Rounding up parts to put a T5 behind the 261 in our '53 sedan, have two trans, has the one already had the input shaft and collar shortened? It's quite a bit shorter than the other???
I will have to look up the numbers on the bellhousing to see what exactly it is...it fits the front of the trans and bolts up to the six cylinder, its a 6 cylinder bell of some kind...
That's interesting about the jeep I'll have to see if I can some numbers on the case. How far into the pilot bushing does the input have to go? I don't have any pilot bushing so I'm making one on the lathe. Gonna go to the tech archives now and see if any of this is covered.
if you were to measure the tip of the T5 and any 3 or 4 spd that would have been behind that engine, you would find them to be the same diameter, so why make a new pilot bushing from scratch? you could just use any 6cyl or V8 bushing from the 1980's on back.
dam, wrong again , but i still think the one on the right is a jeep, mine has the same length shaft and collar
Just my 2 cents the 2 are different do to the input shaft splines. I agree I think the other is ford or jeep. Never the less I bought the hot rod works adp for my 261 w/ t5 and it moves the trans back about 1/2 inch. (I used my stock 53 bell housing) I think the later bell housing 55-63ish will bolt right up not sure if it is 1/2 longer if not you would have to trim your input shaft.
Only reason I am making the bushing is I'm broke (I know, whats a new one, a couple bucks??) and I enjoy playing with the lathe...I'm pretty amateurish with it and like to find ways to practice with it... I'll get a pic of the bellhousing up for you...
That's fine. Just make sure you're using oil impregnated bronze, but I'm sure you knew that. I need a picture because I'm not finding that part number listed in my Hollander, and anything close to it is newer than 1963, which would mean that it's not going to fit a 261, I just want to be sure of what you have before making any recommendations on part selection.
They are both 14 splines. Like Dan said, they are the same except for the shortened collar and shaft tip. Both appear to have the wide Muncie Chevy bolt pattern, so no on the Ford or Jeep issue then. Whether or not to use an adapter, or a spacer, or nothing at all depends on the bellhousing he is going to use.
Ok, looks like 1958-62 car 235 bellhousing, so we are good on that. With using that in a 1949-54 car, the fork angle is going to be wrong, assuming you are going to hook it up to the stock clutch under floor linkage setup. Both transmissions you have could be used. If using the shortened one, then a thin shim between the trans and housing should be all you need to get enough spline to keep the disc from binding on the input shaft. I sell a thin spcer for this purpose, and I also have a piece of clutch linkage available to fix the fork angle issue. You could also use the uncut trans, but you will still need to shorten the collar, and it might be necessary to take a small amount off the tip. This assumes using the thin spacer. If you were to go with the thick spacer that others sell, then you could avoid cutting the tip, but it won't save you from cutting anything else, and it will cost an extra $100 just to say you didn't need to cut the tip. You could do it without a spacer if you took a Dremel tool and lengthened the splines a bit. Other option would be to use the stock 1949-54 car bellhousing and stock linkage, and buy an adapter plate like pbr40 suggested, and then use the trans that hasn't been cut. You would still need to shorten the collar and run a 1/2" drill through the case holes, but you won't need to shorten the input shaft itself.