Register now to get rid of these ads!

Art & Inspiration 302 Ford small block, really small.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by gbritnell, Jan 9, 2014.

  1. Kustom.Falcon
    Joined: Nov 1, 2010
    Posts: 502

    Kustom.Falcon
    Member

    Amazing. Simply amazing.

    There is a machinest/drag engine builder near Seattle by the name of Steve Hansen of Hansen Engineering/Engine Dynamics who builds miniature engines in his home shop, as well. I'm dumbfounded as to the talent required to build these.

    The Kustom Falcon Build: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=734282
     
  2. woodz
    Joined: Feb 23, 2010
    Posts: 544

    woodz
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That thing sounds awesome! Amazing work, I am totally blown away.
     
  3. bymanr
    Joined: Nov 12, 2008
    Posts: 89

    bymanr
    Member

    This is the most amazingly detailed scale engine I've seen. You are vey talented!
    How did you stamp the Ford logo onto the top radiator tank?
     
  4. Tony Ray
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,111

    Tony Ray
    Member

    amazing work..i wish i had a quarter of your talent..
     
  5. gbritnell
    Joined: Apr 26, 2013
    Posts: 194

    gbritnell
    Member

    Hi 1964 country sedan,
    I used a conventional vertical mill and an 11" Logan lathe. I started with a round piece of 1144 stress proof steel. The mains were rough turned on the lathe leaving about .02 for finish. The rear main was left larger so 4 flats could be cut on it while milling the throws. The crank was then put on the mill to rough out the throws with a dividing head. The cheeks were cut to width leaving enough for the journal fillets. Two fixture blocks were made, one with a bored through hole to match the front main journal and a center hole equal to the throw radius. This block was split so that a clamping bolt set at 90 degrees would clamp the block to the front main journal. The second block had an offset hole bored into to match the larger diameter on the rear main. At right angles to the bored hole is a tapped hole for a set screw that had been flattened to sit against the milled flats. The blocks are mounted on the crank and the whole assembly is put on the layout plate to clamp and indicate. First the set screw is tightened against the flat and then the front journal block is set parallel and the clamping screw tightened. The setup is then returned to the lathe where it's mounted in a 4 jaw chuck and supported on the other end with a live center. The correct throw offset is dialed in and the throws are rough turned. This is repeated for each throw journal. On my 302 crank I took a narrow grinding wheel and thinned it down so I could get between the cheeks and finish grind the journals. Once the throws were finished the crank was set up between centers and the mains were finished.
    gbritnell
     
  6. 1964countrysedan
    Joined: Apr 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,131

    1964countrysedan
    Member
    from Texas

    Thanks. I will digest that.
     
  7. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 40,293

    loudbang
    Member

  8. 63Compact
    Joined: Feb 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,178

    63Compact
    Member

    That is awesome
     
  9. HotRod33
    Joined: Oct 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,570

    HotRod33
    Member

    What are the spark plugs from....? That is some awesome workmanship.
     
  10. Mind blowing skills!
     
  11. gbritnell
    Joined: Apr 26, 2013
    Posts: 194

    gbritnell
    Member

    Hi Hotrod33,
    Here's a little background on miniature engine spark plugs.
    Prior to about 1947 model airplane engines used actual spark plugs. These were actually made by Champion and AC. The thread sizes were 1/4-32 and 3/8-24. As with a lot of inventions they happen through some strange discovery. This is how glow plugs came into being.
    With the need for heavy on board batteries and ignition points eliminated spark plug engines were soon replaced by glow plugs so the sources for actual miniature plugs also dried up.
    There was one company in the early 70's out of Colorado that made 1/4-32 plugs but they also disappeared so if you built an I.C. engine at that time you had to use a larger plug which was out of scale or make your own.
    There are several materials used for home made plug insulators, two of which are Teflon and Corian. The plug shells are machined much like the full sized plugs and the insulators are machined and drilled for the center electrode wire. To assemble the plugs the insulator is placed into the shell and then the shell is crimped over to hold it in place.
    My 302 was built when there were no plugs available so mine are home made.
    There is a company that has been making miniature plugs in several sizes for about 12 years or so. The name of the company is Rimfire. The plugs are very well made but for mulit-cylinder engines it gets a little pricey, $21.00 per plug.
    The first 2 plugs are the originals made by Champion in the 40's
    The second picture is one of my machined shells and an assembled plug.
    The third picture is one of the new Rimfire plugs.
    gbritnell
     

    Attached Files:

  12. sololobo
    Joined: Aug 23, 2006
    Posts: 8,378

    sololobo
    Member

    ultimate respect, beautiful ~sololobo~
     
  13. HotRod33
    Joined: Oct 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,570

    HotRod33
    Member

    Thanks for the response on the plugs. Your work is that of a master craftsman.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.