Sprayed my 34 pickup with Rustoleum flat black. That was 3 years ago and it still looks pretty good. Total cost...$18.00.
At age 15, I painted my first entire car with a Wagner power painter. The compressor we had wouldn't keep up and it was my dads suggestion to use a Wagner and he got the idea from the other guys at work who've never painted a fucking thing besides a fence. I really had no notion to not trust my dad at all, I didn't know any better, nor had any predisposed ideas about what is or isn't possible- so off I went. It was lacquer job and the first practice coats were way too peally. After some screwing around and ordering the right tips that paint job came out damn nice. As Nice as my friends car painted by his older brother who worked at a body shop. Nobody believed me when I told them it was out of a Wagner power painter in my garage.
I used Rustoleum and a roller to paint the hood on my '57 Plymouth. It's just a beater, so the fact the hood was a little rough and had checked lacquer was no problem - I just cleaned and scuffed it, then went to Home Depot for a quart of paint. I had them add blue oil-based house paint toner to the quart until it kinda matched a small piece I took inside. It's amazing how well the hood matches the car. To this day I've never had anyone think the hood wasn't original to it.
I panted this with Rust-oleum and a roller and its not bad Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I have been doing small parts and putting them in the oven for a while. The paint finishes nice and is very durable. The Chicken did taste like hot rod last night
Painted the bed of my trailer with gloss black Rustoleum, dulled out in no time. Repainted it this summer with Krylon Gloss Black in quart can, used a foam roller. Still looks great! Just my 2 cents on the subject. KK
Most of you who put their "2 cents" in should probably get change back. As a sign painter here in Florida for 36+ years. I've used gallons and gallons of Rustoleum on everything from signs to my shop trucks (had a few over the years) to the outside and top caps on my above ground pool. The signs, I use a foam roller and roll it on right out of the can. Drys hard in a couple hours out in the sun and shine for years out in the weather without ever being washed or waxed. The trucks i've sprayed. Early on I thinned with gasoline (I don't recommend this) or mineral spirits and the last one i reduced with acetone (as the label recommends). The latest truck I did 50/50 mix of flat and semi gloss black (what I had) with a red roof and wheels. It's been on there coming up on 4 years outside in the Florida weather and still looks OK (the red has faded a little). I use a clear spray wax on it every once and a while to get the water marks and greasy hand prints off. I just discovered rat wax and that seems to work good too. So in summary: if you're looking to paint your beater, shop truck or rat rod, Rustoleum works fine. If you're looking to win the Ridler award at the Autorama then it's probably not for you. That's my "2 cents"
I painted the roof of my Acadian gloss white about 4 years ago with Tremclad Paint (the Canadian version of Rustoleum), and for the about the $15 dollars it cost me it looked great! It's starting to peel a bit now..my fault, I didn't do much prep work, so this spring I will prep properly and re-paint. It will only cost me about another $15. This type of paint jobs are great for us low buck, not show car, daily driver guys.
Yep...$19.99 utility spray gun from Wally world...$9 a quart old based satin rustoleum from Lowes. Painted it the first time in the fall of 2012 then gave it a quick respray this past fall to get through winter. When the body is not perfect and probably never will be...this is what you do. It leaves me with more $$$ for the mechanicals, etc....And...I get thumbs up every time I drive it. Put it in a car show....nah....but it's a hoot to drive around. And I don't have to worry if I get a scratch on it. Steve-
This is rustoleum oil rubbed bronze, looks black in pics but is brown. Sprayed it through a hvlp gun. It's a satin type finish but has a good sheen to it.
Expect a lot of work if you change your mind about your car later, and want a good paint job, as you will have to strip it . Great for beaters though. I've done 4 , rolled 1, thinned with mineral spirits, , and 3 sprayed, thinned with acetone, all with fair results.
Stripping the car for a "real" paint job is always brought up. Now if you really cared enough about your new paint job you would be stripping the car anyhow. I have always found that side of the argument kind of funny.
I just brought it up, for those who may not think it through, like I didn't. Hindsight is 20/20, and I shoulda known better. It is only the one I painted over that I have had problems with, the others have held up great.
An old timer here did his 34 Ford truck with duplicolor engine paint. Two-tone blue/white. It looks professional in my eyes. He wetsanded it and it looks great. I have a picture of it on a thread about Groff's automotive carshow. Here's the link. It's the second picture. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=838532 Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I have a question about Rustoleum Paint Is it just as dangerous to spray as an other automotive paint? I have a truck that is just a shop truck and I purchased an HVLP turbine system so that I do not have a great deal of over spray all over the garage but I am also wondering if any paints are safer then others to spray a truck with? Thanks Jimbo
Just about any paint that doesn't have hardeners or thinners in it, pretty good common sense will keep you alive , Don't spray any two part paints (2K) without proper safety gear and use a spray booth ! You can be a dummy twice, first and last all at once !
Thought some of you guys might appreciate this. Got free truck in parts. Lots of different colors and some rust. Quickly threw it together and painted it with high quality exterior satin house paint using rollers and brushes. The wheels and bumpers/grille were spray canned with high gloss Krylon. Looks pretty good really! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Anything you spray besides water will have some risk that you need to protect yourself from. Anything means anything. Different risk different protection required. Most chemicals can and will be absorbed into your body thru your skin. Best bet is to read the MSDS sheets for what you will be facing. If you'll be adding a hardner to rust oleum it will contain the exact same isocyanates as any othe paint requiring the same level of protection.
I painted my car with Alkyd Enamel- not Rustoleum, but similar. It is a shop line of PPG. Sprayed in a garage with pretty bad lighting, by a 19 year old, using an old pot siphon gun. Cost was my main reason- $35 a gallon for black, and about $70 a gallon for red. My only regret is not using a hardener- I think that would have helped alot, because the paint did stay somewhat soft for a while. There was also some slight "checking" in the black paint, but I think a coat of wax would take care of that. The numbers were painted with rustoleum (by hand).
So you may as well use single stage if you were thinking rusto with hardener would be safer? Would that also apply to tractor supply paint?
Any 2 part is not safe for home use ! Period ! I hAte to keep saying , but it drives me crazy when guys keep asking, hardener or activators contain BAD shit in them, get a paint shop with a booth and safety equip. To do it for u .
If you want to get down to worrying about the slightest danger, spraying paint out off of a spray can is dangerous. They all contain nasty chemicals that can blow up and cause damage to your body. Just think about when you're spraying paint from a can and you get a head ache, that's a sign something is harming your body. That's why the warnings on the cans of almost any product says to use in a well ventilated area. Using a spray gun to spray any kind of paint only magnifies the danger because you are increasing the amount of chemicals being thrown out. Even though spraying Rustoleum, or any other oil based hardware store type paint doesn't have the added hardener there is still a lot of nasty chemicals in it. I use a paint respirator mask no matter what type of paint of spraying in my gun. The added danger of the hardener is your adding super glue to your paint and once it gets in your lungs it does what super glue does, hardens and sticks things together. I've read posts on all different sides and in some other places where people have sprayed paint in attached garages. This is, IMO, just plain stupid for two reasons. First, the fumes will get into the house. Worse case it will make the house stink. But also if there's hardener in the paint that will also get into the house. Anyone inside the house will be in the same danger as someone doing the spraying with out a mask. You cannot do a good enough job of sealing the garage off from the attached house. Second reason it's stupid, if there was a mishap and a fire or explosion were to occur there would be enough damage to a stand alone garage or shop. Why take the chance of burning down or blowing up your house?
If I am person who spent a lot on a paint job for my old car, of course I am going to knock this method. To each their own. Methods like this were how hot ridding was started back in the day...
http://vid104.photobucket.com/albums/m177/49Cosmo/Saturday AM Paint Shake_zps3ref7gms.mp4 Get her done y'all!
I've shot a lot of rustoleum, not on cars but on equipment and other projects mostly cause it's faster than brushing. Mostly with HF guns of equivalent cheap hvlp guns. I don't like lacquer thinner in it, slows the drying, acetone works better. I also like Valspar tractor enamel better than rusto. They're comparably priced. The hardener is worth the money. For cars, rusto is fine for frames, under, inner body. After blocking out a car, it's worth it to me to spend 300 or so for a budget single stage auto paint, enamel will give decent results. Napa has a good budget paint line, and there plenty online, it's not like this stuff is hard to find. I'm all for getting cars back on the road so I'm not knocking any rusto guys, my concerns the longevity, it's not much more to use budget auto enamel.
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