Help me with my 33 - 34 Ford frame, buy or build??

Im with 296 V8, i really dont feel its necessary to box a 33-34 frame, they are pretty nice and beefy the way they are.

If yours has some rust in the kick up thats easily repaired, just do the inner first then the outer or vis versa to keep its strength while doing the work.

my nieghbor is working on a 34 tudor and he bought a POS aftermarket frame, the body dont fit worth a shit as listed about in spidercoupe's post. just after market stuff!

jeff

 

It sure looks good to me. My first 34 frame rebuild 35 years ago had a 3" channel iron across the bottoms to hold the trans mount. and nothing between the front Xmember and the rear Xmember. None of the factory crossmember remained. Yours is a cherry compared to what I started with. JMO Leave the repo frames for the streetrodders.

 

. ss34coupe, Thanks man.

Josh,
Hey man that looks like a good frame. They all pucker in-between the X member section and main rail, not a problem. Looks like very usable frame, you will be fine and have a very solid build in the end. No need for aftermarket rails for you. I replied to your pm but not sure it went through so Ill post my number here also. Im in the shop 8-5 but you can call anytime before or after that really, if I cant take the call I just wont answer! Ha ha. Catch ya later.
Jesse

 

Josh,
I just finished this one, it was junk! It was so bad it literally gave the owner the freedom to say lets cut it up and do something wild without feeling like he ruined a good piece. It is actually sitting at ride height, it was tore down to send to the powder coater and i set it up quick to take a picture for you. All traditional front and rear suspension but we tore it down and the owner took it to get powder coated I wish I had a picture assembled its killer. He wants to have this one in the weeds yet lots of room so we Z it 6 in the rear etc etc. Point is everything you see thats bare metal is new. He brought me the frame in sections. Yours is cherry compared to this so feel good about what you have. Jesse

 

Stick with the original as your's looks to be in nice shape and will look better with your traditional drivetrain and suspension.
If you build the car low enough (and with fenders) nobody will see it anyway.
I started with a way worse frame with no X member or front crossmember. Boxed it, added a TCI dropped front crossmember and built a new X member.

 

Just starting one on my shop for a customer. Original 33 frame with dropped stock axle by 296V8, split bones, 33 spindles with original style tie rod and drag link, Lincoln brakes, Hudson steering from NealinCA, SBC with T5, Winters steel belled QC, A cross member and spring, 36 bones and Lincoln brakes. Doing minimal boxing. First original frame I've done in over 15 years

 

Jesse, you are really turning out some killer work down there. Those chassis look AWESOME, my friend!

 

I know... worst pics ever. This one I put together for under my 5w. It was really bad as well, someone back halfed it with fabricated kickups, rusty, crooked, bent, you name it... Cut it all apart, straightened it out, stuck it back together, raised front crossmember, added a model A rear one, boxed front and rear, blah blah...

 

Once again, I give it to you East Boys. Lots of work to bring that rusty metal back to useable, then on with the build...I sure see some Back East talent here! Kudos!

Out here in California (and Arizona, etc.) we are blessed with bodies and frames in much better shape to start with. But hell, I usually go the whole route anyway...Nothing's perfect!

 

Sounds like your heading down the same road I took with my 34. My main rails were good, 4-1/2" Z when I got them. I had to cut up 2 parts frames to get the pieces to put the X member back together. The chassis is sporting a 3" natural drop in front. 34 front spring. Model A rear cross member and spring. 36 rear axle with modified torque tube and 36 radius rods.

Motor is '50 331 with a S-10 4WD 5 speed. Made the adapter myself. TT adapter by Crazzydaddio.

 

Remember that the stock frame is eighty years old and that the metal ages and degrades with time. I'm in the process of putting my '28 Roadster pick up ( all FORD Metal) on to a new after market frame. Over the years the thing has sagged and twisted to the point that nothing fit right. I am NOT using a TCI frame although I live about twenty five miles from them. I'm also putting in a S16 De Soto hemi in it and taking out the '65 'vette 350 hp 327. I think it all boils down to use what YOU want and to hell with everybody else.

 

Haven't got that far yet...as it sits, the original crossmember and rear rails are still in place.

 

So-Cal uses a heavy wall square tube cross member on the rear of their Deuce frames.
After much 'surgery' on a 'slingshot-shaped' Deuce rear member, it would have been best to utilize So-Cal's idea.

2" square tube with 1/4" flat plate welded to bottom center, to seat the transverse spring. Nice and clean. (practically invisible)
That 'bent' (slingshot) rear spring on '32-'34 was a factor to deal with... just measure axle centerline carefully. (not necessary to say, but I see lots of error in that area!)

 

This is a good thread. I am about to get into a 34 frame soon for a customer, and we are wondering whether to restore the original frame. This frame has no sag or twist, hasn't been hit, but does have a little rust in the kickups out back. We were going to take the original x member out , fix things and put it back in, then go from there. This gives me a little confidence about it.

 

Hey thanks Andy I appreciate that. Right back at ya! Full steam ahead! Jesse

 

I agree with boomtown rat. Do what you want. I am starting a project and concerned with what will happen when all is said and done if I stay with the original frame. Mine is in good shape but the original frame had an 80 horse motor on it. What will happen when 400+ horspower and increased torque of a modern motor do to the older steel? It was more than adequate for the motor and technology of the day, but. Once you have put a lot of blood sweat and tears not to mention $$$ into the project you do not want to have to go back and deal with frame issues. If you are going for a more original look, and it seems with the setup you are contemplating that the original frame would do.

 

Even if you have to hire a welder to build your frame , I would strongly suggest you use the original and modify it as required, Because I didn't want to invest the time required to build a frame I bought a rolling TCI unit, BIG MISTAKE in my opinion, actually was why I sold my 5 window as soon as I had it mobile.Just wasn't happy with the tci frame or suspension. However, I do recognise that there are some excellent builders out there...I just don't know any..but I can tell you a few horror stories. You can't replace original dimensions etc.. MY OPINION ONLY..

 

Old thread, but a good one. What did the original fellow do? I much prefer original, but if you know what you are doing the ASC rails are really nice and I found NO problem with the contour once in the jig (unboxed).Cornhuser Gary, do you have some photos of the one referenced in your post? Sounds just like my taste.