Question for the custom guys. I was hoping to keep this under wraps until I could actually do it and add to my build thread, but I've run into a snag. I'm trying to put a '59 Edsel dash in my '51 Ford, similar to what jerseymike did with an Olds dash... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=643347 I think I've pretty much figured out how to mount it and make the 'wings' on the sides incorporate into the doors. My problem is the steering column doesn't line up. Everything about the Edsel dash is symmetrical with the pods on either side and the column lining up with the speedo. Am I dead in the water? Anyone else run into this? Suggestions? I do have a couple of '51 Ford dashboards I can cut up, maybe I should just create a totally custom dash, but I was really hoping to not make this a massive job (like everything else on this friggin' car). BTW, yes, there's a HUGE thread about custom dashboards (mostly hot rods)... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=303543
My first thought was to cut and shift the column drop area but that creates a bigger headache with the knobs and controls etc. I know, I know... if it was easy they'd call it sport tuning.
How much wider is the Edsel dash? does it need to be trimmed in the middle to make it smaller? add a pulled back shot to show how it fits in the opening.
Looks like you are building a lot wilder thing than i am.That came to my mind too too,to make it narrower from the middle and then adding stuff for the sides.I guess thats the easiest way to get the column line up with the speedo That would give more choices what kind of wings to fab on the doors too..
The best and probably the easiest approach to getting your column to line up is to section the center of the dash to bring the center of your gauges and column together and lined up.
Did you use a senior series Edsel dash or a junior series? Senior (Citation/Corsair) would be wider and based off the Mercury bodies. The Junior (Pacer/Ranger/Villager) are FOrd based. That may be part of the issue. Worst case would be to cut the sheet metal on the dash, thus sectioning it probably 3/4" - 1" to get the column centered. Some welding and filler and elbow grease would fix it.
If you can't bring the horse to water. bring water to the horse. Don't move the column, when you sit behind the wheel it will feel REAL wrong.Move sheet metal to align.My Zephyr has a dash made up from 5 cars (38 zephyr, 50 cad,50 stude, 63 vette, 62 chry). My 46 chevy uses a 59 chevy dash that lost about a foot. STARE at it, hope you find a solution, your to far from me to really help
Hmmm. I'd cut the instrument pod out of the dash panel, and move it over to line up with the column. To keep it symmetrical, you'd then have to move the glove box pod a like amount. (Am I remembering right, that this dash has two pods?) I was faced with a sort of similar problem in my '59 T'bird when I dropped the w/s frame into the cowl, which meant the dash dropped the same 2". I cut the pods out, moved them up and forward. Brian
Hey, Carefully cut the ''pod'' area out, move it over the 3.5''? to align with the wheel center, & section out the 3.5''? from the right of the ''pod'' area. Add metal to the left of thedash ot fill the void. Piece-o-cake, ''if'' you can weld & shape metal " Humpty Dumpty was pushed "
If the Dash fits where it's at and you like it I'd look into a single piece double U-Joint and do it right at the toe board. You mentioned the K.I.S.S. method. I did this on my 51 Vicky to correct the Nova box to dash mount. No one has ever noticed it. Way easier than anything mentioned so far. The Wizzard
Hey Wizard, the '51 Ford sterring shaft, as pictured , is a one piece shaft that goes all the way down to the sector gear in the sterring box. Cutting one up would require someone who's done those several times before, and didn't they have a recall on some of those aftermarket U -joint pieces awhyle back
I'm aware of the work involved. I personally don't feel it's a big deal. It's just another option to consider being he wanted to keep it simple. I have 18K on my 51 since doing the Clip and no issues with the double joint yet. Knock on Wood. I haven't heard of any problems with them. The Wizzard
P.S. My 51 has the stock wheel, shifter, and horn so it looks like a real 51. There are photos of it on here somewhere.
Thanks for the replies, you're giving me some things to think about. The dash is out of a Villager Wagon, and it is almost exactly the same width as the stock Ford which is why I'm confused about why the wheel would be an inch or two to the left of what should be a normal driving position. Maybe because it was designed for 3 people across the bench? I did a little playing around yesterday and got the dash aligned exactly where it should be, side-to-side. It will actually be about 2 inches lower... I can delete the aea where the column goes and create something new for the Ford column, but it means the wheel won't be lined up in the centre of the dash pod. I either live with it like this or go to Plan B, which is a stock '51 dash, or I also have a nice '49 dash. The Edsel dash is kinda space age, and the twin small instrument pods work with my dual taillights. I have a '63 T Bird interior, so the car is going to have an early '60s vibe.
Good call on the (E) cluster, Andrew. Pretty easy to change the color too. You know the dash is the same as a '59 Ford if you need more metal. I also filled the speaker grille on mine.
Why not cut two or so inches off the right side of the dash. It's pretty flat and straight on that side. Add that piece to the left side and blend it in. 28
I think I'd take the 2" out between the ash tray and the glove box, (Is that where the heater controls fit?) then add the 2" to the left end of the dash. You will have to do some blending to fit up to the door.
Not a lot to work with on the left side, and catch-22, the chrome trim strip becomes a problem. It's an enigma wrapped in a riddle humping the leg of a conundrum... If I run a column mounted tach leaned off to the left, that might visually make up for the offset column... or am I just fooling myself because I'm lazy
Is it off center to center 2 inches with the side pieces added? Od just dash same width. How wide will the pieces that fit onto the doors go into the dash? because if it sticks out far you would make the dash even shorter. Like on the Olds dash. I think you need to have everything to start it. The side pieces need to be mocked up to figure out how much needs to be taken out and the whole thing shifted once you figure that out. it seems like cutting it in the center part would be the way to go. Kustoms aren't easy if it was everyone one would build them.
I say try and make the steering wheel centered or you will regret not spending the time later on. I spend a good part of last winter sectioning the center out of a 57 Chevy dash to fit it into a s10 blazer, and this was to make sure the steering wheel was properly center. A lot of cutting and welding but well worth it when it's done.
There isn't anything much more uncomfortable over the long haul than a steering wheel that is in the wrong place in relation to the seat. Been there done that and didn't enjoy it. I'm with those who say take a section out of the center of the dash and then build up the outside ends to fit the car. Maybe more work than a double jointed steering column but a lot more comfortable to drive car when you are done.
If you cut out that section between the ashtray and the glove box as mentioned and put it on the left side, then, cut the chrome piece where the new piece would fit. This could give you a place to make up a chromed insert panel with a guage in it to look 'factory'. If you've gone this far with everything else as you've said then why stop there and half-ass it?
I just noticed you have what looks like a stock 3 speed column shift. If that's the case and it's going to stay your only choice is to cut the dash. You can't off set the column at the floor as I mentioned prior. That won't work with clutch and brake pedal. A steering column at an angle is just plane no good. Gauges and spedo off center also not a good deal. Either of those 2 things would look 1/2 Ass. The Wizzard
chopping staight up though the middle is a lot of work to finish IMO. If I was doin it ...I'd mark the top about 1/2in from the end (1st cut),make another cut line further in allowing for the required ammount to be removed. I'd bring my cut line down under the roll. Mark a cut line PARALLEL to the fold (along the roll portion) ,then cut the same ammount straight down through the ashtray area. This would keep weld distortion and finishing to a minimum and keep the glovebox from getting too close to the end of the dash. Then I'd add nice cappings to the dash ends and not worry about blending them into the doors...although I'm not familiar with the design of the doors. Try and avoid doing any more welding on the top of the dash than you absolutely have to thats just my .02 PB
All good comments, I appreciate the input. It helped me get it straight in my feeble brain before I whipped out the sawzall I decided to take the section out of the clock, that way I wouldn't lose the radio or ashtray. That darn clock was only right twice a day anyway... Planned some fancy cutting on the left side to try to cut through straight sections and minimize the finishing... Darkest before the dawn... Surprisingly, it pretty much worked out... Lots of welding and finishing left to do, lots of detail work, and still need to cut and fit the mounting area at the windshield, but the gauges are where they should be and the steering column etc. is lined up and I will still be able to shift without breaking my knuckles... I'll get back to it on the weekend. And I'll move the rest of the updates to my build thread. Thanks for the help, gents.
Nice work! Worth the extra work to have it looking like it should have been there from factory. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I do feel your pain - I squeezed a 52 Buick dash into my 40 Chevy, which required sectioning it up into 12 separate pieces in order to move everything around to be centered over the column and still evenly spaced across the whole width. A real pain, but well worth the end-result - Your's turned out great!
Good that you did it the "right" way. Most people have no idea whats involved with building a custom. Looks great! Keep it up. Torchie.
Thanks guys. Now I have to sit at the office all week thinking I'd rather be in my garage finishing this. Hopefully when all is said and done most non-car-people won't really know the car is customized, and car people won't know what the heck they are looking at Tons of mild changes all over, but nothing toooo extreme (well, other than the dual taillights).
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