GM Column

Working on the steering column in my rod and it is from a 75ish GM with floor shift, and tilt.
Column goes into accessory position with needle nose pliers and the switch goes into accessory when it is out and when it is in and a pushed out a little bit.
Lost you on that one right...
Seems like the switch is in to far..... could It have the wrong switch in it? I have worked on a lot of GM columns over the years but never this problem.

Pushing out on the outer edge of the switch while locked into position with the retainer.

 

I should also mention that everything else seems to work fine. Drove the car last year without the needing the accessory except for the drive in we were going to go to.

 

Is the the interlock part of the column in the park position.

 

Yes it is. I have it permanently in the park position since I am running a different floor shifter with not provision for it.

 

Couple of pictures to show the difference pushing it over makes. Notice the difference between the bezel and the column.

 

Do you have the tumbler retainer in place when it acts up? Can you pull the tumbler out with the key in it?

 

I am not sure what tumbler retainer you are talking about. I can not remove the tumbler without lifting the green part on the bottom and pushing in the lock on top. If that makes sense.

 

That's what I was wondering. I'm stumped. Unless something in the tumbler is broken. But it works?. Get a GM diagram of the exploded top of the column. There is a gear that attaches to the rod that goes down to the ign. Switch. I cannot explain the workings but the picture will show you. It will require you go deeper into the col. Been to many years since I took one apart. May also have something to do with the locking rod that comes up on the left side of the col.

 

I have been deeper into the columns before and I know what gears and attachment you are talking about.
Seems strange that the parts work but do not work together. Need to see someone else column apart to see how there parts move together.

 

Is this the column that takes the lock cylinder that is retained by the tapered bolt?

I forgot what year they started those,I think 1977,but they do not interchange.

 

After re reading this ,did you have the column completely apart? The rod and rack assembly on a tilt G.M has to be aligned to the tee or it will not allow the lock cylinder to turn properly, one tooth off and you will get the problem that you are desrcibing.

 

I believe the gear is lined up correctly since it will travel threw all the position with a pair of pliers on the shaft or be pushing the lock tumbler assemble out enough for the tumbler to turn.

If I installed (But it is not supposed to be this way) a spacer where my screw driver is there would be no problem.

This must be why GM installed a screw in the later ones to lock the tumble in place.

 

the key switch itself should not go into the accessory position unless the outer bezel(the part your thumb catches on to turn it) is pushed in toward the center of column whether installed in column or not. if you will look at the switch with it removed the end opposite the key has a little roll pin on the center part (at about 8 clock on your original picture)and this is stopped by a raised area on switch body itself. once you push in on the bezel/key it will raise up to clear the stop which in turn lets it go into accessory. sounds like maybe you have a faulty key switch if it won't go into accessory installed but will outside of column. i see nothing in your column that can interfere with the key switch operation as this area is completely open in the column. i was into a column this weekend tightening the tilt assembly screws and have built more than i care to mention. hope this helps hot rust

 

misunderstood what you were talking about in your original post, the problem lies in the housing as it looks like you have a piece broken from the housing that holds the switch. from what i can remember there should be a small piece to keep the switch from moving toward the inside( to the left of the locking tab on the key switch in picture #1) of the column that looks to be missing. check the housing to see.i think it should be from the bottom of the raised screw area beside your screw driver down to the solid area below the key switch hole

 

Removed the outer column tonight and did not see anything broken but I agree something is broken off or missing. really need to know what stops the switch from going in so far. I have a spare lower/inner part so I replaced the key shaft, gear and retainer spring tonight hoping that was it.... Not so much.

 

Have you tryed another key and tumbler?

 

first place to start....a new lock costs about twelve bucks.

 

Not yet. I am at work during the day time and it makes it a little difficult. I have it with me today and I am trying to get to one of the shop today.
I will take the turn signal switch out tonight and remove the outer collar complete. I has to be one of those two.

 

I agree Jim. Now that I have narrowed the issue down.

 

The little tang you push in to remove the lock cylinder is what keep the lock cylinder from moving in and out so if the tumbler is moving in and out of its outside sleeve it has to be a problem with the tumbler assembly.

 

Do you have a picture of what stops the switch? You can see in picture #2 of post 5 that there is nothing for the tang to bump into to stop it from going in to far.

This picture is from the internet and it show a back stop for the Tang...
The column is a newer one then the one I have since it has high beams on it.

 

I see what you are saying now. There should be a slot for the tang some cars you had a little casting flash over the tang slot and you would have to tke a scew driver and knock that out to be able to push the tang down to remove the lock cylinder. Some one must have been a little rough with it and has broken the hole end out.

 

I may have to drill a small hole in mine and apply a roll pin to stop the cylinder from going forward. Column is painted to match car and dash so it would not be a cheap fix.
Thanks for everyone's help. Some times you just need suggestions to lead you in the right direction.

 

You may be able to epoxy something in there to make a slot.

 

Well the fix was not so bad. I was going to put a roll pin in it but I opted for a #4-32 screw.
Drill the hole in the housing then installed the switch to mark my spot. Removed the switch and drilled a dimple in it with a 1/8" drill bit. Then taped the housing and reinstalled.