I've done 2 model a's and my 34 this way. Grind the flange off, plasma cut two new flanges . I weld on the outside of the frame for stiffness and smooth it all out .. Then bolt one on the inside, slide the gear box into the flanges and tack weld It to the inner, make sure it's where you want it so it clears everything pull it back apart and weld it up Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Red's headers makes a header that goes up and over the box. I have them in my sedan and it fit perfectly. I don't have a photo of mine, but the attached photo looks the same. When I researched it some people said the Red's didn't fit but it worked for me.
Great timing for this post! You can sure run out room quick around the steering box. So when you weld the new flange on what's your process? Can I get the box housing nice and hot with an O/A then burn it on with a 220 mig w/shielding gas set to kill? Is the mig a no-no for something like this? I always wondered what hot rodders did historically when it came to steering box mods. Posted using my dang ol' telephonamajig...
my process.... well its probably not up to everyones standards but it works great for me. i gut the box. i take the gears and bearings out of it, pull the outter seal. then i bead blast the hell out of it. all i do is use a small burnsomatic to heat the box up.. then i use a 220 mig cranked up to about 24v and approx 315 wire speed and i burn it in nice and hot, pushing the weld so it burns deeper in, then i jsut let it cool naturally. i have done several boxes like this and i have never had one fail or crack.. thats why i alwso weld the flange on the outside of the frame. it stiffens the hell out of it. i have also done a few that wanted no bolts or anything on the out side. so i used 1/2 weld head studs on the inside of the frame rail, then bolted the box on, no problem like i said, this may not be the correct way, but i have no trouble at all and i feel safe with it.
Removing the flange and a few other minor tweeks is the way to go. You can use the 3 studs in the sector shaft housing to re-mount the box to the frame. Other steps are shown in my album. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=17343
I also use a 36 style manifold .. It's the most clearance and it's the easiest to hook up your own exhaust Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
You guys all have your boxes very far forward compared to mine. No issues with clearance when pushed back far enough. Please excuse the oily mess... my pressure line is weeping Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
It does have its advantages! Although it may only work with the f 100 box Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Seems like it would push a stock A column too far back toward the seat and too close to the pedals. If it worked in your case, that's cool. I like the white and green, that's classy!
I have also seen cars with the steering box moved on top of the rail. But it looks kind of klunky and moves the steering wheel down towards the seat minimizing leg room.
Cars been on the road for over 21 years now... I had no fitment issue. 39 pedals... stock seat fits like any 28... If you are over 5 ft 9 don't expect to be comfortable lol Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I wanted to make sure that folks saw the pictures as they provide advice, so I unscrambled the url and took the pictures that I thought were relevant from his gallery. I'm going to add a label to each picture, so that he can refer to them if he needs to. Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Picture 5 Picture 6 Picture 7
It might help to move engine forward if you could with an 8ba.I have my mount 5 1/4 " from radiator hole. I have not welded it.This is a great thread as I am at the same point with exhaust and F1.
Yeah I agree on motor position. it doesn't look like he has his center x member setup yet. I use a 32 x member and wishbone with the 39 trans mated to a 32 mount. Basically this setup aligns your motor position. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Thanks nevala for getting my pics on . I was having problems getting them to show. On that motor position. Well the stock rear end was in place. That kinda of set where my motor landed. The trans mount that goes between the frame rails is just layed in there. I have a jack hold the trans up (to level the top of the carb) and centered. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
In my case I needed the steering box in the stock a frame hole. I am running a 36 dash in my slant with a 39 column. You can run the electronics on the end of the f1 box just like the earlier models. Then all your lights work off the center steering cap. The 36 drop bolts up perfect and the column lock works. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Ok. I started this thread on a truck I was working on. I working on another av8 now. Thought I would try a cross steer setup on this build. I'm a bit unsure on a few things. I think the column is out of a 35 ford pickup? ? my thought was to modify the tube that goes over the shafts up to the steering wheel. I saw it done on here I think?? Anyway...the pitman arm off the box looks steep. But my thoughts are it must of been that way on the original car it came it. Anything to worry about seeing the mock up?
Any reason why I can't cut the tube in two parts and support both ends and leave the shaft by the head exposed?
Yep,it's tight,but doable. F-1 box,cut off flange and made a new one,cut some of the sector tube off also. The header has a few hours of mods to get around the box. Fits right between peddles,also shortened steering shaft by 4 inches,was a hassle but works great.
Bader2. ..can you send me a pic of your pitman arm off your box. I'm wonder if I need to bend mine fir the end to be parallel to the ground?
You'll never get it parallel to ground,don't worry about it,the suspension doesn't move enough to worry about bump steer!
On the engine front length...IF you are willing to change out the cam you can convert whole front of 8BA to early style with substantial saving of space...if engine is going to be rebuilt anyway, cam change is essentially free and the early distributor is likely to be cheaper than getting a decent conversion for the 8BA. As a historical note, some of the early circa 1950 publications on Av8 use the stock box, and all of those just built a box on frame to shove it outboard to suit. Flange re-education is a lot cleaner.
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