, early water pumps, cam thrust changed, etc). So really - it is a moot point. If you have a good block - go for it and don't waste time listening to the endless opinions out there. The two books by 'McNichols' are also good stuff as is the 'Flathead Guide of Death' that I believe HotRod of Street Rodder put together a few years ago. Best of luck - check back for any help you need. B&S
Cool motors... I would advise you to enjoy running it simple, as in just throw a 2 carb intake, carbs and go. Once you start rebuilding and going crazy, $$$$$. And once you get your first vintage speed part, well game over because you became addicted. They're a fun put- put motor and a fun cruiser when set up right...
having the only flathead at the car shows is a total turn on....cool factor out weighs any belly button SBC...........
I have copied this from over at the Barn. 4tford has posted the following. Once again with permission of the Author Ron Holleran aka Ol'Ron I have his book Flathead book "Nostalgia" in stock. This is a printed copy same as the original except spiral wound. Cost including postage is $28.00 to USA , $24.25 to Canada and $35.25 to the rest of the world. paypal to me email address is fine but do not forget your postal address is needed as well. I will be shipping once a week. If using a postal money order it must be the ORANGE one. The green one is no good outside USA. Please contact me by email before sending any money. For info please email me at [email protected] JWL's book Flathead Facts can be purchased at http://www.flatheadv8.org/jwl.htm
In 1949 ford put the distributor on the right front side of the engine and certain years had hardened valve seats. ( I ran Amoco white gas, it was unleaded and I never had a problem) The 52's and 53's had a few more HP. I think 10, Merc had a different crank and had another 15 hp, so a Merc had 125 hp and the late fords had 110. Flatties always ran hot, and Ford had been working on cooling. I really think the 52's and 3's were the best ford flatties.
This guy has lot of parts and knows his stuff, There is a lot of technical info on his site. I would recommend anyone who runs flatheads check him out. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_specs-90to125late.htm This chart has the information on the newer flathead engines.
One problem with the later (52 - 53) engines is they stopped using hard seats in many of them. Adds expense to the build if you have to install hard seats in the exhaust.
FlatJack is correct - and I would recommend hardseats in at least the exhausts. The flathead valve train is one of the areas that requires experience and the right tools/equipment to do it right. Many machine shops do not have the big guide-bore mandrels that SHOULD be used to center the valve seat cutters - and most do not have machines big enough to put the whole block into them. So - they fall back on just putting a 11/32 mandrel in a used guide and go from there. This is not to say that this can't work - just a bit less accurate/true in the context of the seat versus the guide bore. If you're going to have a machine shop do your work - make sure you ask them about flatheads - learn about their experience and also if they have the equipment, knowledge and CARE to do it right. You can always ping the HAMB and ask questions - lots of guys here have been down this path. B&S
a good machine shop is my problem not many around where I live finding one that knows about flathead's is most likely not going to happen. too many who handle nothing but SBC/BBC or 302/351w engines these guys would more then likely screw up a flathead
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