Projects '40 ford modified hot rod truck

Is not beauty in the eye of the beholder?

 

"moot" point.....

 

I have a bronco 9" with a model a spring attached. The spring is loaded to 45" with the length of each shackle spans 49".....

thanks, I appreciate your pointing out potential danger issues. I'll address those issues and make the 4 link frame brackets stronger. I'll redo the horizontal welds and gusset the bracket plate...
also I'm still figuring out the placement of a pan hard bar. That should address the fro and aft movement.

it looks like a modified '40 ford truck to me......

does not the beholder have to have an eye for beauty ?

I like your attitude.....

 

I am in the other camp. Weld the vertical welds bottom to top. To keep them from looking ugly, cut the heat a little and stitch your weld in a zig zag motion as you go up. Kinda like going up steps. It takes some practice and I am not sure if I would practice on my frame.

A top down weld will look better and is easier but your weld puddle will follow you down and the weld will not get the penetration needed.

I have heard the argument that top down is fine and that may be true for someone with some welding talent. But for an amateur welder on a weekend, I would doubt it.

Another option is to avoid vertical welds. When you are working with the frame, lay it on its side and now you are working on a horizontal plane. I have done that when I can.

Neal

 

X's 2

 

Maybe you don't have a Bronco axle then, because the mounts would be right up against the backing plates, blocking the wheel cylinders. Bronco measures 58" from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface. A panhard will not address the arc that 4 link travels as it moves up and down. The Model A spring wants to move straight up and down. It's going bind during it's travel if it moves in that small of an arc. Spreading the Model A spring to it's stock mounting points eliminates the need for the panhard. But since you have an early Bronco axle, it won't work. Put backing plates on and you'll see.

You are just going through a lot of work to use that spring. Just buy some coil overs and be done.

 

thanks for explaining the problem....it does measure 58" and it is a early bronco rear.
Even though I believe what you're saying, I'll mock up a backing plate so I can get a visual.
So coilovers and pan hard bar and that should make the rear end setup safe and strong. Is that correct?
I really appreciate your constructive feedback. I'm not posting this build to bust balls. I need help to make this build, strong, safe,mechanically and structurally safe for me and everybody else on the roads. I learn by everybody's comments, neg. and pos.
I'm a good catcher and I'm also a good pitcher...if you follow my drift.

 

Bill , I thought about your statement concerning the 4:11 gears with no overdrive. After some thought, change tranny to a T-5 or change gears, I've decided to go with 3:50 gears. I believe with the 3:50's I can have the best of both worlds..if you know what I mean.

 

I like change as long as it doesn't affect me, fortunately it does affects me so I have to change.
the buggy spring will work and has to be at least 49 1/4" and then I don't have to use a pan hard bar. My 4 link bars are way too short. It was suggested that 26" bars would be much better.So my 4 link "race car" setup is out and for sale. I've got some Pete and Jakes 27 1/2" bars coming. I'll mount them on the inside of the boxed frame rails.
A lot has been said about a buggy spring and a early bronco 9". If I turn the mounting bracket around I have 50 5/8" to work with, I only need 49 1/2". Sure it's close to the backing plate but I'll have ample room to attach a brake line plus bleed the brakes.

 

Not totally my style but I respect the work it takes to build a vehicle ground up and your balls deep in it right now so good for you. You may consider running a 35-40 front spring in the rear. It will have a high enough rate for your build, is lower profile, narrower, traditional and cheap. If you were closer I'd give you a free one.

 

I'm interested in your build and impressed with the manner you handle criticism. Good luck, I'll be following along to see how it turns out. Wishing you the best! (subscribed)

 

I too don't like the style, but its yours, you need to make up your mind as to how its gonna go....constant changes show after awhile and cost big. You really should stop, take the time to have someone who can weld give you more practice, you'll be happier with the results and won't get your ass kicked so much. Secondly, slow down and put more thought into the car you want to wind up with, take more time to look at it from fifty feet, it'll look different. Good luck.

 

In your second to last picture, the spring hanger is turned around the wrong way and a shackle won't be able to swing, but in the next picture the one on the other side is facing the right way. I don't know which picture is newer.....

 

thanks for the offer.....I'll pm you about the spring.

Criticism, I'm used to criticism. The trick is wear life like a loose garment also, don't kill the messenger. My expectations were when I posted on the H.A.M.B. was I gonna be CRITICIZED. The positive out of criticism, for me, is I gonna learn and have a much better and safer build because of it.

your right,change cost money...you're also right about slowing down, I can't......,I have changed in that I'm asking an old pro for advice on how to make my rear suspension work.What I should change and what I can salvage.
I'm obsessed with this build, I wake up constantly during the night thinking about the issues I'm facing and trying to find the solutions. I'm searching the net, HAMB and several other sources for answers. I'm obviously posting here.I eat sleep and drink this build. So I can't "spend more time" on it.......

that's what I'm looking for, an answer on if I can turn the spring hanger around or not...so I'll mock it up correctly and see what I have.

 

You can't turn it around like that. The shackle will get up against it and the spring will not be able to grow longer, therefore can't compress= solid suspension.


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While I do admire your drive to build what you want and to build it safely, I do see this as a forbiden word, aka ratrod. Ultamatly it is yours to build as you see fit. When it comes to the welding, get a compitent welder to do it. I have welded high pressure tanks and pressure vessels for a living and when it comes to safety( yours and others) you don't want to skimp. Just my 2¢. Good luck.

 

...

 

Is this the time of the build where I say "I told you so"?

I too understand the excitement of a build. I have spent the last 2 years of my life learning, asking questions, designing, THEN building. You seem to have more money than I do. I couldn't afford mistakes. I'll say my welds are not great, but I know what penetration feels, looks and sounds like.

The idea of putting the rear axle in before having the front suspension, engine/trans, wheels and tires seems like a lot of guesswork.

You need to decide what you want the truck to do for you. Part of that decision should not be if it's HAMB friendly or not. Posting this here right now is like posting a Corvette in a Mustang forum and expecting answers. These are all just observations of mine. I'm working on my first ground up build. It's not easy. It takes time. I really don't know what I'm doing either. But this is what I learned to build. Have a look. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=667069

Keep it up. Post some inspiration photos of the truck that inspired the build.

 

well, I went to my stash of rear ends and found this 1965 fairlane 500 9".....measured her up and I believe this will work. She has 3:50 gears but just one wheel drive, so I'll change that to limited slip.
and yes, the early bronco rear is too narrow to properly run a buggy spring.

 

I won't learn if I have somebody does my welding for me.I lay a good penetrating beed then go over it fast just to add more material. I'll stop that bad habit I have. You'll be able to judge my welds better.

I read your whole build thread. It was great and very informative. I'll follow your techniques when I install my f-1 crossmember and my 35-36 dash in my "30 coupe and sedan builds. Lots of great information. Thanks for posting it.








Well, it's time for me to "stop catching and through a couple of pitches". This will probably result in my build thread being closed or even deleted.
I like to know exactly what certain words mean. I need definitions. So I looked up the definition of "rat rod". I'm sure you all can read and see the examples of the vehicles displayed on the link below. To paraphrase some of the definition...a vehicle that has no fenders ,not painted , lowered over a frame , open motor , made from different assorted parts.
That how I define your modified beau, and that how I define the majority of the cool builds I see here.
Well enjoy the "barrel of snakes". I'll be in my garage building my modified "40 bobber truck..........





click on the link below


https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...HZW1h0LJmI5lJPsbH0RildA&bvm=bv.57752919,d.eW0

 

Ugh. I hope mine doesn't get tossed in to the rat pile.

Good luck with the projects.

 

with the rear wheels inches from the cab that will be one goofy looking truck.

 

no pile for you...your building a real cool hot rod.......

thank you for looking at my build thread. I'm always in awe of the old time H.A.M.B.ers, you've been here since 2004 with over 13,000 posts..fucking awesome.
Even though I think the truck looks cooler with the wheels close to the cab and you think it will look goofy that way, I still respect the time and energy you have put into the HAMB forum.
The right to build your dream, that's what its all about.........

 

While the '40/'41 1/2 ton pickups had the gas tank in the rear and the filler on the rear fender, the '40/'41 3/4 ton and 1 ton "Express" pickups had the gas filler behind the passenger side door and gas tank under the seat like all the '42-'47 1/2 ton and up did.

Here is a photo of a '40 3/4 ton pickup

http://www.flickr.com/photos/unclegal/2757387150/

Here is a photo of a '40 1 ton pickup

http://trucks.about.com/od/trucksuvphotogalleries/ig/Readers-Trucks/1940-Ford-1-Ton-Express.htm

 

got the buggy spring hung at exactly 49 1/2".......also installed my pete & jakes parallel bars. I still have to fine tune the pinion angle to 3 degrees.
For those of you who are like my brother-in-law, able to see and point out any flaw in my projects, yes, the axle mounting brackets for the parallel bars are different.Why? BECAUSE!.......
I'd like to thank all the critical assholes, I mean , concerned hot rodders for the continual pressure concerning my "inadequate" welds and lack of skills there of. You forced me to seek outside help, improve my welding skills and technique.My buddy ,who is an excellent welder, gave me some hands on instructions. I don't learn if somebody says "you suck at welding" I learn by example and practice. 90 % of the welding done on the parallel bar work was my buddy's,some of my 10% work you can pick out and the rest is the same as my buddy's.Now ,I'll go back and re-do my old welds........
thanks you guys,keep on pointing out the good and not so good things you see in this build.
I personally think the pete & jakes parallel bars look so much better than the "race car 4 bars set-up I previously had.The 27" bars will work much better.
One other thing I learned was ,my rear is an 8", not a 9", I've ordered the parts to make it a limited slip differential, 3:50 gears.

 

You probably don't need to do BOTH. Since it looks like you've got the 3:50's already, you can probably skip the T5 unless you wanna see if you can go really REALLY FAST. Look at some ratio calculators. http://www.tremec.com/calculadora.php

I assume you've got a granny gear 4spd like a NP425 or something. That's OK if you wanna retain some truck ability. I opted not to do a T5 because I had concerns about the 300 blowing it up. I'm building with a 3.03 3 speed now. I won't be able to go too fast with my 4.10 rear, no, but it'll still be fun until I finish my quick change rear and/or go get a TKO 500. Food for thought.

 

Yea, it is a NP425 ,and I'm gone to skip the T5......also, I'm gone to use my 351w with a 3 speed top loader, instead of the inline 300,6.
Thanks for the link.......

 

The new 4 link and associated welds look muuuuuuch better. Good job! Keep on learning brother, its a journey to greatness.

 

thanks man.......

 

Aw man, I was really digging the inline six vibe. I know it's your build, but the 300 is so awesome and with the 3.5 gears would have scooted down the road very smartly. Keep going though, and kudos for learning and improving as you go. I'm doing the same.