Hello, I've got a basically stock 283 about 1963 vintage in my roadster. I installed a Speedway beehive remote oil filter along with the oil filter bypass which goes where the original canister type filter was mounted. Used AN 6 hoses. My oil pressure has dropped from about 40 psi to a little over 20 psi. I imagine this has to do with the size of the restrictor holes in the beehive filter vs the type of restrictor in the original set up. Is this lower pressure a problem? I drive pretty easy because its got a 39 ford tranny and model a rear end and wouldn't hold up to much hot rodding.
Where does your gauge pressure sender mount? Before or after the filter? Before the filter, should be no problem, the new one is just less restrictive. If the sender is after the filter, the new setup is restricting flow and not letting as much pressure through, i would worry about this. Joe
I'd think Joe hit in that the new setup isn't quite as restrictive pressure wise as the stock filter was. My only question is: Are you using a quality filter in your beehive such as a Wix or Napa Gold? The difference in the filter it's self may cause a pressure difference.
I've only seen the beehive filters in pics and a few @ cruise in shows, so I don't really know much if anyting about them except what they look like. But my question is: Is this by any chance a bypass type filter and you are trying to use it as a full flow?
Thanks for the info guys, The cartridge that came with the beehive filter is the one that's in there now. Don't know too much about it, just that Speedway supplied it with the beehive canister. My oil pressure gauge had always been in the same spot, hooked into a small tapped hole in the rear top portion of the block The Speedway adapter that the Speedway tech told me to buy is an oil filter "bypass" so I don't think this is a full flow setup. I believe this set up I have now is just an extension of whatever the stock set up was. It bolts on to the block where the original canister filter was and there are 2 hoses, supply and return that run up to the behive which is mounted on the firewall.
AN6 is small compared to the size of lines used in most remote coolers nowdays. Seems like some added junk, just for looks. Id rather have a nice flowing oil system. The lifeblood my motor being pushed through a 3/8th line...umm no. Especially with a small block, compared to a flathead, per say.
The Beehive oil filter was not intended to be a full flow oil filter. That type filter was used as an add on filter for engines that did not come with a filter from the factory. These filters were plumbed in a port or T fitting for the gauge and the return line went into the crankcase or was dumped in the lifter valley. If you want to use the filter as a full flow type you should use 1/2 lines and make sure all fittings are for 1/2 inch and not use any reducers. Without the filter bypass you should make sure the oil is warmed up before driving or use 5-30 oil. If you are plumbed into the gauge fitting that will make your gauge reading lower. You may need to find another port for the gauge. JMO
A retired co-worker/ friend of mine had one installed in his '32 pickup with a SBC. He ended up taking it off because of a big drop in oil pressure.
it may be so restrictive it is causing the oil pump by-pass valve to open, like with a plugged oil filter. that causes lower oil pressure.
Was there a problem or concern that caused you to want to eliminate the stock filtration system??? If not....I'd just put it back the way GM designed it
Nope,I had no real reason to replace the stock oil filter. Just wanted extra "bling", extra "junk" to look cool. I started out by getting an old cast aluminum ignition coil holder that had "fins" on it and was polished up. Next I got the beehive filter because it kind of matched the ignition coil holder and added stainless steel braid hoses with red and blue AN fittings for more junky bling. After spending a bundle to get the black powder coating removed from the beehive so it's just plain aluminum finish I'm into this whole set up about 5 bills. I like the look of the whole thing now with the 283 with 3 twos. Now just as soon as I can get the oil leaks around the made in taiwan oil filter bypass fixed I'll be on the road if it warms up above 18 degrees here. Now the big questions is Does anyone know for certain how the oil flows through this 1963 283 engine and filter and is 20 pounds of oil pressure going to be ok?
Adding a remote oil filter or cooler adds a huge amount of additional area for the oil system to cover. I don't think that modification is a good idea unless it's absolutely necessary. Since you now have lower oil pressure, you have created a problem. That stock oil pump was never designed to handle that. If you still want to use a remove filter, you should upgrade to a high volume pump & a bigger pan. That's the problem with engine modifications. A single modification usually needs another to support it. Also, a restriction causes oil pressure to climb, not drop
I think the intent of that filter, when installed on a "modern" engine that already has a full flow filter, is purely cosmetic. In other words, don't connect the beehive filter to the engine, just run the hoses down to the back of the engine and let them hang there. Leave the original filter on the engine, and leave the plumbing as it was from the factory.
If you just gotta run the thing here's my suggestion, to run it as a bypass filter like it was intended, but as an additional filter along with the stock full flow filter. Remove that remote adaptor and reinstall the oem adaptor and full flow filteer. Then install a tee in the oil pressure outlet behind the inake on top of the block. Put your oil pressure sender, or oil line to the gauge if you're using a mechanical gauge in one hole, and a line to the beehive in the other. You''ll need to install a restrictor in this line to regulate the flow of oil thru the filter, and you need to devise a way to easily change the size of the orifice. I'd start with maybe a .060 hole and that should work. Remember, this is a bypass filter, and it WILL bleed off pressure if you make the orifice too large.The return line can pour the oil back into the engine via a bung tnserted into side of oil fill pipe or a hole drilled and tapped into a spot on the intake mainfold that will reach into valley without hitting other passages. A bypass filter is intended to thoroughly filter only a small portion of thje oil flowing through the engine while the rest is flowing through the full flow filter, which is designed to accomadate the flow of all the oil, but not filter to such a fine degree of filtration. Using that beehive as a full flow filter will cause an oil starving codition in the engine and lots of trouble.
And...the old 283 has the best stock setup with the big can type filter...it has substantially more capacity than the later disposable and does less bypassing. When Chevy went to disposable filter in '69 or so, they actually kept the old setup with a special mount for police, Taxi, and truck use...
DING, DING, DING, WINNER, WINNER, WINNER. Remove and sell the remote filter setup, things WILL return to normal. Also, most of the oil filter adapter kits, made to add a spin-on filter where a cannister filter had been on a SBC/BBC, had to use a FORD filter, with an internal bypass valve, as that feature got deleted with removing the stock bypass part. If you really want the beehive filter for "looks", then maybe convert it to use as a fuel filter. Butch/56sredandelivery.
Let's start with the basics. A 1963 283 would have originally had this oil filter mount. It pushes all of your oil through the filter but has a bypass valve built into it so that if your oil filter gets plugged, oil will still flow get to the bearings. According to your other post, you used a Trans-dapt 1018 adapter like this. I know they call it a bypass adapter on their web site, but unless there is some sort of bypass valve underneath that doesn't show in the picture, this will pass all your oil through your filter all the time and you need a full flow filter to handle that. Your -6 lines and Beehive filter will not! One other point is that Trans-dapt list the 1018 adaptor as being for 68 and up blocks and the 1017 adaptor being the correct one for the 67 and earlier blocks like yours. http://www.tdperformance.com/Bolt-On-Oil-Filter-Bypass-Adapters
I did a search here and found an old post by Bob K where he is using a Beehive as a full flow filter, but he made some mods to increase the flow through the filter. Where he says he is using 1/2 inch lines that would be AN -8. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3116212&
I was wondering if anyone would speak up in favor of the old style canister filter. I have '58 283 in my '36. I took great pains toward restoring the engine to factory specs...including retaining the canister filter. (My intention was to have the installation appear to have been done when those engines could had for $25.00 from a wrecker) As a kid I owned my share of early SBC's with these things and have never had any bad luck with them leaking and, of course, I agree with Bruce on the extra capacity aspect....The more filtration, the better. My engine runs about 75-80 lbs when first started up, 65-70 lbs after warm and after a long haul it'll drop to around 50 at an idle.
OK, Great, thanks everyone. We're getting some good info here. I did get the wrong adapter from Speedway. I got the one with 5/16 bolts not 1/4. It also has no type of a bypass built into it. I think I'll go back to the original set up and make sure everything is ok. And see if I still have 40 lbs oil pressure. Hope I haven't done any damage. I can't take the hoses off and let them hang behind the engine. That's too phony. That's like having 3 twos and having the end ones blocked off and just running on the center one, like this car is now. (I bought it that way) Why did I ever get this idea
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