I TIG welded one for a friend and that had to be 25 years ago and it is still in the car. First we cut the rod to his desired length. I made a solid pin about six inches long that I inserted equally in both cut ends, and plug welded it. Then I ran a bead around the spliced pieces. Cleaned it up and you couldn't find the cut.
Had 29 Ford with a welded pitman arm and not problem. Cut to length then ground each end to a tapper. Had real Tig welder weld it. He welded allowed to cool then welded some more. He added a good bit of metal thru the weld process. Little metal finish work and it was fine..
No problem!----If you are a good welder! Grind all edges to 35 degree bevel, pre heat both parts, tack & check for desired alignment, weld out, let cool, finished!---Now that was easy huh?
Here we go again! What a fun ride! I'm gonna go weld something on my steering system; will return in 50,000 miles!
Pretty well impossible to get a car legal on the road in NZ if any steering component is welded. Tha eliminates the cowboy backyarders who think they are the gods of welding anything steel. But also penalizes the pro who can actually weld.
Let me add something to my original post. I am a licensed, professional welder. If you are not comfortable doing such a modification then by no means should you attempt it!
Bingo,I am not a professional welder,something like this I would seek out a professional,,usually you can find a pitman arm that doesn't need to be cut. HRP
Jake did it several times on the original Mustang pittman arms that were used on the original 4 bar set ups they built. I think R&C even did an article on how to do it, by Jake. True, Jake is a superb welder, but many others can do it also.
Sort of true. You are allowed fabricated steering components [ there are a lot of hoops to jump through to get it legal ] Our certification laws are great. The secret is to Ask before you Do!
As I remember the ones that Jake did were fabricated, using the spline of the original. I have built many for circle track/ street use. I start with a 1/2" thick blank with the big hole bored to size on an angle, to gain some offset. I then saw the spline off and machine it to size, on a mandrel to hold it in the chuck. Tack weld the center in, and remove a portion of the loop, otherwise it will be prone to crack if welded in a continuous circle. Tig weld it and let it cool in a bucket of kitty litter. I have seen arms grafted together, however I wouldn't trust them. This is a sample of one to fit a V/W Bus box.
Yep. I said pretty well impossible... Because of the hoops to jump through. They frown upon anything welded unless it's 110% impossible any other way.
Had a welded one on the last truck I built. I don't TIG weld but have a buddy with a welding shop. I asked him how to prepare it before I brought it to him to weld. Worked great and is still on the truck today.
Many of those that I have welded, I finished in a manner as to leave no trace of modification. The one on my rock-rig appears to have been forged that way.
Not a problem here as long as you are a competent welder, have it heat treated and certified that it meets relevant standards. Otherwise I wouldn't risk my life or that of loved ones on a backyard job.
OK, it was years ago, but I had a friend with a vintage racing car, sidevalve Ford powered by the way. He had a 'new' pitman arm made by shortening and welding one, all done by a specialist welder. It was x-rayed, magnafluxed, whatever, as required by the CAMS motor racing body here in Australia. They passed it for use on the car as he was 'upgrading' a number of things, including installing a 6 carb nailhead. The other new requirement they demanded was a rollbar, something Frank hated as it 'spoiled the lines' of his vintage racer. First race, 3rd lap, turning into the curve, the 'perfect' welded pitman arm snapped at the weld, just like that. The car hit the wall and rolled several times before skidding to a stop, upside down. It wore a hole in the top of his helmet and destroyed the 6 carbs and manifold. If he hadn't installed the rollbar the lines of his head would have been 'spoiled' permanently. There's NO WAY I'd trust anything welded in a steering system, my life and my passengers' lives simply aren't worth whatever I'd save by not doing the job properly. And that's Frank's 'SO-CAL SPECIAL' parked in the infield in this classic pic. Cheers, Glen.
can't see Frank's car "parked" in the infield much but dig the two in the foreground! looks scary fun! GO DOG GO!
Apparently the "specialist welder" wasn't up to his title. Any good certified welder will either do it properly, or tell you why he wouldn't do it. The problem is that it isn't easy to determine what type of steel was originally used, therefore type of welding rod to use, or stress relief/heat treat procedures are a guess. I've done plenty of them over the years and nary a problem. I always finish them off to a high degree of smoothness. A crack won't usually start unless it has a place to start.
I definitely agree with woodywagon!! Ive been an active welder/ certified in many areas an ive done a few of these...exactly that way...yo s tee...tig is best way ....since less heat at the source with best penatration...an always plug weld! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I should also add...that i trust myself in my own hands...i wouldnt let someone else do it for what that is worth...its a touchy subject an devinitely dont want to debate.just givin my answer as ther are many...it comes doen to your safety bottom line an foremost...i case hardened mine an exrayed only bcause it was available...but anything can fail...including a new one.. Derek Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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