Guys I'm about to shorten my drive shaft.. I understand that I need to check this when I have the shortest distance between rear end and gear box. How much margin should I have before the front yoke bottoms out? Is a 1/4 inch too little? Thanks in advance Speedy Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Hate to highjack, but what would be the maximum length of front yoke coming out of the gearbox that you would find acceptable?
Ok, another question.. Since I bougth the car with an unfinished engine swap. I have checked around and it seems it lacks the spacer plate between engine and gearbox. Can I run it without the spacer plate? It definitely lacks the inspection plate in the bottom so I need that one at least. My hair is prolly gonna turn even more grey, if possible, with this car Speedy
You should run the plate. It's there as a 'block saver' if anything gets into the bell so it can't get wedged between the block and the flywheel and break the block...
Speedchop......I'm presumeing you are running a SBF as thats whats usually in front of a C4. Yes you do DEFINITELY need the steel plate between Block and Trans. It acts as a locator for your starter motor as well as covers most of the front flexiplate area, stopping stones and stuff getting in there as previously stated. the bottom piece is removable to get to torque convertor bolts. Beware when buying one of these plates as there are at least 3 different ones that I am aware of and probably more. 1/ early 5 bolt bellhousing. 2/ 6 bolt small bellhousing. 3/ 6 bolt large bellhousing. (which houses a bigger diameter flexiplate,hence needing the starter locating further out. A trap sometimes occurs when a large bellhousing is tried to be used with a small flexiplate.......the starter won't mesh in the F/P.)
Thought so.. Crap! Yep, its mated to a 289... I sorta hoped that I wouldn't have to split the engine/trans. Anyway, thanks for the input!! I have to fix the drive shaft as well. Currently I have the old drive shaft (which I found out recently) so I need a weld in yoke plus u-joint and a slip for the C4. Does anyone know of one good shop where I can source it all? Preferably in LA. Since I'm in Sweden I'd like to ship once Thanks Speedy Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Ok, I need to find out what I have then. I also read that there are different C4s and two types of well, flywheel or flexplate.. The bugger with the starter teeth. Speedy Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Speedchop, Ford made two different flexplates. The 157 is typically used on small (289/302) motors and the 164 is used on 351/C motors. There are also two versions of C4s: pan fill and cases fill. make sure your bell housing is made for the pan or case fill. also the input shaft changed from some of the earlier 24/26 spline to the more common "newer" version with 26 splines. My trans guy Dana Sniff ([email protected]) is a top tech on these and builds one of the best racing C4s I've run into. John Hildebrand
Ok thanks. See if can pop some photos and maybe, if I'm lucky, we might be able to id whatever I'm running Speedy Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Don't get caught out here either folks. There is at least 3 different diameter flexi plates to fit on the back of a SMF,and amongst these 3 different balance weight choices. 26oz,50oz, and 0oz. You are lucky. youve got a 289 because it should have a 157 tooth one
A lot of C-4 info here: http://oldeconolines.com/index.php?...:monster-c4-thread-backup&catid=2:c4&Itemid=3 Ed
Thanks again for the input! I did some diggin around today and here is what I found out so far. The box is completely new (or refurbd) from Performance Automatic. Its a super streeter with street n strip valvebody, 26 spline input shaft, pro shift servo, deep alu pan and it features a case fill... It does not have the tapered (towards the bellhousing) case body. I also noticed that I have the spacer plate.. But not the inspection cover. Now I only have to find out what bell and flexplate Im running. Its a bit of a nightmare to do a tooth count its prolly a 157 tooth flexplate but Id like to be sure before buying a starter.. Any simple ways of figuring out while the driveline is still in the car?? Thanks Speedy Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Hmm, I crawled all over the friggin bellhousing tonight without luck. I didnt find the numbers. It is certainly tight... I'll give it another go tomorrow! Speedy Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
More C4 info: http://www.pigseye.com/sadie/trans/c4.htm C4 bellhousing identification is those that are 5-7/8-inch deep use 157-tooth flexplates, and those that are 6-1/4-inches deep are the larger 164-tooth flexplate. Picture of numbers.
Phew.. after a lot of checking I've come across something that at least looks like what I have.. problem is that I cant access the cast numbers so I dont know for sure. Only prob is that I can identify it (by comparing pictures of the ribs etc) as a "Bellhousing Ford Mustang V6 82/86 aluminum E2AP-7976-CA 164 tooth C4". Whats up with this?? Are they interchangeable or am I far out Sorry for the noob Q:s but a friend (who is into Chevys) stated that it might be a challenge with Ford This is one of the things with taking over a project I guess. Speedy
Hmm, did the tideous tooth count and it's a 164. Would anyone know which starter to use?? Can I use any 2 bolted starter for a 164 tooth flexplate or would that just be too simple Thanks/ Jonas
I have swapped a starter from a 164 tooth c-4 to the aod trans when I swapped. It works fine. I don't if this helps at all.
Thanks! I just thought I'd try and check before buying a starter... I'm still a bit pussled about the bell. Cheers Speedy Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!