Need help deciding what frame boxing plates to buy for my model a project. Saw some on Ebay that had tabs, others had bevels all to assist with max weld penetration. They are also different thicknesses too, What do all recommend to buy ?
i've got a new set of boxing plates from dagles i'm not going to use, i'm in rosemead ca. about 16 miles from you. if you can use, let me know.626-571-4044
I built my own out of 1/8" flat stock. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=540287&page=4 about 1/2 way down the page.
I always make my own. Tabs should work well. Like these: http://www.wolfesmetalfabrication.com/ModelAboxingplates.html No need to go past 1/8", unless you are planning on big HP and torque.
Wescott fiberglass has had early Ford frame diagrams in the back of their catalog for about 30 years now. Model "T", Model "A", '32, '33-'34, '35-'40. Pretty damn accurate too.
I always shear my own from 10ga. oiled and pickled stock. Shear to 3 3/4" width and cut the tapers to match. Back bevel both the plates and the frame rails 45 degrees which gives you a 1/4" V groove to weld with 100% penetration. Tack some strap angle across the plates every 12" or so and clamp them flush before welding. Very easy to dress your welds this way and you maintain the correct width of the A frame rails. They just don't look right to me when you make them thicker and they really look street roddy when they are 2" tubing. Unfortunately, the 2x4 .120 wall is the strongest frame of them all. When your welding be sure to jump around and weld a max. of 1" at a time to minimize twist. If the frame isn't locked on a table it's brutally important to keep the heat warpage to a minimum as you won't get them to pull straight no matter how much you tweak them. Thats the voice of experience there. I ruined the first 4 or 5 frames I've worked on until the reality set in. I have done in excess of a hundred frames this way and it works great and looks just right. Hope this helps.
Wow, thank you for all suggestions. I am new to steel fabrication (done some aluminum building airplane parts) so I think I am going to "buy" off ebay. To answer a couple of questions, I am planning to run a stock 59AB flathead with 39 three speed tranny and 40 banjo rearend. Already have the tardel K member and F1 steering box. Plan on retaining all three stock frame cross members too. Your basic traditional "kit" (I know another guy who bought the book, but damn it makes things easier). From what I read, even with a flatehead it is still advisable to box the model a frame, so looks like 10 gauge (1/8) thick is the way to go. Still wondering: 1. Should I go with the "standard" or "inset" plates as pictured in the attachments? 2. Allot of the ebay sellers offer the plates cut in 2 or 3 sections a side to reduce shipping costs, is this going cause problems later?
I like the "standard" install. I am sure that there is a strength difference between the two, but it is the weekend, and I don't feel like figuring it out. Both will exceed the requirements, by a ton. As for "cut" plates, no, this will not cause problems. Just give 'em a good bevel where they butt together, and weld 'em up (properly). Remember, tack the plates all in, and then weld up in SHORT sections, moving all around the frame, allowing cooling time. You almost can't do this too slowly. Any distortion you introduce here, will be there, forever.
I use the 1/8" "easy weld" boxing plates from Wolfs Fabrication as sold on ebay. They work well and alignment is a snap. I use the standard plates because Pete & Jakes's and Chassis Engineering's stuff (motor mounts/tranny mounts) is made to fit standard plates on the outside of the frame. Agree with what everyone else says about keeping frame twist to a minimum or not at all.
I bought the ebay plates without the tabs (because im a cheap ass). And they were a perfect fit. A few good c-clamps is all u need, but the tabs would make it a bit easier for sure.
As mentioned, I do sell them here on the HAMB (in classifieds) on Ebay and straight from my http://www.wolfesmetalfabrication.com website. The tabs that I have incorporated in my "Easy Weld" design, does in fact make it easier as mentioned. If you have any questions, please feel free to email or PM me. Right now I have 23 T, Model A, 32, 33-34, and 35-40 Ford in solid, drilled and Dimpled flavors. I also have some that are shorter lengths for those of you in length restricted International shipping locations. Brian Wolfe
I'll used boxing plates from Wolfe's twice, they worked well for me. I just ordered another set last week, to do on my 31 Ford Coupe. I ordered the 1/8" "easy weld" type with the small tabs for easy alignment.
The Jalopy Journal
