'59 Ford F100 horrible handling problems!

I have a '59 F100 with a '67 289 and C4 auto that we did quite a bit of work on. I bought a 2.5" dropped front axle. Installed that with new tie rod ends and u-bolts. Had to relocate shocks. Installed new shocks. Also bought aftermarket front disc brake kit with power booster. Lowered rear by removing spring leaves and also installed new shocks. Also installed four new 8.20 by 15 Firestone wide white bias ply tires.

To say this truck drives horribly is a huge understatement. Of the 350+ vehicles I have ever owned this is by far the worst-driving vehicle. It has terrible bump steer and is all over the road. I need help! One big concern is the hollow drag link. Seems very flexy. Another poss issue is front wheels re splayed out. No adjustment. Kingpins are not worn out. Another concern is the alignment of the Pittman arm/drag link. I dunno what to to do with this thing. I don't believe it is all in the tires. I have had plenty of cars with new bias ply tires that drove fine. This thing is all over the road. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

 

Hollow drag link?

There are several things that could cause the problem,,toe in,worn linkage.

How about a few photos? HRP

 

dropped axles require raised steering arms so your drag link is parallel to the ground.

what is "front wheels splayed out"?

 

No caster/camber adjustment. Need to bend axle so wheels aren't closer together at top than bottom.

 

No adjustment?,,that's probably a big part of the problem. HRP

 

new axle or used?

tube or I beam?

do you have the correct spindles for the axle?

did you put the spindles in upside down?

 

New axle. I-beam. Not that I know of??

 

Isn't the adjustment in the draglink? I had bump steer badly and put caster shims under springs onto axle pad and cleared it right up.


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Can adjust camber by shimming but cannot adjust camber any way other than bending the axle.

 

You should be able to adjust the caster. HRP

 

How did the tie rod ends fit the drag link? Are they all the way in or out of it? There is something amiss if there is no way to align it? Are you sure this is the correct drag link?


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It's all stock other than dropped axle (2.5") and relocated shocks. We will bend the drag link to get it parallel to the ground and shim. Also may need to bend the axle. I appreciate everyone's help!

 

Why would you have to bend the drag link?,,is there interference? HRP

 

After dropping axle, drag link is no longer parallel to the ground. Hence the need to bend.

 

Did you bend the steering arm so the drag link is parallel to the frame?
before


after




Remove steering arm, heat with torch, bend to desired angle, let it cool on it's own........

 

More info here.......


http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?do=discuss&group=&discussionid=16547

 

No. You don't understand. The attachments points are what matters. You can bend it into a Z (please don't) and it makes no difference. Front ends require a lot of thinking, have the pride to stick with the learning process. Expect to have 130 hours in learning and in putting the plan together. Split about 115/15.

Post pics and we can (probably) edit them with arrows and the like, to show what you need to do.

Camber is *not* your problem. Running several degrees positive is just fine.

 

That will solve nothing. Got to bend the steering arm.

 

Without pics this discussion is useless

 

mzweig, what is your toe adjusted to?

 

The wheel splay comment has me thinking that you have the spindles on backwards. Either that or the axle wasn't dropped properly?

 

Actually the ridiculously high "study times" were for understanding IFS, my apologies.

 

Who's axle are you using? Maybe they some answers for you. ..?

 

thats my guess, he said splayed out so maybe they are flipped and wrong side

 

the drag link needs to be on the same plane as the rear portion of the spring. the only way to change the camber is to bend the axle,, do not start there. that would be the LAST thing I would check. How many degrees caster do you think you have?
Sometimes, if you also removed leaves, you will have to raise steering box, and move it forward an inch or two. The picture of the bent steering arm gets you on the correct trail, sometimes you just can't bend it down enuff to get drag link parallel with back part of spring.

 

what the heck are you saying?

 

there is only ONE steering arm that needs to be bent down, you would not raise it to get drag link parallel. When you bend it down it hits the shock, that's why you have to reposition the shock.

 

Did you happen to get a CHEVY PU axle by mistake? kingpin inclination would be quite a bit different.

 

It's the drag link issue.

 

Its where the drag link connects, at the front, that's the issue.!