Projects 59 chrysler newyorker custom build

Went to drop the motor off to the machine shop and found a dog on the side of the road so I had to stop in help him... found his owners and offered to pay any vet bills if they needed help ... stayed up till 5am working on the motor bay and cleaning up the a arms for paint and starting to fab the replacment metal for thr old batter location ...should be done this week and moving on to the trunk

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Its my birthday so I was lazy but went to work on the 52 bags are in and rear is almost done ...as far as the 59 I got a little more cleaning of the motor bay done and inner fender removed cleaned and primed while I work ok replacing the bad metal from the old bat mount ... and fire wall should be ready for a skim of filler and primer ... I'm gonna take the whole day tomorrow and get everything I need and get a good amout of work done ...its though trying to get 2 cars done in a short time frame trying to keep everything done right but in a timely fashion but keep my self from pulling everything apart and getting in over my head...again trying to do it right but I'm not going for a show room car just a killer driver

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That 413 had to put a hurtin on your trailblazer lol

 

Yea Chevrolets don't like REAL motors. LOL

 

Well, I'll give you credit....you're not afraid to work.

I'd try hard to connect those two rear air bag upper brackets with a crossmember, it would be way stronger.

 

Surprisingly it did fine ... other than the motor sliding forward and dumping what little fluids were left lol

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Thanks and we are considering it he made the mounts as sturdy as possible without a brace between the 2 but ee will see nexrlt sunday ...I nade a thread just for that build also

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Any one know how to disconnect the colum from the steering box ... I said to slide up cover and remove pin but I cannot find a pin

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You need to slide the column tube away from the box a couple inches. To do that, you need to remove the steering wheel and then a small circlip that is around the steering shaft. Plus you need to loosen the collar that affixes the column to the dash.

Once you have pulled the column away from the box a couple inches, you take a roll pin punch and drive out the roll pin that retains the steering coupler to the steering box. The roll pin will be visible down the hole near the red arrow and you will need to rotate the shaft until you can see it.

Once that is done, the box and steering column are separated.

 

Is this what has to be removed ..behind the horn assembly ? I can't fin any where that anything can be holding this together other than this spot here are pics

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The circle clamp Is removed from the bottom by the box but I can't get it to the colum to shimmy up any higher than about a half an inch

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time for the torch then! lol

 

You are on the right track. Remove the nut, first, then there will be a small circlip near the tip of the red arrow. You will need to expand it then slide it off over the shaft. It is not a high-tension clip so a fine tipped pair of needle nose pliers will work if you don't have a pair of circlip pliers. Once that clip is off the whole column 'tube' will slide off the steering shaft. Once the tube is slid back, you will see the roll pin access hole on the box.

 

After taking a week off from the car I jumped back on it today for a little and got the steering colum apart and disconnected the box from the shaft and I'll be jumping back on the engine bay tonight ...

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After a 2 day event of trying to get my welder running mig we finally got it going ... we couldn't find the regulator for the tank that fit the line coming out of the welder ... and every welding supply store in the are had nothing and we're clueless on what to do so we bought a normal regulator for 75 25 and ran a barbed fitting and a rubber hose to the line from the welder... it doesn't leak and works so finally I can get to work on some.metal work again

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This is where the battery sat in the engine bay and I'm relocating it to the trunk and this area was rusted ... so I moved it in and started to make a patch ....This is when I wish I had more tools like a metal brake ...All the work I'm doing I am doing by hand with a vice and hammers so it may take a while but until I can afford the tools I will take the time and make it work
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And this is it all I gotta do is grind down my welds... not perfect but I'm happy with it for it being my first patch like this and doing it all with a hammer and dully ... now I gotta fix or get a new grinder and I'm ready to roll
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Well its 3 am and all welding and grinding is finished except for one little spot I need the die grinder for so I cleaned it up and put a thin coat of duraglass to fill in any pin holes and I will grind that down tomorrow and lay a coat of filler and start the sanding process ...finally getting somewhere

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The woman got an action shot lol

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What are your plans for 413 pistons?

 

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Well I just got a call and my block is cracked in 5 or more places so I'm screwed ... I need a new motor or at least a short block ... As far as the heads I won't know till tomorrow ... Idk how but apparently it froze at some point in time

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Nothing if I get new ones

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Well, I'd call this cat. He has a Mopar only junkyard and I'm sure that he can help. http://www.murraybpark.com/ and kind of close by.

 

I'm getting ready to dive into my 413. Pistons are spendy! Later 413 are low compression truck pistons, so beware. I know if my block comes back toast I need to at least save the long crank on the pre 61 413's....you can use them in a 440 block and still will allow you to bolt up to a cast iron torque flight..... Pre 61 413's I'm finding out are unique beast.

 

Of course forgings are available but swapping the crank into a 440 is the best economy for a daily driver.
There still plenty of MotorHome 440's on craigslist and not difficult to make the crank swap.

.

 

Yeah I'm having a hard time finding a good block so I may do a 440 with my crank ... it's sucks this stuff is such a pain ....I hate mopar lol ...

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Update on where in at ... so far I found out that I can use my crank with a newer block 413 or 440 to it will bolt up to my push button trans I am looking at a few motors all more that a hr away some about 4 hrs but I'm trying to find the one I want the most and that's worth getting ... I found some blocks and complete motors any tips on what would be better to get ... Also been really thinking of using the 440 block due to how I can find one in the area way better but if any one knows of anything that may be a concern please let me know I'm still learning a lot about this stuff and what to look for


Thanks !

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