Guys, finally got my flathead running. A good pal and Flathead guru had helped me a lot last year but passed away of a heart attack over the summer. In our many lengthy discussions he told me that I needed to go through a sequence to retorque the heads once I got the car running. I made note of it, but can't find the note anywhere. It went something like this. Fire the engine up and let it get to operating temp, then torque to XX lb. ft. Let cool completely and do the same procedure two more times, increasing the lb. ft. each time. As I recall, the final torque should be around 55 lb. ft. It's an 8BA with Offy aluminum heads and fiber gaskets. My dad built the engine several years ago but he has also passed and I don't know what he torqued the heads to when he put it together. Any help is appreciated! My '27 T Roadster build: www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383
Just for future reference and in case anyone else needs it, you can find torque sequences and lb. ft. here, but not the procedure I'm asking about. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_cylinderhead_torque-specs.htm My '27 T Roadster build: www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383
Daddio, there are a few threads on what you are asking. But they will differ. Personally I re-torque after the engine has been run to temp then allowed to cool. Then do it again after a few hundred miles or so.
Thanks Saxon. I was searching from my phone (HAMB app) and it doesn't work too well. I think that this is one of those "no one right way to do it" things, but I'll search for other threads now that I'm at my PC. I'll gather all the info I can and try to make a good decision from there.
Found the following on this thread: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=9380390 Sounds pretty damn good to me.
More relevant info here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=840358&highlight=flathead+torque
I torque them to 50 and it usually takes about three cycles to maintain the 50 lb torque warm her up let her cool retorque ect ect ect till she maintains the 50 lb torque, sequences are available all over but I use the two middle and a circular sequence after the middle two I also use copper coat on the gaskets and use Chevy GM Pipe Sealant part #12346004 on the studs or bolts the best stuff I have found over the years.......
I did an experiment on torquing a while back. I did the full torque sequence on the engine stand. 25#, 35# and finally 45# Then I immediately went around the pattern again at 45# and found quite a few moved again. I did that a second time and only a few moved. Third time all clicked at 45# and none moved.
Carl, thank you! That's the first hand information I was seeking! Eric, will do brother! Flatcat, considering how many bolts hold the heads in place I'm not surprised. Did you retorque them after you fired it? My '27 T Roadster build: www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383
I do it the way flatcat said... start lower, work your way up, go around till all bolts click. Than i run motor and let it get to temp, let it cool down and check torque again... than Im usually done with it, lol
That's what I've done as well. Went around the heads several times starting at 35 lbs, stepping up 5 lbs each time until I got to 50. Came in to grab the wife and have her help me. Report soon. My '27 T Roadster build: www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383
LMAO, nah just looking for the very specifics that Carl provided. And I DO appreciate your input, thank you! My '27 T Roadster build: www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383
Just a side note. You do not want to use copper spray or copper gaskets with aluminum heads. Use composite gaskets and perm2 spray. Look it up.
Thanks, great info! My '27 T Roadster build: www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383
No matter which you choose to follow, only use a QUALITY torque wrench! I can't emphasize that enough. The deck is only 5/8" thick, ripping threads out of the block can happen. 3blap.
I might add that if the studs have sealant or anti-sieze the torque values with be effected. I think you have not replaced the studs so that may be a mute point. Torque them down snug and revisit them later. It not a rocket ship. . Enjoy your ford.
Thanks again man. I finished my 3rd head/cool/torque cycle about 30 minutes ago. I think it's pretty good at this point but will still revisit it after 50, 100, 500 miles to be certain. When my dad built it 15 years ago he used ARP head studs and ARP nuts. I assume that he used some sort of sealant... HOWEVER.... I still see a tiny amount of water weeping up between the head stud and the bolt at two locations. Any thoughts? It's not enough to create a pool as it sort of evaporates as quickly as it appears, but it can be seen under close examination. All other leaks have stopped and I'll be cleaning my heads tomorrow with CLR and a toothbrush to get the ugly crap off of them. What I did today... <iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/nzodfqkN1iE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Daddio, first off funny vid. Sounds great! I also for some reason thought this was a mordoor. Well at anyrate. You might get some weeping at first but it should stop over time. I guess you could ask; gasket and sealant used (certainely copper stray or a copper gasket would not cause this issue, as that is a metal/chemical reaction that takes time). But i dont think it is a head gasket issue but a head stud issue. You could add some perm2 and a washer on the ones weeping or give it some time. Probably one of the stubs leaking a little. I guess if it gets bad you may want to either remove it or tighten into the block some. If you didnt remove the studs then the sealant shouldnt be an issue on torque values.
Sure do appreciate all of your help! I think I'll run it for a while and see what happens. If it doesn't improve or gets worse (unlikely) I'll attack it then. Cam is seasoned now and I'm an oil change away from driving around the block! Once it's reliable I'll put my dual master cylinder in and lower it with Fat Man uprights, Aerostar coils, blocks and pull a few leaves. I may have to notch the frame and driveshaft tunnel, but that's a discussion for another thread. Oh yeah, I have to cut my real 16" Hollywood flippers and weld them to my stock '50 hupcaps, straighten and polish my trim rings.... never mind.
No way Max, YOU put it there so it like famous or something! Besides, if I take it off and pull the carbs in five years I'll remember which one has the choke disabled. Yes, I'll remove it, LOL. Guys, I can not recommended Uncle Max's carburetor service highly enough. He consulted with me, asked what the internals were, what type of driving I do, elevation I live at and more. These carbs needed ZERO adjusting. Excellent service, quick responses, great pricing. Buy from, and have your carbs serviced by Uncle Max, the best in the business! You can reach the carburetor God here: http://97-express.com My '27 T Roadster build: www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383
In my second post I put Max VanPelts page with the following torque sequence. My '27 T Roadster build: www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383
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