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Projects 28 model A could use some advice

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by "T'RANTULA", Jan 12, 2014.

  1. "T'RANTULA"
    Joined: Aug 6, 2011
    Posts: 661

    "T'RANTULA"
    Member
    from Ohio

    Hello fellow Hambers, ive been away for a long time and finally got the itch to build something pre 50s and found a 28 model A truck cab. Not sure if this is a decent deal or not but I think it is and is fixable. Im going to look at it in a few days and want your input on if im over paying and if I do get it might need some help with rust repair. I can get the cab for $625 but can probly talk the guy down to $500. Hope the pics work, bear with me. :eek:
    [​IMG]
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  2. Vintage Vandal
    Joined: Oct 3, 2007
    Posts: 720

    Vintage Vandal
    Member

    I'd feel good at 625.00. I'd feel ecstatic at 500.00!
     
  3. charlieb66
    Joined: Apr 18, 2011
    Posts: 549

    charlieb66
    Member

    Only buy it if you have experience with this kind if rust repair. This is not one that you want to learn on. If you have to have it done the cost to effect the repair will be out of site.
     
  4. tobyflh
    Joined: Nov 5, 2008
    Posts: 423

    tobyflh
    Member
    from Peru il

    I paid $500 for about the same shape with more parts and a title. I also can do metal work so I didn't need help fixing anything. So I think you are going to pay for a good cab or pay someone to fix it.
     

  5. telecustom
    Joined: Feb 17, 2009
    Posts: 336

    telecustom
    Member
    from Langey, BC

    Closed cabs are hard to find, I would give it a shot. But look it over well your in for a lot of work. Back when I was looking for my start I had to walk away on the first coupe I found, too ruff and too high of a price.


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  6. scrap metal 48
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 6,079

    scrap metal 48
    Member

    I think it's a fair price and could be a cool build.. Good luck with it...
     
  7. Flop
    Joined: Jun 8, 2006
    Posts: 3,886

    Flop
    Member

    not trying to discourage you in any way but you are gonna have 1000+ into the subframe . there is a brace inside the A pillar no one makes etc . if you have some experience with rust 600 bux aint to bad !
     
  8. The doors alone are worth $600
     
  9. Id say its not cab but a cowl & paterns
     
  10. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,799

    flatford39
    Member

    ! am building one now. Not as rough as that one but similar. Your going to need new sub rails, floor seat riser and the hard part that Flop is talking about. Also the metal header over the windshield is going to need replacing as I see daylight thru it. Howell's makes a replacement but it fits like crap and is a lot of work trying to make right. Finding a decent original is tough. Gonna run you at least another $200.00 just for that piece. I would buy it for parts and look for another. Keep in mind there is a fair amount of wood in these as well. Wood kits are available but expensive. I would offer $300.00 $350.00 max.

    Good Luck.
     
  11. abonecoupe31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2005
    Posts: 696

    abonecoupe31
    Member
    from Michigan

    Most of the parts you can buy out of the Snyder's catalog and they will run shy of a grand. As to quality Flop would know.

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  12. I think its a real good deal at $500 the doors alone are worth that.
    and you can learn to do metal work on a inexpensive project and if you totally destroy it your only out $500. However if the amount of work is overwhelming dont let it dicourage you from building a hot rod, just find a better body to start with. I'd buy it, but i dont scare easy and love these rusty ole bodies.
     
  13. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,333

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you are set on a Closed Cab, and have a penchant for rust repair, you certainly can do it, but it is not for the faint-of-heart, or the faint-of-wallet.

    Sadly, that's about the average condition you will find them in, these days:
    [​IMG]
     
  14. modelamotorhead
    Joined: Dec 24, 2011
    Posts: 487

    modelamotorhead
    Member

    I see a lot of parts there for around $450-$500. Sub rails are toast, but who cares? That fuel tank alone will bring $250 if it's good (the cap's still on, good sign!). I'd go for it just for the parts.
     
  15. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,333

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you are channeling, you will not really need the subrails, anyway.
     
  16. Not in the condition those doors are in. Let's add some reality here. Bottoms are gone.

    Good doors will cost you that though. You have to fight the Model T guys for those, if you can find them.

    I'd give it a home for less.
     
  17. "T'RANTULA"
    Joined: Aug 6, 2011
    Posts: 661

    "T'RANTULA"
    Member
    from Ohio

    Thanks for the quick reply guys, im fairly good at sheet metal work but havent worked on anything older than 1950s. From what I can see everyone thinks its a decent deal and it will be a lot of work. Anyone got any pictures of floors and braces of their cab so I can use as comparison? Guess I will go look at it and see if I can get myself into trouble. :D
     
  18. X2

    I paid $500 for a cab like that 20 years ago.
     
  19. [QUOTE="T'RANTULA";9471150]Thanks for the quick reply guys, im fairly good at sheet metal work but havent worked on anything older than 1950s. From what I can see everyone thinks its a decent deal and it will be a lot of work. Anyone got any pictures of floors and braces of their cab so I can use as comparison? Guess I will go look at it and see if I can get myself into trouble. :D[/QUOTE]


    Here's some.


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    attachment6WAUT552.jpg attachment86LS3JKJ.jpg

    attachmentFW2I65DK.jpg


     

  20. Exactly!
     
  21. b-bob
    Joined: Nov 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,097

    b-bob
    Member

    The good wood kit will be at least another $600.
     
  22. cw
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 105

    cw
    Member
    from Midland

    The bottom of the doors are usually rusted out. The design had the water from the window fall to the bottom of the inside of the door pocket where holes let it drain out. As time passed the holes plugged and you know the rest. Replacement bottom panels can be had for $50.
     
  23. There are enough replacement panels available from Macs, Snyders, Brattons etc that you can almost build a complete brand new one (at a price!). My point is some panels will be cheaper to replace than repair, eg: cowl quarter panels and subframe crossmembers.
     
  24. xhotrodder
    Joined: Jul 2, 2009
    Posts: 1,665

    xhotrodder
    Member

    I guess I'm behind the times, but I wouldn't pay more than $350 for that mess.
     
  25. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,711

    55willys
    Member

    I have one in that shape or worse. I chopped the top 6" to get rid of some of the rust. I shortened the cab back panels top and bottom to create the chop without cutting the rear window. Took 2 1/2" out of the header and 3 1/2" out of the wind shield = to 6" overall. Took out the top hinge as one was missing and chopped the doors the full 6" and tapered the posts to keep the window channels straight. I still need to buy door bottoms,sub rails and cowl lowers. I got it in a trade but my friend bought it for $600.
     

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