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Projects What should I be paying for DOM tubing 7/8" x 0.156 wall?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 31Vicky with a hemi, Dec 20, 2013.

  1. What are you guys getting this stuff for?
     
  2. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,476

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    How much are you buying and what are YOU paying for it

    chromemoly 7/8 x 188 wall is around $10 ft
     
  3. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,903

    need louvers ?
    Member

    I haven't bought in awhile, but look for the wholesaler in your area. When I did some searching and handshaking and buying, my local price went from about 14.00 a foot to like about 5.00 a foot. I simply followed the trail and figured out where everybody else in town bought theirs...
     
  4. My steel prices seem to be inflated.
    My go to place (non stocking) was 5.31 a foot.
    My buddy called his place and was about 3.75 a foot.
    304 stainless 7/8x 0.188 non polished was 9.20 a foot
    Haven't priced chromemolly
     

  5. I'm going with the stainless and skip the chrome shop.
    I don't think I can get a front and rear set of bars , tie rod and drag link chromed for the 150.00 difference in material.
     
  6. Last time I bought some locally was around $6-$7 ft for steel
     
  7. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,903

    need louvers ?
    Member


    Let me know how drilling and tapping goes with the stainless. I have thought of doing the same on several occasions but balked at my hatred of working the stuff, and I have to buy for two or three projects in the very near future. I believe the last time I bought, it was probably when steel was at some of the highest prices it was ever at. Hopefully when I call my wholesaler I'll find prices more in line with what you were quoted.
     
  8. I will let you know.
    I'll stop at the tooling shop and get some good bits and taps for it.
    Now if I can get them built without dinging the hell out of the tubes !!!
     
  9. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,476

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    You are going to need a collet type holder for your lathe, too much risk useing a 3 jaw on stainless and can wind up scarfing the OD when the tap load increases. Chuck speed is very important---too slow is just as bad as too fast.
    I prefer LPS brand Tapmatic dual action +#1 cutting fluid for stainless, I had to do around 100 8-32 blind taps in stainless-did it all with one tap and this fluid
     
  10. dirty old man
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 8,910

    dirty old man
    Member Emeritus

    Another favorite drilling and tapping fluid I've used often over the years is the grease that comes from frying bacon!!!!!!!!
     
  11. 1955IHC
    Joined: Aug 20, 2013
    Posts: 636

    1955IHC
    Member

    Sent via Illinois Bell Telephone Company's Car Radiotelephone
     
  12. I appreciate the insight.
    I'm not a machinist, so forgive the question - what's a collet holder.
    I have a lathe that came with literally 2000 lbs of tooling and 3 chucks
     
  13. A collet holder is what you'll find on your die grinders; it clamps on the entire surface.

    As a cheap alternative, line your lathe chuck jaws with some thin sheet aluminum.
     
  14. Beau
    Joined: Jul 2, 2009
    Posts: 1,884

    Beau
    Member

    7/8"x5/32 wall is $81.46/stick or $4.07/ft plus cuts.

    Depending on the stainless, I have seen Crisco used to stop thread galling. This was after using MANY different products without success.
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2013
  15. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 5,263

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    Best thing I've found for HAND tap in stainless is plain ol' grey never-seize.
    dave
     
  16. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,476

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    [​IMG]

    The collets are specfic to the dia of the stock and grip 98% of the material whereas a 3-jaw only touches 3 points. Since this is just tapping and does not have to be aerospace tollerance you could try and make some(or buy $45) aluminum soft jaws and bore them in the chuck to just under the material dia so that they will spring when you tighten the chuck to grip the material better
     

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