*#* 1243 is the order for the Dec 2013 Banger Meet*#*

Scored this guy tonight, been collecting a few banger bits so sometime i should find a good motor to put it all on!

jeff

 

I've got a 4-blade fan on my water pump in the Tudor. I took it off this morning to take it apart and rebuild with a leakless kit from Bratton's. The trouble is it looks like the nuts were welded to the bolts/studs that hold the fan on the pulley, and I can't seem to tell how to get to the end of the shaft to get the pulley off.

It even looks like the "cup" on the back of the fan is welded to the pulley.

Is this thing jerry-rigged or am I missing something?

 

Sorta sounds like it. Have a picture?
Can you not see the nut on the end of the water pump shaft that holds the pulley on, as in it is covered?

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Carter,

Yes, I cannot see the nut on the end of the shaft that holds the pulley on.

Pics.....

 

Now that I've posted the pics, I think I see threads on the end of the shaft.....Do you?

I also clearly see the welds on the nuts. Ahhhh, NUTS!

 

Looks like threads in the center. I think the fan blade is welded to end of water pump shaft.

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Great!!! (said with the utmost disgust) I really wanted to use this fan!

Guess I gotta go to the spare chassis and pull the OTHER pump! Only a 2-blade piece!

 

I'm not sure what that fan is. Looks like one of the early V8 units. I have one of the aluminum two blade fans on mine. I'm happy with it.

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I'm building a new motor for the coupe. I need some advice and/or confirmation of what I'm thinking. This is an A block, counterweighted B crank, Cunningham B rods that are standard length, and Petes pistons, Weiand head. When I mock the engine up, the top of the pistons are coming above the deck .070". The block was decked .015. So apparently this blocked has been decked in the past. Running a Best gasket that is supposed to have a compressed thickness of .050". I would think these rods would not stretch much. I considered cutting the top of the pistons but don't like the idea of weakening them, they don't appear all that thick. I'm considering flycutting the head .060". This should leave me .040" clearance. Any problem having the piston come up thru the gasket?

 

What is your bore dia.?


.

 

4 inch

 

I don't think it will be a problem.

'

 

Thanks Dan

 

If you want to have some fun, dome the top of the piston, and cut a corresponding dish relief in the head . The you would be like the Flat Head V8 guys.


-

 

Before cutting anything, verify the assembly.
The block 11.5 tall
crank stroke 4.25
rod 7.5 CL
pistons 1.875 CH

I would not be surprised to find crank stroked +.125

J

 

DO NOT under any circumstances use the stock, two blade fan. Under close examination you will probably see stress cracks forming in the area where the central hub is formed. It's not a matter of IF the fan will shed a blade at high speed, it's a matter of WHEN the blade will come off. At the least, it puts a humungus dent in the hood. Other option is that it goes deep into the radiator core.

Been there, etc etc

Herb

 

Yeah, they go from no visible problems to broken very quickly...

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Yes DONOT use a stock blade fan. The new aluminum ones are cheap and look the part. I've seen them come through hoods. I imaging they could split a head like a melon!! Like others have said it's not a matter of if it's a matter of when. Also the two blade is more efficient at cooling that a four blade


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I've some how managed to collect a bunch of 4 blades. I have 5 including the one on my car. Good to know they sont cool as well. But the real question is, are they stronger?

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They are a little better but they break as well

 

Morris minor fan

 

Or land crab plastic jobby just about unbreakable

 

Land crab is a morris 1100 here horrible things

 

I read in an old Restorer or possibly on the Fordbarn that the six blade and and the two blade push about the same and the four is a bit less. The areoplane design of the two blade pushes a lot of air.


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And the plastic six blade job just looks wrong


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Who's running duel 81's ?..I am having issues with the flow balance....equal flow to the 2 cylinders

 

I have a flow meter you can have if it will help .................

 

Here is a link to the dual carb tunning procedure that I use.
Read post 87:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6638461#post6638461


'

 

Ended up using 200-2906 arp bolt set couple thou shorter but I can live with it , on another note does anyone out there have parts for this distributor ?cap rotor points ?

 

thanks for the link..