Could you post up the parts and numbers for the Lincoln brakes. I've seen the post on here but it didn't say anything about Buick or Cadillac wheel cylinders.
Heres a little project that was completed last summer. It was a good excuse for a tech piece but it is only now that I've got round to writing it up. I've always been stuck with what to do with the rear number plate on the '36. I've had it on the original upstand from the rear light which I got fed up of people walking into it and bending the corner over plus it looked rubbish. In frustration I moved it to the rear bumper with the aid of double sided tape! Not the best, as again it got bent up through leaning over to get items in and out of the boot plus it covered up the curve of the bumper, but thats the way it stayed for about 2 years. I didn't really want it swinging or hanging or even bolted with a heavy frame. I'd always liked plates behind glass but could never bring myself to take a saw to the back panel. After seeing how my dad's plate behind glass came out on the Pontiac and the fact that his mk.2 version what be alot better, I thought what the hell lets do it. First thing was to work out the shape, size and location. The main inspiration was Vern Simons Roadster as the pictures can be seen taped to the car. The template shown is the final position and size. The template ended up slightly smaller overall than the plate itself, about the size of the letters themselves with large radius corners and mounted low in the rear panel. One of hardest parts was making sure it was square and straight in the panel. If it was wonky after cutting everyone would know about it! Now to take a 3" hole saw to the back of the car. It took a few moments to gain the courage to do this. And join up the dots. Cutting the plate hole exposed the old spare wheel brace. This had to come out as it would be in the way. After clean up this is what I was left with. With the old plate removed it was already looking better especially being able to view the bumper properly again. Onto the plate box now. First a MDF pattern was made of the plate opening. This would then be used to make the mounting lip for the plate box. Its made from 1" wide strap but this won't be the tunnel depth as you'll see later on. The notch in the template is so the strap can be welded together without the wood burning underneath the weld causing problems. Next up is the front half of the plate box. This is the size of the overall plate itself as the plate will sit inside this. A hole is replicated in the panel the same as the lip which is the same as the hole in the car. Finally a return lip is added using another former. The box half is then welded to the strap lip. The back half of the plate box is now made. The same process as the front just without the plate hole in it. Four bolts are now welded to the front half to act as captive fixings. when fitted to the car, with the the removal of four nuts, the back of the box will slide off giving complete access to the plate, glass and lighting. Now a piece of glass can be cut to size to fit the box. Toughened glass was used as its much more forgiving to flexing than other types of glass. Now its time to fit the box to the car. The area around the hole was cleaned back. This is the clever bit. Glass is dead flat and doesn't bend. The back panel of the car curves every which way but straight. Now I should say at his stage that the idea was to just have the number plate behind glass, 40's style not tunneled into the depths of the boot 6". The front half of the plate box is fitted from the back with the lip coming through. Now you can put the glass/plate as close to surface of the panel as possible while still having a dead flat surface, indepentant of the outer panel, for the glass to sit on.
The excess lip is ground back leaving a perfect concour to the panel with the least amount of set back. The frame can now be welded in permanently. I wanted the plate to be lit at night. Not because I have to but because I thought it would really stand out at night and add an air of custom class. Two mounts were welded to the back plate to accept push in bulb holders. These allowed the bulbs themselves to just poke through from the back along each side of the number plate. Final stage was to make good with the paint. The finished article. This is the view from inside the car. The rear panel is removable by spinning off the wing nuts. The lights have been half puled out to show them working. At night. My favourite.
Beautiful car used as the maker intended...also nice plunger A10 Beezer back a few pages, is that your dad's?
Love the car. '36 3 window is on my ultimate car bucket list. Gongrats and hope you are having fun Fryguy
Looks like I've got some reading to do, missed this one, have had a quick flick, wow you have done a wonderful job sir! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Clark, I scout the HAMB almost daily but somehow I missed most of your post. I remember seeing the original few pages right when you got the car over the pond but after that…..it somehow got by me. I just read the whole thing and now I'm late for work! I am very impressed and want to compliment your restraint on the details of the car; you really have done a great job!! Roll on!
That is one of the cleanest set ups I have seen for a license plate. Very nice build thread and photos. Love it.
Very cool licence plate treatment. Still my favorite pat of this car is that you drive the hell out of it! That's what it's about
That's really been worth the effort, you need to get a replica Californian plate now to finish the look off perfectly
The Jalopy Journal
