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Wiring help! Please!!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by steveabilly, Jan 17, 2014.

  1. steveabilly
    Joined: Apr 29, 2007
    Posts: 52

    steveabilly
    Member

    Just have quick question (for now) I'm wiring my 53' Caddy (first time wiring and by myself to boot) I wanted to know when wiring the front lights (headlights,turn signals, park lights) should I go straight to the light and then split up to the other light in the front or should I split the wires by the firewall and run each set thru the fenders (FYI - it does have wiring clips on the radiator support but I don't know if it'll get too hot)


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  2. oldsjoe
    Joined: May 2, 2011
    Posts: 2,607

    oldsjoe
    Member

    I believe the factory ran to the left headlamp then split from there to the right same with the parking lamp.
     
  3. Run to the core support then split them on the engine side right to left. That's my opinion.
     
  4. toddwith2ds
    Joined: Jul 5, 2010
    Posts: 85

    toddwith2ds
    Member
    from AZ

    Split it out at the lights. Looks much cleaner, and is easier to wire that way also.
     

  5. Barsteel
    Joined: Oct 15, 2008
    Posts: 732

    Barsteel
    Member
    from Monroe, CT

    I'm in the same boat here with a 52 Plymouth. On this car and several Chevy I've seen, there's a junction on both sides of the radiator support, usually in pain view. Check there.

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  6. The wires run along the drivers side in my '56 Olds, and then run across on top of the radiator.
    Just a word of practical advice, I recently pulled the engine out, and I almost had to cut the wiring, to be able to get it out. Maybe just give yourself enough length, to compensate for that.
     
  7. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Maybe this will help.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. FWIW, the Germans (Merc's et al), fuse each headlight and each beam, so 4 fuses and separate wiring to each headlight from the fuse box. IIRC, the hi-lo switch is fed heavy gauge, fused accordingly, and out to the fuse box, where it is split as per above.

    The Americans, Japanese, and for all I know, the Canadians too, run to the left headlight, then to the right. So there's only 5 wires heading up front to cover all the lights up front (hi, lo, park, r. turn, l. turn).

    So who's right?? They're all reliable, so you pick one.

    Cosmo
     
  9. chevyburb
    Joined: Apr 17, 2006
    Posts: 169

    chevyburb
    Member

    My 2 cents: now you are running the power for both lights through a single wire from the dimmer switch, I would use a relay ahead of lights. I've seem melted wires at the headlight switch on several occasions. Obviously you need separate wires to your turn signals. Good luck
     
  10. chevyburb
    Joined: Apr 17, 2006
    Posts: 169

    chevyburb
    Member

    Also, for my '59 Cad, I found a great wiring diagram on ebay for under $20, laminated in plastic and factory colors. It is priceless when your working with power windows, seats, etc. You don't have to worry about that though 'cause '53 seats & windows were hydraulic. Check ebay, contact the supplier to see if they are producing a schematic for your car.
     
  11. If I'm not mistaken, aftermarket kits like the Ron Francis Express kit runs seperate wires from the panel to each headlight..the logic being a short won't result in losing both headlights.
     
  12. steveabilly
    Joined: Apr 29, 2007
    Posts: 52

    steveabilly
    Member

    Thank you guys, all of your suggestions helped a lot. I'm going to run on the left and then thru the radiator support to the right.
    And thanks for the diagram


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  13. Pete1
    Joined: Aug 23, 2004
    Posts: 2,255

    Pete1
    Member
    from Wa.

    I ran 10 gauge to one light and 12 from there to the second one.
     
  14. oldsjoe
    Joined: May 2, 2011
    Posts: 2,607

    oldsjoe
    Member

    I have upgraded my four headlamp system with relays. They are brighter and it takes the load off the old headlamp switch. Here is a simple diagram.
     

    Attached Files:

  15. I did this on my daily driver ('88 T-Bird Turbocoupe). The factory light switch and multifunction switch had got hot enough for the plastic to be deformed. The relays made a big difference in my light output.
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2014

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