I would like to install some riv-nuts in a blind application ( boxed frame ). I have found all kinds of them, but they all take a special tool. I have 4 to 6 of them to install. Is there a way to crimp them without the tool? They'll be 3/8" thread size. Thank you John
JP I put them in for mirrors on old chevy trucks find a grade 8 bolt with a nut 2 washer a little grease. Screw the nut on the bolt place the washers under the nut screw the rivitnut on against the 2 washers. Place a wrench on the head of the bolt push the nut in the hole take a second wrench and turn the lower nut while holding the top of the bolt stationary .Try it on a scrap it worked for me
You can fit them using a bolt , a larger nut and a few washers as spacers , It's a fiddle but do-able, stoping the rivenut from turning is the trouble Drill the hole as tight as you can , dab some superglue on the edge and fit the rivenut , let it set . Load the bolt with your spacers and wind it in, with a bit of luck it should rivet the nut. You may struggle if your using the rivenuts without the flange as there is very little for glue to bite to
Home made tool, works well. 1/16' metal strap with drilled hole, gr 8 allen bolt, nut and some washers. Grease the washers. Hold allen wrench and turn the wrench.
Perfect time on this thread ! Im getting ready to do install some Riv nuts this morning and was wondering the same thing.
The theory is good...but it's damn near impossible to stop the RivNut from turning. Once it collapses it goes, but to try and get a grip on the small flange of the soft aluminum RivNut is murder. Glue idea may work. Good Luck.
I have done the same thing, but I take a sharp chisel and stamp a *shape on the rivet side of the hole in the plate tool. This seems to grip the rivet better so that it doesn't turn.
Trick we do at work for them is run a full thread bolt and flat washer in from the back after the insert in placed in the hole. On the front place a washer and nut. Hold wrench on bolt and impact the nut till the insert fully compresses. But that only works if you can get in from behind. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
If you can find an electrician (usually) that has the small hand held knockout set its a piece of cake. You will need to find a stud, (exhaust ones usually) that is 3/8 coarse on one end, for the rivnut, and 3/8 fine on the other end for the tool. Draw it up just like you would a pop rivit, just make sure you stop before you strip the threads, or you have to drill it out and start over. Good Luck!
Take a 3/8 rod coupling and drill the threads out. File some grooves in one end of rod coupling that will help grip rivnut and keep from turning. Get 3/8 bolt long enough to catch all threads in rivnut and make sure the threaded is long enough so you don't run out of threads before rivnut is fully collapsed. Use wrench and hold coupling while turning bolt.
We have used an inside lock "shake-proof" washer against the face of the rivnut and or nut-cert to prevent it from turning during installation.
Thanks to everyone for the help. I will try to figure out a way to get the rivet not to spin. Either the glue or maybe flatten a spot on the flange to push against with a flathead. Maybe JB weld down flange? Thanks again John
Use a lock washer up against the nut sert flange. Don't over think a simple task. Stu p.s. I usually install them with an impact (3/8" air ratchet will do).
I bought my riv nuts from Aircraft Spruce and they sell an in-expensive tool which is worth it at under 10 bucks. It's just a bolt with a nut with no threads that some some teeth cut on the bottom to grip the insert. Worked for me in 19ga sheet.I put in about 20 with only 1 fail.