^^^^Yeah, we used Ting or Parko Sanding Paste. Rarely had any fish eye problems that a couple of drops of Fisheye Eliminator wouldn't cure
I used diesel fuel once in my old Reddi-heater Sears clone in the well ventilated garage. Gag choke. Fouled spark plugs more too. It took me a couple of fill ups from the 5 gallon can to figure out it was the fuel. //Maybe// modern low sulfur diesel would be OK, but I won'r risk it again It runs MUCH better with kerosene, which is what the instructions call for. Some say diesel works OK in theirs. But some also speak of adjusting fuel pressure or jetting. I've got to empty the 275 gallon fuel tank at my mom's house. I;ll be putting some of the stinky #2 fuel oil for the cleaning tank, but I won't risk it in the heater.
Thanks for help I never had this problem before as I have painted my 4 cars before with no fisheye problems even with the heater going on the 40 Conv during the winter.But I do wipe it down with wax/grease remover 2 times before any primer or color and clear .Have 2 dryers on wall from Devillibus and will get a new hose since I just have a seperate hose for my paint gun.It has happened before I even used the heater this year even in the summer.I put a light pass and wait 5 minutes and the next a little wetter and then 5-10 minutes and the last coat of clear.The fisheye seems to only come in when I do clear.As I'm no painter by profession but like to do things myself.As retired I need to get out of house.But painted my first in driveway in the 80's with Dupont Lucite.Seems that pieces that lay flat like hood and deck lid are the worst problems.The fisheyes seems to come after I quit spraying and leave the shop to cure Thanks for help.Yes here in Ga today we have a dusting of snow on the ground and temp yesterday was 39 for a high.I hate winter and I'm in central Ga
Ran into a similar problem, ended up being oil from air compressor traveling into the air lines and hose.
Thanks going to get a new hose this week and try it when it warms up a little and bought some fisheye additive
there is a * disposable orange * just at the gun FILTER, I use em and i have a pressure gauge there too. using a SATA G_feed
Hey, From what I'm readin', your problem may not be '' fisheyes'', but solvent pop! Depending on shop conditions & temps when your painting, and only allowing 5-10 minutes of flash time between coats, you may be trapping solvent between those coats And, a flash time of only 10 minutes between your base and clear, with up to three coats of clear shot with the same flash times points to trouble If you can smell diesel fumes from the heater in your shop, they're in the air, and will land on horizontal surfaces, and be sanded or rubbed into vertical surfaces as well. Man, I'd like to have one of the '' Cigar Heaters '' jus' to make the "S.C.A.Q.M.D.''( local smog nazi arm of the gov'mant ) day. It would probably be good for a 10 thousand dollar fine if I had it runnin' in the shop , here in SoKaL Good luck with your paint job " Spending a nation into generational debt is not an act of compassion "
I learned the hard way to NEVER paint any thing in same shop that silicon brake fluid has been used!!
you aren't waiting long enough between coats. Should wait at least 15-20 minutes between coats. Solvent is getting trapped between coats and causing it to fisheye(solvent pop).
we also get that problem when someone uses silcone spray in the workshop, damn stuff floats all over place, and we have a large workshop.
I thought solvent pop was raised up fisheye is a little crater.This did this when it was in the summer also so no heat needed at all.Don't use heater too much except when I try to start installing stuff.But all my cars have silicon brake fluid in them but that has been almost a year since I did the brakes.Thanks for help been terrible weather lately 22degress this morning in central Ga
Pimpin's on to something. Exactly when do the craters form? Is it in the last 2 coats? Do you add any solvent to your clear? Solvent in clear isn't a bad thing, at least in moderation it isn't. It can reduce peel and help with leveling but the flash time must be increased or you'll indeed get craters of solvent pop. Doesn't have to be hot, cold, contaminated, etc. I sprayed 1 car with PPG Strato-clear and that shit was solvent pop city man. Hated it with a passion. Solvent pop can be big like fish eyes or small like white overspray. Time to recoat should be sticky without stringing up on your finger as you pull it off, usually done on a piece of tape that catches the same amount of material as a finish surface.
read -n- see pictures here ---> http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/s/trouble/PDSG_SolventPop.html and read more http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/common/pdfs/axalta/Axalta-Paint-Defects-Manual.pdf
Hey, A "fisheye'' and a ''solvent pop'' are not the same thing, and both arise for different reasons- A fisheye is the result of surface contamination from grease, oil, wax or silcone. You can usually see the previous coat of paint or primer or metal, in the shape of a ''fisheye'' A ''solvent pop'' results from not enough flash time between coats, wrong reducer or hardner for shop conditions or too heavy a pass of the product. A solvent pop will look like a small fisheye, but usually more like small bubbles, with a cloudy look . You'll usually see this on a hood, deck or top panel, as it's easier to load on heavy coats of material on these surfaces over say,a vertical panel. You'd be best to sand all the finish back to the sealer, select the correct hardner and reducer, and extend your flash times wayyyyyyyy out for the temps you working under. Be sure to go light on your spray passes, as heavy coats will only slow down flash times and cause more headaches All paint materials were produced in a lab under ''controled conditions'' for use at temps well above what you're working under Rotza ruck
Thanks I sanded down deck lid but do to so health problems in family had to put on back burner and the temps here in Ga have been 22-24 till about 9 oclock.So I"ll wait a little longer.But I will try to spray it vertical but this is on a 71 Monte Carlo.I mean big big hood.But I bought this car new in 71.And it is going back black like it came.Bought a new air hose yesterday and will change a few more things.Also have one of those screw on filters on paint gun
When I started using the HVLP paint guns I gave up using the inline throw away filters at the gun. I liked the idea of the filter just before the gun but I thought that it restricted air flow and flow is as important as pressure with a HVLP gun. I have managed to get by for the last 25 years without using fish eye eliminator in my shop. I try to be careful and not introduce things that will cause fish eyes when I paint, but I have made mistakes. I spend extra time cleaning and prepping each time I paint. One of my painter friends claims that once you use fish eye eliminator, you will always need it, but I do not know that the statement is true. John
[QUOTE= One of my painter friends claims that once you use fish eye eliminator, you will always need it, but I do not know that the statement is true. Hey, This is generally true, as once a ''fisheye'' is detected in a coating of paint, and the '' eliminator '' is used, the bit of wax, oil or silcone will only be held back by the one coating of material that has had the ''fisheye eliminator '' added to it. If the additional coats of material don't contain the eliminator, the solvents and hardner shot over the original fisheye will reactivate it, and it will once again be visible in the last coat Stay on top of your housekeeping, make sure your compressor & air lines are in top shape, and big enough to do the job, and never allow any mecanical work or material i.e. oil, grease, wax or any material containing silcone, in the spray work area! " I liked the old millenium better ''
DAWN IS THE CULPRIT I can not believe ...people dont know this just CLEAN WATER how the hell do you think it get rigof GREASE .............SILACONE fuck I was 15 when I figured that out 63 now we had to wetsand every thing for paint and was told then it worked good in the water ....not no dawn no problem!!
If I was at the old production body shop I used to work at doing $400 paint jobs in the 80's, when we would get fish eyes, we would wet sand the finish back down past the fish eyes, then start over again. Clean evrything with wax and grease remover, even places we weren't painting, the edges of panels hold wax etc. Then we would clean out the paint booth again, threw away all the rags we were using, get new ones. Wash our hands. Make sure our clothes didn't have something on them. You have to be supersticous with the getting stuff clean. At the crappy body shop, our air compressor was wearing out and was pumping oil and air, that caused them a few times. And fish eye remover should only be used as a last resort, its for production shops where you got to save time, as you can keep on painting if they go away. That stuff always made our acrylic enamel into a orange peel mess, and mess up some metallics. But personally , I haven't had that problem for years, becauce I am so obsessive compulsive about the cleaness of the paint area and paiint subject. Thats what production painting taught me.
NEVER EVER NEVER USE FISH EYE REMOVER!! ONCE YOU DO YOU CONTAMINATE THE ENTIRE SHOP!! NEVER USE A TORPEDO HEATER IN AN INCLOSED SHOP. BOOOM!! NEVER SPRAY AEROSOL LIKE WD40, WORST YET SILICONE . Wash surface with soap water, wipe dry. Clean with enamel reducer like 3812 Dupont wipe dry, with clean no lint cloth.change cloth wipes. Do not put your grubby fingers on the car. latex gloves. Stay away from rubber seals. Clowns often spray silicone you should pick up on that during the process your finger tips will be slippery you know your in trouble.
Thanks I wash down floors and all before spraying and going back to my Sharpe spray gun to shoot the base and clear again.Always wipe down with wax and degreaserbefore I touch any panel.Only wet sand with water then w/G remover then water and rubbing alcohol mixed
Amazing how some info gets all convoluted. Once you use fisheye prevention ON THAT JOB, you have to have it in any subsequent coatings or repairs. It DOES NOT ruin the surrounding area, and the very few times I used it there was no silicone in the ingredients. Some old-timers used to put a small drop of trans fluid in a ready to spray qt of material as a fisheye fix. WD-40 and silicone spray are not FOREVER, but should never be used in a paint area. Some punk at one of my jobs told somebody he was gonna "fix" me and spray silicone around the garage doors of the paint area. I found out about it and wrinkled his fuckin shirt real good, warning him I'd gladly get fired for crippling him should he get the balls to do it anyway. Last thing I read from the OP mentioned hanging the hood vertical. What color? Metallic? Forget about it matching anything on the car if you do. Even some opaque (solid) colors will dry different from vertical to horizontal. Vertical panels dry different than horizontal panels, even more pronounced now with the crop of 'thanes we have to use. The heavy stuff sinks, the light stuff floats. Most hood tops never match the side of the car for that reason, but it's so slight from one plane to the next it goes unnoticed. Just sayin...
What are you using as mixing cups? I thought I was a genius using paper cups of different sizes to measure out the clear materials Instead of a measuring cup. It was much cheaper and I was using PPS cups to shoot with(I mix my own base, so that goes based on weight, not volume). I noticed the same problem. No fisheye in the base, but it would pop out in the clear. The cups had a light coat of wax. Point being, look at all parts of the job. Maybe the clear is tainted, use a different clear. Test it on a different panel etc. it's frustrating for sure. If its just a couple, and you were going to sand it flat anyway, I've touched it up while still wet with a dot of clear. It leaves an outie instead of an innie, so you can sand it off.
And use a cheapie inline filter if you're not. I have a 3 stage devilbiss filter before my booth and i still use one. It's cheap insurance.cheaper than changing out the hose too... The idiot that plumbed my shop had all the lines out of level in the direction of airflow and the drops went straight down. Any water/ oil got dumped onto the tools and booth. With that inline filter I never had issues. I've since replumbed the shop, much drier now. Are you getting the car up to temp? I read through again and noticed you're at 20 degrees. If you're not pre heating the car, not just the air, the paint is going to take a lot longer to dry, and when you lay on a couple of coats the solvent gets trapped. That could be your issue. Post up a pic of what it looks like, it'll help figure out what the condition actually is
The Jalopy Journal
