How are you guys opening the trunks when you weld up all the trim holes on your deck lid?Ive got mine on my workbench and migged up all the holes just got to fab a piece for the keyhole on my 56 vicky mild kustom project.Chopped Olds mentioned a cable release.Ive got a friend that works in a J.Y so i could get it cheap enough.Thanks
on a '47 Ford coupe I just used a carburetor manual choke cable attached at driver side base of rear seat to stock trunk release. some have used simple action set ups from a VW.
Used a 70's/80's GM door lock solenoid, and a modified rod, for the trunk of a '63 Riv I had for awhile. Just had to build a lever, bracket, and spring return. There are probably better options, but it's what I had at the time, and ended up working well for the years I had the car.
Cab-over truck choke cable, it's really long, attached to home made linkage on the original lock assembly. The older lock assemblies had a slot on the inside that the old cylinder slid into. Run the cable under the rear seat to the seat edge. No solenoids to burn out! Weather strip is enough to pop the deck lid up. If not, make 2 brackets and use a spring from behind a window crank that holds the upholstery against the window crank. Clamp the spring between the brackets, one mounted to the still and one on the inside of the deck lid. It's been working for me for 30 years in a 58 Bel Air. Good luck. Bob
My '56 Ford convert had a shaved decklid...I ran a NAPA aftermarket choke cable from the latch mechanism in the trunk to a drilled hole right beside the gas fill tube behind the license plate. I was the only one that knew where it was...as far as I know. Spare and jack were never stolen...
I have had a $17 electric trunk release from JC Whitney on my 56 Fairlane for about four years. I had one on my 66 Chevelle for about 20 years and never had a problem with it, but I would never rely on just the electric release without a manual back-up.
I've used GM starter solenoids and a push button. On our 41 Ford we found an 80's Buick with an electric latch and just used it. On my 1939 Ford the last owner had a simple cable that ran clear up next to the driver side seat. This was in the 70's when I bought it. Worked great till the very first Street rod Nats in Peoria when I had a large cooler in the trunk. Cooler slid over the cable. I broke the latch getting trunk to open. Still broke.
I've had magnetic openers,solenoids and cable operated. I now keep door handles and locks but if I were to shave a deck lid again I would use the remote choke cable,,no problem should you have a dead battery. Believe me,I have knowledge about a battery being dead.HRP
I'm using a cable run thru brake line ( to make the curves) then its run to the bottom of the back seat on the driver side on my 49 fleetline.
Now you tell me! So simple. No chance of a cooler sliding on the cable and preventing it from pulling properly rather than downward.
I didnt use any latch on my 28 3 window chevy.I had a single convertible top cylinder that opened and closed the deck lid.
A simple short choke cable located under the bumper has worked for me so far. No problems. I got tired of failing solenoids.
as a side note on electric - years ago, a friend had a glass '37 Ford convert streetrod- electric everything. trunk opener solenoid failed at a show, with lots of vendors. but, there was cold beer in trunk. so, located a vendor with a hole saw. since license plate was recessed on trunk removed plate and "just" drilled a hole and was able to activate release. he hated warm beer.
I just installed a Summit solenoid kit,$21.97.I have a manual release under trunk,in case of electrical problem.( Battery in trunk)
I'd go with the cable. Way easier to deal with. A VW Rabbit or Mk2 Golf/Jetta/GTI hood release works great.
Yeah, Mike, a cable is good, stay away from those cheap solenoids, though, They don't last long, then burn out. I also am a fan of using an entire 70's-80's GM electric trunk latch. Came with electric built in, millions of them out there, and VERY reliable, for electric!