Much to my wifes chagrin, I bought it. It has no engine or trans, most of the glass is fubar. All of the frame is solid. The body has penetrated rust in the folowing areas: passenger rockers, driver side below trunk lid and under tailight. The floor pans have minimal rust, but enough that I would put new pans in all. The doors hang up on the fenders, so the fenders and doors need adjustment and straightening. There is bit bit of crumple on the right front fender at the rocker line. All trim is there, and all hardware. Interior is original/shot. bumpers are one piece. I am obviously a novice, so I welcome any advice. Any suggestions for this build? I have pics, but can't figure out how to attach them, sorry! Charlie
first build? i always recommend to first time old vehicle buyers, if they get a project to have two of the following "areas" in good shape; body, interior, and drivetrain..... your batting 0 for 3.
About 5 years ago I started with almost the same thing, only a non-running 216 and manual trans in the car. Took those out and gave them away! Then, the car sat, I lost some interest, so I gave it to my nephew. We then used my newly rebuild 350 sitting on an engine stand, one of my built Powerglides and stall converters, a 56 rear end with a 4.88, Positaction, 3rd member, and a good chunk of my $$$$$. All new power-train, brakes, wiring, lights, big-n-little Cragar SS wheels and tires, shocks, new gas tank, battery in the trunk, one piece windshield, and the list goes on. Now, the nephew seems to be losing interest, but he can't sell the car. The deal was, it comes back to me if he does't want it any longer. The ONLY rust through this 51 Bus Coupe has is on the rear panel where the butt for the jack mounting is welded in. There's a huge amount of surface rust, as it sat in a barn for 40 years or so. So, don't give up on that car, if it starts to wear on you, step back and take a break, Once it's up and running, you will be happy as you're driving down the road with people pointing, looking, and giving the thumbs up. It sounds like the rust through is going to be your biggest issue; EMS has the replacement body parts. There's a ton of info on the HAMB about these 49-54 Chevrolets. Might want to check out the 49-54 forums over on ChevyTalk.Org also. Butch/56sedandelivery
There is no question that building a car takes time, money and and a lot of hard work. I find one reason is that many people just don't realize the amount of time it takes to complete a project from start to finish. Another important think is the persons age and health play a large roll in completing a project. It's not as easy when you are near 70 as it was when you were near 40 to do it. Many guy's just don't want to spend the next few years building the car of there dreams in their garage. The last reason is and I hate to say it but today you can purchase a finished car for less then the time and money it takes you to built one. It's just the way it is right now! If you really enjoy saying I built my own car go for it and try and make it fun along the way. Just my opinion. Jimbo
The closer I get to 70, the more I want to build my own. I have a 1950 GMC, that I built in my garage. V8, auto, MII, D44 etc., so I am not completely new at this, not even counting the 1960's and 70's projects. I though a couple of you might offer not only encouragement, but suggestions. Those stainless panels in front of the rear fenders; scrap those? Leave the badges, or remove them and fill the holes? 4 link or traditional springs? Whose? Dark metallic gray, or maroon? (PO primered it white.) Salt wheels, rally, or stock? Thanks!
Wow, sounds pretty rough rust-wise, especially for Arizona. However, if you concentrate on one area at a time, things will get done far quicker than if you kept staring at the entire picture, which can make a first project seem overwhelming. Pick which area is doable and most important at this point. I have a little formula I have used over the years which seems to work out okay. I start with making it roll/steer/brake properly (suspension and undercarriage). Then making it run (engine and trans). Then making it pretty (body and paint). Then making it comfortable (interior). I might switch things around a bit, like doing the interior 3rd if the body isn't completely rotted or smashed. But I try not to do anything on the car that would need to be reversed to get something else done, which just eats up time and effort. Like, if I did the interior, then decided to chop it. Get a solid plan of what exactly you'd like to do with this car, then go about it piece by piece to make it happen. I will tell you I have been working on my buddy's '50 Fleetline, and we just installed a front Jag XJ6 suspension. It fit like it belonged in there, and I personally believe they are the way to go for these Chevys. Big twin piston disc brakes, great ride, parts availability, and even has the Chevy bolt pattern. We scored the whole shebang from the boneyard for 80 bucks.
"Much to my wifes chagrin, I bought it." More than the condition of the car this is where you should worry. Why? Because she can make your life a living hell and eventually get her way when you sell the car, likely for less than you paid for it. Been there done that; it SUCKS. Get her on board someway, somehow. Women like attention, shop widows are rarely happy. Bright side is, here in illernoise that's a helluva good car. First get an outline of what you want the project to look like DONE and what you can do and what you can't to make that happen. Get her to work with you on the budget for this. If you have kids try to involve them; safety being paramount. And print and re-read don-vee's post. Easier to get motivated on a running, driving car that you can enjoy together. And POST PICS!!!! Or it didn't happen
Yes, pics would be great! Just hang in there and go step by step.Here´s what I usually do, when I start a full build. First step would be to imagine, what your car is supposed to look like in the end. A custom, gasser, stocker? Or somewhere in between? Next is to learn how to weld, replace the rotten sheetmetal and get the body ready for paint. After that have the frame blasted, add new bushings everywhere, maybe MII, maybe straightaxle, air bags, just what you need. Now you should have a body on a rolling frame ready for paint. While you´re getting the body painted, you could build your engine and drivetrain. After that, you´re ready for interior. So it really depends on what you can do yourself and how you want it to be done. I for example can weld and fix sheetmetal, I can build engines and transmissions, but I suck at stitching,sanding and painting.... Depends on what you want, and how you can do it...
Sounds like the condition my 52 was in when I got it. It was my first project, learned a lot along the way (6 years worth!). Good luck and have fun! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
There's a British HAMBER doing the same thing with a 4 door; I don't remember the year, 49-52 for sure. It is a rusted out almost hulk, and he's doing a bang up job bringing it back. Butch/56sedandelivery.
LOL toughnut...it's easier at 70, you KNOW what you want, no changing directions mid-stream. I built this one: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=329070&highlight=the+best+55+caddy+build beginning at age 62...took me 5 1/2 years of weekends, never once strayed from what I had envisioned. Oh wait, I did change my mind on the paint, once... I can't offer much in the way of advice since I'm not an early Chevy fanatic, but I can wish you good luck on the build (PS, I just turned 70)... And if you want to post large photos in your build thread, get yourself a photobucket account...it's free if you don't use a bunch of their bandwidth... R-
Hi I'm the British Hamber whose taken on the mammoth job, me and my best mate Jon whose got a 46 fleetmaster are both plugging away at ours, like someone else put, don't look at it as one big job do one job at a time and you will get there eventually, check out my build thread on here '1951 chevrolet styleline build thread' then you will see what you need to do, I must say that it helps some much to have someone to help out if you have mates that are building a rod too!! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Toughnut: You wrote the following, The closer I get to 70, the more I want to build my own. I have a 1950 GMC, that I built in my garage. V8, auto, MII, D44 etc., so I am not completely new at this, not even counting the 1960's and 70's projects. I am glad to hear that you are still able to do what you do. For the past 15 years arthritis has taken it toll on my body and after two operations and taking injections of arthritis fighting drugs for the past 10 years I cannot no longer do many of the things I used to. Good luck with your projects. Jimbo
Hey!, Thanks for all the great info and encouragement. Especially Jimbo17, Baumi, don-vee, and 56sedandelivery, in no particular order. Since I did gather a bit of interest, let me expose a couple of things. I am very reluctant to tell of my plans for this car because of the slamming I took when I wrote a slight bit about my 1950 GMC. For some it's almost to the point where even the wiring must be cloth covered, and not modern. Since this is now posted in Traditionally "styled" hot rods, maybe I can get away with exposing my intentions. Here is my experience and intentions.... Two years back I bought a 1950 Studebaker Champion Starlight coupe from Hamb member "Shifts" It was paid for in full and I sent a car carrier to pick it up. He had told me it was now a roller and ready to go. The transporter was sent home. He stonewalled me over and over until a year later he returned my $$.(asshole) In the mean time I had purchased a 86 C4 IFS, and a 9"Ford rear end; and a few other parts at various deals. I kept looking for another 50 Champion, but gave up and started looking for a Chevy or Olds that would work with my desires. I found this 1951 Styleline Deluxe Coupe that the PO had started on but lost interest. All the parts are in baskets and the minimal rust has been cut for panels. The rust is not bad; it's an Arizona car. The original engine and trans has been removed. Good! I intend to , aahem!, install an L92, and 6L80E, engine and trans. I hope I don't get screamed at for that. MII front suspension seems to be tollerated now, as does Jag fronts, but I think it depends on who posts about it. I won't be using a MII, or Jag; I'll be using that 86 C4 front I bought for the Stude. Maybe with a local made xmember and maybe with a Progressive. I intend the rear to be a narrowed 9" Ford with tires and wheels that fit inside the stock wheelwells. I've let that cat out of the bag. I hope I don't get stomped on as before. As for the car itself, I envision a light custom by removing badges and fender gravel guards. I don't want the bumperettes on the front, to give it a wider look, but intend to use them on the back to trim it up a bit with chrome. I want to lower the rear about 2 inches, and the front about three inches. Lower but a bit aggressive, don't you think? The first thing I want to do is get the frame rolling with it's new pinnings. Any experienced advice that I can get on rear suspension would be greatly appreciated. I have been looking back and forth at parallel 4 bar and triangulated four bar so much that I am totally confused. My sense of geometry tells me that both the triangulated systems and the parallel four bars bind at best. I wonder about the correct geometry being in a "universal" kit by Welders Series, or Chevs of the 40's. Who knows for sure? My wife, while not thrilled is going along with this, and of course the important thing to her is the choice of color. I have my mind swirling about dark metallic maroon and two tone grey. Go Figure. Okay boys, have any suggestions now? I will try to get some pics posted tomorrow. Molon Labe
You ain't gonna catch any crap from me about running a modern engine in that ride. While I love and appreciate traditional powerplants, I also am a realist and understand why they're not for everyone. This certainly doesn't sound like you just fell off the turnip truck, it sounds like you're starting to get a solid plan together. Excellent. That C4 front isn't too wide? I figured it'd be a monster in that 51. Good plan on getting your wife in on the color idea. Don't stop there, get her involved in a lot of the decision making over little details. No, she might not have an opinion on suspension pieces, or what pressure you should be running your fuel pump, but she will definitely appreciate picking out some little bits-n-pieces that give her the sense that this is part her project as well. She may surprise you with solid opinions on cosmetic detail. Hold up a couple window cranks and ask which one she likes better and why. I'm not saying to patronize her, I'm saying to ask her for real opinions, and ask her if she'd like to help. Maybe she wants to find out how something works. When I first met my wife, she was the opposite of a gearhead. Not that she hated it, it just wasn't even on her radar. I was the first boyfriend she ever had that was into cars. Little by little, as we went to more and more car shows together, I saw her interest grow and her opinions on certain cars start to develop. The first car she saw at a show and asked, "Whoa, what is THAT?" was a VW Squareback. She had to have one, and so it was. She was hooked. One day, she wanted to know how welding works, so I gave her a quick lesson with my wire feed buzzbox and she loved it. It's not just to shut her up, either. I love the fact that she's involved. Now she understands why I love this hobby so much, and I want her to love it as much as I do.
[My wife's a bit of a car person. She had a Mustang when we got married, and drives a Corvette now. No mini-vans for her. She just doesn't like "stuff" around. If it sits on the table over an hour, you'll be searchin for it in the dumpster. The C4 front narrows to 58" WMS, using a Tbird rack. That's within an inch of stock, so I think I'm okay. I am thinking that I will narrow the rear to 57". I intend to run Rocket Igniters 8x15 with 3.75 backspace. I think that will keep the tires pretty much centered in the wheel wells @ 2" low. Too much math!
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