Interesting you should mention that....a few months ago I was talking to Squeeg, about paint types, and he mentioned that the thing he loves about acrylic enamel is that it STICKS.
It'll all stick, if ya prep it right. Why spend all the hours prepping, then shoot sub standard material on it has always baffled me !
At the time, I was painting my 57 suburban. It has a lot of painted surfaces...including the entire interior (minus the seat cushions). One of the tricky things is the headliner, which is not available as a reproduction, and it was originally painted, it's an embossed material. I don't know how you're supposed to "prep" it...I just scuffed it and shot the enamel over it, and it worked fine.
There is not a chance in hell that this is correct. PPG already has a couple "value" lines. They would never private label their prodcuts to another company that would compete with their own products. As for the debate in brand name vs no name. Does anyone really think that a major player, PPG, DuPont ect, that has billions of dollars invested into the quality and testing of their technology would have similar quality products as some no name mail order paint? You get what you pay for in life. Maybe it doesn't need to be the most expensive. But the bottom dollar price will never be the same quality product as the more expensive product. That new Chevy Impala isn't the same quality as the new Mercedes, right?
I'm using TCP acrylic enamel with urethane hardener right now, I love the gloss, it dries HARD though and seems to be a bit chippy. I have used acrylic urethane on another project and it definitely seems more durable.
anyone tried the TCP lacquer? I was thinking about spraying my tudor with some. I just like the lacquer paint it goes on so easy and is easy to repair. I sprayed my 37 Cadillac about 20 years ago with the Dupont lacquer and it still looks good. the car sits inside.
I sprayed this Chevy back in the Spring with Kirker Ultra Glo Single stage Urethane. It was a quick scuff and shoot over a Kirker enamel one stage sealer. I added some Urethane Clear into the last coat and a splash of slow urethane reducer. Sprayed it in my booth at home. I will be using Kirker again. Looks great for a driver. Materials were a couple hundred bucks.
I hate to burst your bubble but I know for a fact that paint companies private label their paint for people. Paint companies are not in the retail paint game and certainly not in the online retail paint game. Do you think a company like PPG or Dupont or SW is going to sit back while companies like Summit and TCP take sales away from them with a generic paint when they can sell them the paint with a different label and get the sales of both their branded and private label products. To use your car analysis Toyota makes Lexus, Toyota and Scion three different brands so they can get sales from 3 different market segments. You need to go back and read what I wrote. I said nothing about there not being different qualities of product what I said was that if I took two cans of Omni into a shop one with a PPG label and one with a Joes paint label a number of painters will argue that the PPG labelled product is better despite the fact that it is identical product.
I have a Omni mixing system and use it a lot. The coverage is not as good as PPG upper level paint, dbc dcc etc, but it works fine for me, and is about 1/3 the price. I was told by PPG rep that the chemistry is almost the same. I also have good luck with Omni primers, just my 2 cents
I would find a local jobber that sells automotive paints auto body supplies and would tend to stick with brand name products. As stated most major product line have more cost effective line also like shop line-Omni from PPG. With all the work that goes into a paint job use the best you can afford and use one product from wash primer to clear, study tech sheets stick to guide lines. After 25+ years in the autobody repair field I preferred PPG-Sikkens products as much for the service the jobber supplied as the product. Good prep-clean car and paint area will yield a good paint job. Good Luck!
I'm just bumping this thread to get a fresh take on the acrylic/urethane debate. Going to be painting soon and need to decide. It will be single stage, no BC/CC. Primary goal is a forgiving product that will be easier for a novice to spray. If mistakes occur, easier to repair. Looking for that heavier, more dense paint look of a 50's Ford. Shiny but not a lot of pop or depth.
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