Can I get some opinions.

It's a rat rod ,then it's not,you're interested in the flathead ,then you really don't like the flathead. Son ,set down and think about it. That would be a good starting point.
hang in there ,it will come to you.. good luck!!

 

Bobacuda... I have done a cylinder leak check on it. On two cylinders it has very very little bit of air getting by the rings. I think on three of the other cylinders it has a little air getting by the intake valve,and the exhaust valve. So I know I am losing some of my power there. Im just trying to figure out if its wroth it for me personally to put the money in it,and not be happy with it. But I came to a decision....If I want a hot rod I will buy one. This is a bad ass cruising bomber,and that's what it is going to be. So i'm going with the flat head. I can not see tearing the integrity of this car away. The history of these cars are dying off. The only thing that I need to check into now is finding a way to get a little more power from the flat head,and making it more road trip friendly. Thanks to everyone for the help to decide what way to go.

 

I thought I was going to love the uniqueness of the flat head in my car when I go it. That lasted about 6 months then I ripped all of it out for a V8. Cool to look at but not for me. I know others love them and that's awesome just not for me.

 

A 318 would probably be better off with a 904.

 

I would simply mount a Toronado motor/trans in the rear (with a front motor mount), that way you could leave the flathead under the hood for the looks that you desire and you would also have similar power to the hopped up camaro trans am's that you are used to.

 

If I read your posts right, you re-ringed the motor, and haven't run it yet. If that is the case then the rings have absolutely not seated, and your compression will be down some. An engine needs to run for a short while to seat the rings.

 

I was going to say "Like a 2CV with one fouled plug." Then I remembered: it's slower than that.

Seriously, I'd not take it near a highway.

Cosmo

 

ML -I agree with Ebbspeed. Run the engine and let the rings set. As far as highway speeds, my '53 Dodge has been driven all over Texas, wailing away on the interstate. I drove my '51 Plymouth to Upper Michigan and back to south central Texas - on the interstates as much as possible, rolling at least 70. Made the return trip driving straight through, stopping for gas, food and the Rest Area. No problems. Your car won't keep up with a 2013 Charger, but who cares?

Do a search on http://p15-d24.com/ for the two guys that drove a Dodge like yours to the Artic Circle last year - the photos alone are worth looking it up.

 

This is total BS.

The Fluid Drive will slow it down some compared to a standard dry clutch but still serviceable. I have a 230 from a 57 Dodge in my 48 Plymouth coupe with a 53 Plymouth Borg Warner OD transmission. I can run it at 65-70 down the freeway all day long with the stock 4.10 gear. I drive my car in Dallas traffic all the time with NO issues getting on the highways.

Am I going to win any drag races? No unless it is against a similar vintage Ford or Chevy. The choice is yours, but I can tell you that a nice flathead is going to garner a ton more interest than another 350.

As for parts availability, the flathead Mopar was used up into the early 70's in fork lifts, airport tugs, trucks, combines, welders, irrigation pumps etc. so you can get about anything you need at NAPA or one of the big box stores. The longest I had to wait for a part from NAPA was overnight as they pulled it from the local warehouse.

This is my second 48 Plymouth coupe. I had a 383 / 727 in the first one and with this one I stuck with the flathead. Two totally different cars but I am happy with my decision to stay with the flathead.

 

The flathead is almost as easy to get parts for as a Chev, and they are cheaper. Seriously, Vintage Power Wagons has all the parts you need including brand new, old stock pistons for $75 a set of 6. How good do you want it?

Way cheaper and easier to keep the flathead. If you have done the rings and valves, and checked or replaced the bearings ( plastigage is your friend) you should be good to go for another 30,000 to 50,000 miles.

The Fluid Drive transmission used by Dodge was a cross between a standard and an automatic. You have a 3 speed, manual trans and clutch with a Fluid Drive unit . All very simple, tough, trouble free and long living units.

The Fluid Drive is like a torque converter. If you want you can shift into High with the car parked, and drive around like an automatic. This will be extremely slow but if you feel lazy you can do it. For everyday driving start off in second then go into high. You can use low gear too, but you don't really need it most of the time.

The Fluid Drive Dodge was a little on the slow side compared to say, a flathead Ford V8 but has plenty of power for all normal driving and will cruise at 60 all day, with a top speed of about 90.

Some guys add the usual hop up tricks like dual carbs, dual exhaust, cam, milled head for more compression etc.

O by the way, you are supposed to check the Fluid Drive fluid every 10,000 miles. You do not need to change it, just top it up.

Access to the FD is through the floor boards. Roll back the carpet and you will find a removable plate under the dash board, on the right side of the driveshaft tunnel. Under it you will see a round hole plug in the bellhousing. Pry it out. Bump the starter (key) until the plug comes into view. Unscrew the plug and pour in straight #10 motor oil, or TDH fluid until it is full. When you take out the plug, stuff a rag around the hole so you can't drop the plug in the hole.

Instead of #10 a lot of guys use TDH tractor fluid, ISO 22 or ISO 32 grade. You can get it at Walmart, farm supply and auto parts stores. It is made for transmision, differential and hydraulics on tractors.

Transmission takes 80 gear oil and is checked separately like any manual trans.

Good luck, you should have a lot of nice drives with that car. The engine and trans are the least of your worries.

 

If you HAVE to do a V8 swap, at least put in a 273, 318 or a 360. You can find these just as cheaply as a 350 any day of the week. Or if you really want to fuck with people, throw a 289 or a 302 in there. ANYTHING but a Chevy. It's so overdone!

 

I know exactly how slow that is through bitter experience. How do you know living over there in the land of the V8???

 

I helped a guy put a SBC in a 1941 Dodge coupe many years ago, and it was a nightmare if I remember right,.... It seems to me the steering box (or steering / Front suspension) caused a big problem,... (This was decades ago and I can't remember exactly what the issue was)... All I can remember is, We got it done, But for some reason it was a big pain in the neck !