I just bought a 61 Chevy bubbletop that was going to be my Last car and I wanted it to be the best one I ever bought. .When it got here the transporter had to jump start it to get it off the truck. Not a good start!. You can see in the pictures how someone did a "superb" job of wiring it. Can anyone explain why the fuse was inserted in the wiring next to the fenderwell? As much as I paid for it,I didn't expect any problems with it.I'm wondering if the wires that I can see are done this poorly,should I rewire the whole car? I was also told that the non power steering is tight but I can move the steering shaft back and forth enough to move the steering wheel 6-8 inches.....It also has one heck of an oil leak probably helped along by the smashed oil pan. A lot of you know that I am 64 years old and should know better than to buy a car w/out a thorough inspection but I bought this from a supposedly reputable rod shop owner.And yes I am a complete MORON,An idiot and whatever negative name you can think of.(let the bashing begin)
Why are you being so Negative about a few Old Car issues? You didn't expect it to be like Brand New did you? Deal with a few small issues and go be happy. The Wizzard
Your not a idiot and when you buy from a "reputable rod shop' you do expect better than average work. If it were me,I would rewire the entire car,what is visible could be a indication of shoddy wiring elsewhere. Don't beat yourself up,,if the wiring is the only problem you will be able to enjoy the car for years to come. HRP
I was told once that we are never to Old to learn 1 more lesson. When spending a Lot of $$$ on anything it should also include 1 of the following. A road trip A train ride An airplane ride Or a buss trip Sorry your unhappy with your purchase. Maybe it's time for a phone call to the "Professional" The Wizzard
If I'm not wrong, that hinky terminal plugs into the alternator, right? I'm betting that's the root of your no-start. Redo that plug, charge the battery and I'm bettin' you're good to go. If I'm wrong, well, you got your money's worth from me! Just a thought .... could be a crap battery.
That "taped-in" fuse ain't pretty. Appears that there MAY be a total of three strands of copper in that big, red wire that got crimped into that connector. Do some investigating. Car LOOKS nice. DD
If it were me and I had any question what so ever I would rewire , especially since this is that 'forever' car. $ 400.00 bucks or so and a couple days work and you have the confidence in every single circuit and wire. Great winter project. Inline fuses are not all that uncommon, I had an undash A/C unit that came with one, I wired direct to my panel and removed the inline.
A few new wire connections and you are good to go. The alternator connection can be replaced with a new pigtail that has been properly crimped. As far as the oil leak, well the pan doesn't look that bad, but the bell housing cover looks all dented up. What color oil is it leaking? Is that a TH350 or TH400 for a transmission?
American Auto Wire will be your friend. Using their set up you can do it your self. Pull the seats first thing.
the bright side is you got a 61 bubble top ....nice looking car ....wire it and fix the oil leak ...oh and the stearing ....then you have a nice ol chevy ...
I agree with at least going through and checking the wiring. The fuse is probably there in order to keep from frying what ever it is attached to. It is probably for something that is aftermarket and doesn't have a spot in the panel. They definitely could have made it look a little nicer though. Whoever it was that said if what you can see is bad, then the hidden things are probably worse Is a very smart fella. You can always take apart a late 90s to early2000s gm fuse panel and hide it somewhere for your aftermarket panel. They are easy to come by and cheap. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Id just make some notes take some pix ~ contact ur seller and explain what u expected for what u paid (which u say is a lot). A "reputable" seller woul try and find a solution. Oil leak seems reason enough to at least see what they say. Good luck it could be worse
As for the alternator wire, that (unfortunately) is pretty common. Guys push in the little clip then pull on the wires, and instead of putting on a new end, they jam the wires back in. As for the inline fuse, yes, taped in isnt really profesional looking, but on the flip side, at least hes putting in fuses.
I'm getting in on this cause honestly, i don't understand the mindset of paying big bucks for something without a thorough inspection and driving it. Taking another's word an "reputation," is a copout for responsibility. Guess as the saying goes u got what u paid for literally. I work in a rod shop and have dealt with complaints such as yours. Always my first question is "didn't you know what u were getting into?" Reputable or not if I'm unsure bout something I get a second opinion. The guy on the other end wanted to sell you a car. After he bs'd his product and hooked u, he then took your money. I so have empathy for you. However I'm usually kicking myself cause I missed something huge during the inspection and was to cocky to as for a second opinion. Sorry for the issues (as small as they are) now I'm off my soapbox
I disagree. You can complain all you want but the seller doesn't have to be responsible for crap without a personal or paid inspection.
It's always sad when someone get's taken for a Ride. But honestly, isn't it your own personal responsibility to make sure your getting what You expect? I do not believe it's the sellers responsibility to rise to your expectations. It's always Buyer be ware isn't it? The Wizzard
I don't know what you paid for it but if it was less than 5 digits, I wouldn't be too upset with what you got. I don't own a shop because mostly I wouldn't let something sell without everything perfect but that would have me asking for 20K or more per car, depending on the work. If you paid less than 10K, and the guts of the car is mechanically sound, take it as small projects that need attention. I would put wiring on the top of the list of things to do and with good instructions it shouldn't take more than a weekend to get it done, maybe get some pizza and friends to help. That would be fix #1 and then the leak. It's looks like a decent enough car and I really can't give a better answer than that without knowing what you spent. As always, "caveat emptor" buyer beware. Oh, and if it was what I really wanted and mostly in decent shape, mechanically intact and mostly working, I could see spending over 7K even with the issues it has. Luckily I am not shopping for any more projects.
I was just thinking on this and remembered my buddy got a decent truck, came over to have me look at something under the car... I can't remember what it was. I squeeze my head under the step and start laughing... a license plate was used as part of the body work repair in the cab corner! He put a motor and trans in it within a year and did a lot of other work to make it driveable and I don't know what he paid for it but I am sure it wasn't cheap. It looks good and it drives good now and that license plate is still in there.
Yup,Thats the one...Thanks for letting me vent a little guys.I know its my own fault for believing the seller. Realizing that its my own fault,I didn't mention that the front shocks are shot(one little push down and the car bounces 3 times)nor did I mention the ripped back seat , the orange peel paint ,the title that's not in the sellers name(or state)etc,etc. I could not feel any worse than I already do no matter what some of you say. Maybe I was giving my last chance at redemption for the human race (or the car salesman.)??
I'd fix the alt connector with a new properly crimped one. As to the inline fuse, the first thing i thought it was maybe a "maxi" fuse for the system instead of a fusable link.Where does that wire go? What does the rest of the wiring look like? Inspect and if the alt is the only problem fix it and be done. When ever I buy a rod or old car,I just figure it needs rewiring unless I inspect it and pay accordingly. Mine had an oil leak up front that the "mechanic" had fixed by siliconing the crap around the timing cover/ oil pan seal.....I found the short bolt that leads to the fuel pump shaft was missing....oil leak fixed with short bolt. Main wire from alt run under the side of the engine out of sight....nice,but the insulation was just about burned through where it touched the header. All fun stuff fixing a newly purchased car
The terminal that's sticking out of the alternator connector body is not the correct one. As mentioned earlier, good parts store should have a new connector 'pigtail' to splice into your harness, and you already have the split loom to cover it. Simple!
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