Anyone, seen, heard or used them? Seeking info and opinions http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sanderson-Zoomie-Headers-for-Small-Block-Chevy.html
look at speedway zoomie headers cheap...made by quiality shop.......... friend has set on sbchevy powered falcon /sound good
A guy I know just put them on his 32 highboy roadster. At first they were too loud so he put mufflers inside; then the pipes got red hot,so he started pulling the mufflers out until the pipes cooled down and he could live with the noise. He loves them now,but wait 2 months. he'll hate them. If you are going to drive your hotrod on the street a lot, the exhaust needs to come out the back. Spoken from experience.
we've got a set here that's are going on an in progress build so no feedback. We're a Sanderson dealer and sell a good bit of them with no complaints. You do have to be realistic as said any exhaust that exits in front of you is going to be loud. there are many ways to baffle and control that though.. if you're interested in a set pm me as I can probably offer you a better price than just about anyone...ken....
I put a set on a tee a while back. Nice quality!! Customer is running them open... but with stock 350 it isn't that loud.
I'm looking for some zoomies for my 34 Ford Pick Up. And next to building my own, these Sandersons http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sanderson-Zoomie-Headers-for-Small-Block-Chevy.html are the only ones I've found with enough initial "out reach", or dimension "B" (length of tube from the flange to the inside bend), to be able to clear the frame rails....these pipes have 9 1/4 inches. But the $700 - $900 price tags I've found have kept me from pulling the trigger on buying them. The Speedway zoomies, http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Boom-...mie-Headers-for-Sprints-AHC-Coated,32190.html are priced great at only $225 for the coated ones,.....but the measurement from flange to curve is only 5 inches. The description even states they will not fit wide frames....or to be more accurate, it should say will not fit "over" the outside of frames, only in between block and frame. Anyone know of any other manufacturers out there with similar zoomies like Sandersons, but a little more reasonably priced?
The Sanderson headers are nice. But $810+ is way to much. Make or buy flanges. Buy bends. Tack it together and get some friend or somebody to Tig weld it. Take it for coating. Save at least a couple hundred bucks.
My friend has them on a big block 31 ford hiboy,baffles have a lot of back pressure and they are loud.
If I may interject my zoomie question here: I have a set with a dent in one tube. Do any of you great fabricator guys know a practical way to fix this? Thanks.
You could try pulling it out with a slide hammer. Or cut it out and replace it. I guess a good man could work it out with a hammer and spoon.
You might be able to talk to brass instrument repair shop. They have mandrels to remove dents in music instruments. Just a thought.
Just a bump in case someone knows about any alternatives to the Sandersons,....with a similar design but not a similar price.
Thanks for the tips, guys. First I'll try reaching in there with a spoon type tool and see if I can move it since the tubing is pretty thick.
I've pulled some dents in dirt bike pipes by capping one end, forcing air into the tube via a regulator on a valve and heating the dent with a torch until it came back into place... I've always wondered whether or not it would work on header tubing.. I don't know. But it's worth a shot at that price. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
NickJT look up Car Crafts project Stein it's a v8 tbi s10. They fix an intake runner that's dented. While it's aluminum the same techniques should work. I tried to post a link but my connection is being weid and I can't get online. Sent via Illinois Bell Telephone Company's Car Radiotelephone
Here's the link. Click on the lower left photo to read what they did. It actually beats anything posted so far. A rare miss for the HAMB? http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1110_project_sten_tpi_engine_buildup/
Thats cool with thin aluminum. But finding the correct size steel ball for the OPs headers may not be easy. I really think the fastest and easiest way is to cut it out and weld in a piece cut from another tube. Sometimes people make things really hard trying to make it easy.
Sorry, I thought the idea was to offer suggestions on how to get them presentable. Nothings going to make them perfect again. So, a few balls that can fit wouldn't be a whole lot of work and time. Maybe the OP or someone else with the same problem, isn't that good a welder. Everyone doesn't have a shop to play in. Some of us have to wing it.
I don't know about your headers, but mine start out with a kind of rectangular hole. A ball that would make a snug fit with the ID of the header tube would not pass through the flange. And maybe you can advise me on a source for 1 5/8 steel balls. I know where lots of welders are.
It took an entire minute. http://www.craigballsales.com/product.php?productid=321&cat=2&page=2 Sent via Illinois Bell Telephone Company's Car Radiotelephone
I fix race car headers frequently...I welded a one inch ball on a piece of 3/8" solid rod.. Heat the dented area up cherry red and slide the ball down the tube to the dent..lean on it a bit..presto...no more dent.. Dave
Craig Ball Sales? Who knew? Still you would have to wait for it to show up and then find out it wouldn't pass the flange. Dave Lewis would seem to know what works. Why not try that?
I do believe there's two open ends and that one of them is round. But I've been wrong before. Sent via Illinois Bell Telephone Company's Car Radiotelephone
Have a buddy running them on a sbc. Without the slip ins they are not obnoxious, just may not want to hear them all day long on a long ride. Nice quality. Don't think you would get harassed by the local po po. With the baffles in they sound pretty good.
Thanks. This is my favorite suggestion so far so I'll try it with unbridled optimism. Thanks for all the ideas, guys.
The OP's headers are "Zoomies". No collector. 8 straight individual pipes with about a 45 degree bend in each.