So occasionally my ford top loader 3spd will pop out of second. I took the spring and steel balls out of the side of the shifter plate and stretched the spring and cleaned the parts and it seemed to help. But it happened again? What do I need to look for to see what I need to fix? I have looked at the shifter forks and they look a little worn but this transmission is original so of course it has some wear. The gears look good and show slight wear. Any suggestions on how to fix this issue? I do have a spare shifter top but not sure if it will help. The transmission is out of a 46 ford pickup truck it is open drive and is like a 39 ford transmission. Thanks
I thought they were supposed to do that. I fixed mine by not letting off the gas in second. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
To truly fix it you need to strip the box, and at least replace the second gear synchro blocker, and if there is any wear on the second gear synchro teeth, replace second gear too. The detents don't have the power to fix worn gears unfortunately. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I have a spare trans I could build but am debating on switching gears and putting in a t5 trans. I hate to go that route at this point but not sure if the Hassel is worth it with the 3spd. I did build this car as a mid to late 50s hotrod so some what traditional.
I also think there's too much wear on something deeper, like a thrust washer or spacer... Frank Van Pelt knows and has the parts: www.vanpeltsales.com
It is normally a combo of too much end play in the cluster and input/output shafts and the syncro's. Not a hard fix but you need to pull it out to do it. Or just live with it for a while. All the best, Tim
The old circle track racers would have a hook mounted to the dash and a leather string on the shifter so they could keep theirs in 2nd gear. I have a similar issue on my '35. Once the engine isn't under load it pops right out. Another thing on the list.
The blocker ring has absolutely NOTHING to do with keeping the gear in gear.The blocker ring slows the gear so the speed of the gear matches the speed of clutch itself when the shift is being made.. There is wear somewhere.Fork,sliding clutch where the fork pushes it into gear,clutching teeth of gear or clutch(probably both),bearings,thrust washers,etc...
This is true for the up-shift and down shift, but a worn ring also allows more play providing room for the pop out as the input and output wiggle around. You bring up a great point about the shifter. This is an often overlooked remedy as they are also wearing after 70+ years of service. The leather strap on the dash is the best remedy currently, also the cheapest. All the best, Tim
I was having the same problem. I used a kit with a heavier detent spring and different detents. I ordered it from someone named Hot Rod John quite a few years ago but had never used it. It has worked so far and I have driven it quite a bit. May be worth a try. Karl
Voila! Here is my solution. I don't use it for everyday driving but when I compete in hill climbs I tend to find that most tracks leave me in no man's land between 2nd and 3rd so the solution has been to use the hook to keep it in second and wring the the heck out of the motor