Well, it has been around 7 years since I did that. Might have a pic in the file so I will look. IF memory serves me right it was a straight shaft with the telescopic end and I married the whole thing to the front half of the 'chev shaft. Pretty much a bolt in deal after changing out the u joints to match the different sizes required to match the Ford ujoint to the gm yokes etc. I will look for a pic.
Thanks, any info on the u joints you used would be useful too - were they conversion u joints or just ones from another application that worked out?
All my X frame cars have a slip yoke installed in the rear driveshaft to relieve the pressure off of the center support bearing. I had them break, pull the rubber out for years before I did the conversion and now they last years.....even the cheap autozone ones. I've also tried filling them with silicone, welding straps on, all was a temporary fix until I put in the slip yoke. A good driveline shop will be able to install one in your driveshaft.
I searched for pics and found I have none of the conversion. I will look thru my build folder and see I saved the receipts for the u joints.
Here is a link to a A1A Cardone pic of the drive shaft. The 2 wd version length is a perfect fit after changing out the u joints. Any good counter guy can check the sizes and provide you with the correct joints to marry these together. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?searchType=global&N=0&Ntt=driveshaft I will look for the ujoint part numbers this morning since it is 2 degrees out and I will not be in the garage for sure!!
checked my file and all I found was a reference to the 369 type joint. That is the factory oem style for a 64 drive shaft but coincidently is also the listed joint for the 91 Explorer rear shaft joint so it may just be the same joint throughout. This shaft came from a 2wd Explorer which I would think should be common in CA if you can find one in a yard. Hope this helps.
Great, thanks vtw! I pulled the driveshaft out yesterday to find the metal ring had ripped off the base so I decided to just get a heavy duty support and be done with it but the car shop was out of stock. Plan b was weld up the split, seam weld around the base and weld a couple of steel straps from the ring to the base. I also filled up the rubber bushing with roofing tar. I'll be installing it later today and see how it works out. Definitely want to do the slip yoke rear shaft when I get chance so I'll be down the junkyard looking for an explorer soon.
369 is the Precision number for the 1310 series Spicer U joint, which was used on a bazillion different vehicles, including many older full size Chevys and Fords, as well as later midsize GMs and Fords.
Your going to have to get the exploder driveshaft welded in and re balanced anyhow. Just go to the driveline shop and have them weld in a slip yoke on your driveshaft, re-balance and done. The last one I did was about $250 (about 7 yrs ago) for the slip yoke, 3 u joints (good spicer brand), I gave him a support bearing (cheap kragen one), his labor to put it together and balance. Also remember your rear end has to be on the ground or jacks stands BEFORE you tighten the center bearing bolts on the frame. Not sure where in SoCal your at but call Wade at Drivelines Inc. 800/963-7483. My 4 X frames (and a friends 2) proved my point many times over. 2 were stock height, 1 was lifted and the rest are lowered. Between the 6 cars/trucks we had we were keeping the parts stores around here empty on support bearings. I would buy 2 at a time, my panel was the last one I did the driveshaft on and it's been 7 years of daily driving and my Elco has been 10 at least.
Good info Oldtimer! You answered something i've been considering. That being with a telescoping rear shaft, the high dollar bearing may not be necessary.
Just get the Inland Empire support, and a slip yoke shaft. That is what I install. Zero complaints. Zero defects.
Well it's back together and working fine. One thing I noticed when I put it together this time is that the holes in the frame didn't line up with the center support when the driveshaft was bolted to the rear end so I slotted the holes in the frame. Thanks for all the info/advice, eventually I'll do a slip yoke in the rear shaft but I don't have time or money at the moment. One other question - are there different length front sections depending on the trans fitted? My El Camino was a originally a 6 cyl 3 spd which now has a sbc and 4 sod and the front shaft looks a little shorter than I would like ideally.
I've heard rumours that a 4 door Chevelle one piece driveshaft can be used to replace the two piece shaft. Anyone have any experience with that?
You'd have to open the X in the frame in order for that to work, right? I'm sure i've heard of guys doing a one-piece.
Alternative solutions to problems that have already been solved. The lowrider guys had this worked out when I was still a child.
I can only add to the agreement to use a slip yoke on the rear driveshaft. Had the same issues with my 59 El Camino and this solved all the problems. I also had the problem of the steel carrier bearing separating from the mount plate a the spot welds. So just weld it along the edges so it is stronger before you even install it. The std carrier bearing will work if you have the slip yoke on the rear as this eliminates the movement in the rubber part of the bearing.
Almost all of the ones I put together had the same problem, driveshaft in, car on the drive on lift and the center support holes were too far back. I was only about a 1/4" but enough to strain and pop out the rubber over time. I switched a few cars from power glide to th350, from 3spd to th350 and 6cyl to V8 and all were the same length on the front shaft. What i did was to put the support bearing in the middle of the slot before I measured and that would put the yoke in the trans out about 1". The driveline place here likes to see the trans yoke out about 3/4". The '59-'61 (I know for sure) have different frame mounts for 6 or V8, that bolt onto the frame crossmember. One sets the engine back a little more then the other.
Yes there are different lengths for the front driveshaft. It depends on what transmission is used. Here are the overall measurements, according to my "1933 - 1960 Chevrolet Parts and Accessories Catalog" 1959 - 1960 passenger (exc. P.G. , O.D. , 4 speed) 29 49/64 inches. 1959 - 1960 passenger w. P.G. 26 53/64 inches. 1959 - 1960 passenger with O.D. , 4 speed 24 5/8 inches. This is the overall length of the front driveshaft, from end to end, without the front transmission yoke, or the rear intermediate yoke attached. This is shown as type D in the attached photo.
I just got a slip yoke, urethane center support bearing driveshaft back from Advance Driveline in Orlando, $430 including taxes for my 59 El Camino, I'm sick of changing the center support bearings.
Cut the back 14 inches of the X tunnel and wedge it down about 4 inches. Weld a wedge shaped filler in the gaps and use a 3" thick wall one piece drive shaft. I did this couple of years ago and have never had any trouble. New drive shaft was $300. Sold the slider and the aluminum center bearing for more than that.
I like the idea of a one piece shaft but not so keen on cutting the frame. If you had the rear suspension low enough would it be possible to avoid cutting and how low would you need to go?
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