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How to straighten a crease

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Gus68, Dec 1, 2013.

  1. Gus68
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 470

    Gus68
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Hey guys. I'm no body man by any means, but I am trying to learn a few things. I have been reading and googleing about how to pound out or pull out a dent, but what I cant seem to find is what's the best way to get a crease out. What I have is a pretty good crinkle in the quarter panel on my 62 chevy. Not so much dents but a couple of good sharp creases. Any body have any info or know where to find any info on this? Or do you treat it just like a dent? Thanks guys!
     
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,942

    squirrel
    Member

    pictures?

    If the metal got stretched, then it can be tricky. If it's just dented, then treat it like a dent.
     
  3. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey,

    Creases usually contain a good amount of stretched metal, that is to say metal that is thinner in some places, unlike the surrounding metal. Useing the same methods to straighter a crease, that you would use to straighten a simple dent, may cause you some major headaches!:( Stretch type dents usually require heat, in the form of a torch or friction disc to correct.

    It's been a whyle since I've beatin on a '62 Chevy, but I remember those quarter panels being pretty flat. Without a picture of the damaged panel, I'd jus be pissing in the wind to offer much repair advise.:eek:

    " Do not be too quick to drink the Kool-Aid "
     
  4. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Bump it out, and hit it with a shrinking disc, on a grinder.
     

  5. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,657

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    There are some great videos on Youtube about paintless dent removal showing some pretty nasty dents being ironed out including creases.

    The same technique will work on your car except it will take more force because the metal is thicker. In other words you will be hitting the same spots in the same way except with a hammer instead of a rubber tipped stick.

    In severe cases you can shrink the metal by heating then suddenly cooling, along with a little hammer and dolly work on the hot metal.
     
  6. falconsprint63
    Joined: May 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,358

    falconsprint63
    Member
    from Mayberry

  7. rob bob
    Joined: Aug 18, 2011
    Posts: 446

    rob bob
    Member
    from Canyon TX

    A good slap file and a little bit of time, you would be surprised with the how it turns out.
    If you can bump the crease out a little, then lightly hit it with the slap file.
     
  8. Gus68
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 470

    Gus68
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Well I apologise for no pics. I have tryied in the past to post and I just can't figure it out. I don't think it is my computer, I think it's operator error! Sorry. Anyway, I appreciate all the responses. I'm not sure if this can be pounded out, I might have to replace the quarter. I was just hoping it could be fixed. I have had 2 guys I know who do body work tell me it could be done, but they are both WAY busy to get at it. I was toying with the idea of trying it myself, figured if I mess it up I'll have to replace it, so I got nothing to lose. Just wondering what all is involved. Thanks again!!!
     
  9. k9racer
    Joined: Jan 20, 2003
    Posts: 3,091

    k9racer
    Member

    Pull or bang it in or out the best that you can. Try to get as close to the original contour as possible..Then use filler to finish the job. Its been done that way you decades.. Some mud is thicker than other................................... One way to help your skills is find some old non repairable metal and pratice with heat and shrinking.. I use a torch and a spray bottle. ............................ Another trick is find some late model junk Tell the body shop personal what you are doing and the will give you a few peices to play with.and try to straighten with a heat gun. with and without water.. I also use a wet rag ...You will be suprised how easy it is to correct some dents. Good Luck Bobby..
     
  10. ehdave
    Joined: Feb 28, 2009
    Posts: 119

    ehdave
    Member

  11. gold03
    Joined: Oct 11, 2009
    Posts: 84

    gold03
    Member

    My 49 door had a vertical 1/4 wide 1/4 deep crease about 8 inches long. I welded rod to the bottom of the crease to pull on, and hammer dolly, shrink, repeat to fix it. Next time I see one of these I will cut the area out and slowly weld in a patch. I spent two months dinging on that fender. Shrinking that crease back into the panel was a pile of work. Getting that much shrink was tough. The dome door skin wanted to collapse and oil can a lot. The other option would have been to cut the bottom of the crease with a thin blade grinder, hammer and dolly the remainder of the crease, then weld with more hammer and dolly work.
     
  12. gold03
    Joined: Oct 11, 2009
    Posts: 84

    gold03
    Member

    The book In the link above is very helpful. Good place to start. Some based panels to practice on is really needed though.
     
  13. have the "oil can" thing myself......
     
  14. Bump and shrink, bump and shrink, bump and shrink...
     
  15. Bump Stop
    Joined: Aug 25, 2013
    Posts: 51

    Bump Stop
    BANNED
    from USA

    Bondo...I can't believe no one has suggested it sooner.
     

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