GASSER MUST HAVES and cant haves?

Wouldn't a diagonal link turn your box into 2 triangles? I don't think I'd run one on the street, but I'm pretty sure they work on racecars.

A Watts Link would be pretty bullit proof on the street, if you have the room.

 

Yes it would there would be no side to side movement. They work fine on the street just need to add a brace to the ladder bar brackets for the extra load. I don't think they look right on an old school gasser but like a lot of other things they are the best way to go.

 

Quain, do you see any problems with a quarter eliptic set up like this? I'm assuming a panhard or watts link would still be needed.

MELTDOWN DRAGS
JULY 18-20 2014
www.meltdowndrags.com

 

No problem at all. As you know most of the high end gasser of the mid 60s had that set up. It will act like a coil spring or a leaf spring with a floater, no housing bind. My next car will have them because they scream old school.

 

Mazmanian ran a watts link with quarter eliptics ...

 

Most ran the springs on the same side of the axle as the ladder bars. Thats why I was wondering if making the front half of the spring a ladder bar would be any worse or better than this style

MELTDOWN DRAGS
JULY 18-20 2014
www.meltdowndrags.com

 

If you run them in front with a shackle mount as shown they'll work fine also. The shackle front or rear is needed with 1/4 eliptics. Your drawing with shackles in the rear looks as good a design as in front with shackles.

 

What year did rod ends start on ladder bars? When did floaters come into play? Thought about useing some on my leaf springs to keep any bind down.

 

Rear discs ???

 

Sure, why not? Lots of cars ran em. From my 1964 Midwest Auto Specialties Catalog

 

Speaking of rear discs, anybody got a set of brackets and rotors to mount these Hurst Airhearts to a 57 Pontiac rear?

 

I've not seen any, but they're pretty easy to build. I've cut them out of 3/8" or 1/2" steel plate, and just drill them to match the spacing on the axle flange. O get Speedway weld on brackets and weld them to the tube, then drill to match the Aireheart mounting pattern.
Rotors will usually be thin for an Airheart, so depending on your bolt pattern for your axles you can find donor rotors from modern cars to fit your pattern. Last ones I did on a Ford pattern used Crown Vic rotors that are about 1/2" thick. If you have small GM pattern, then look at various GM rotors with your bolt pattern.

 

Good info 1971BB427. Yeah it's the hats with the 5 on 5" bolt pattern and the correct depth that I really need to find. They show up for sale every so often, but are usually quite pricey. I have been told that the Wilwood setup for 57-64 Olds/Pontiac can be modified to work with my calipers, but I have not looked into it.



sent from my old computer on an old desk that now has brake fluid on it

 

Can you still buy pads for those calipers? If so, then you may want to find out how much clearance you have once the pads are installed, so you know rotor thickness. Once you have rotor thickness determined, then you can start narrowing down the 5 on 5" rotors that are the correct thickness to use. Many modern cars like large Chevy, or GM trucks '67-'72 used 5x5" pattern. Corvettes too. Something will work to fit your pattern.
The Speedway weld on brackets are about $20 a pair, and I've welded them on, or drilled them to bolt to the axle flange or spindle pattern. Then it's just getting the spacing for the bracket and welding, or cutting spacers from thick wall pipe to set the caliper location if you bolt them on.

 

Thanks for the info! Speedway has pads that work, but I hear the life of them is not too good. I've also got the complete vintage Airheart single piston front setup already so I may as well be completely antiquated, lol.

 

I think pad life on a hotrod that doesn't get a ton of miles wouldn't be a huge concern for me. And sometimes pads that wear a little quicker are easier on rotors, and brake better, so that's a plus.
A vintage looking rotor for Airheart would be a nicer look, if they can be seen in the rear. Might just have to keep up the search if it's something you'd really prefer.

 

Just curious do those take a solid or vented rotor and what size ?

 

If you click on Steve's post #2170 you can see the ad for the rotors. They were solid back then.

 

Yes, solid rotor .350" thick

 

Thanks I saw the add just not good enough on my wife's iPod, darn kids are on the computer. I take it you've searched for something close to work . What diameter?

 

I am considering these to keep my leafs with ladders.

 

Steve, Looks like you're missing a bottle opener

 

Here is another option to think about. I have used this type semi floater many times and they work fine. They are quiet, and your able to adjust the ride height of your car 2-3 inches.

 

Who makes those? Not building my Willys to be a period correct car, but I want it to look it to the average car guy. Just don want anything getting into a bind.

 

Jeg's sells them. Jegster 40603 Housing Floater Kit. $110.00

 

You can make a slide / floater system real easy that we use and it works good. Just drop a bracket down on each side of the spring with a hole above the spring and another below the spring with about an 1/8" clearance. Sort of like the 2 side brackets in the pic in post 2183. Make a piece of tubing for a crush sleeve between the bracket on each bolt. Now the spring is captured with the bracket on the sides and a bolt on top and bottom it will rotate and slide, works just like it has coil overs. I'll try to get pics if anyone is interest. Oh make sure you get about 1" ahead or behind the spring bolt because it will move about that much and the bolt will interfere.

 

Something like this ?

 

Exactly, Thanks Baron you saved me from crawling under my car and making a pic.

 

Thanks , what I was looking for, now when did people start useing floaters?

 

Kip, the "Tobasco" 55 Chevy c/gas car built at Blairs had a similar setup, but the leaf was anchored at the rear horn of the frame and the shackle was at the axle tube (more inherent lateral stability?)