Three days ago I went to start my Buick and, click, no luck. Then tried again... turned key to "On" position, and hit the black ignition button, and still, click. (Just one single click, non-repeating) It's an ALL original engine, so this was a good time to cover a few things... so, first I replaced all 8 spark plugs, new points & condenser, checked battery and it was running all 12v. I then tried to start it again; same outcome, one click every time I press ignition button. Today, I replaced the ignition coil, cleaned cables and terminals on ignition components & battery; tried to start it, no luck, same outcome. (keep in mind, my car was starting any/every time for the past few months. I really hope someone can help, I DON'T want to spend another $90 on a new starter solenoid; and come home to find that didn't fix it either. Again, 53' Buick Super, 322-V8, 12v... please let me know your thoughts.
Turn your headlights on and hit the starter button. If lights go real dim or off, you have a battery problem. If they stay bright, you have starter or solenoid problem. Have someone watch lights as you try it. Hope this helps. Ron
I think you have a connection problem or a bad ground. take all connections loose one at a time. start at battery continue all the way to starter clean and tighten all connections this should do it. hope this helps tom
Ron: I watched the headlights and they did go dim when I hit the starter button, but not really dim or off. I'll have my battery tested again today at Napa where I bought it brand new a couple months ago. Tom: I'll test all the connections/grounds today, hopefully you're right, this is starting to give me a headache. (just about the only thing that's "starting")
I was just thinking. Is the car originally 6 or 12 volt? Is the starter new or original? 6 volt starters will work on 12 volts for a while. If it is 6 volt and original maybe it finnally gave up. Good luck with solving your problem. Ron
Headache ? ? I bet it has. "Click" doesn't point to plugs points and condenser - you'll still just "click" Nor does this revised "click" point to a coil. None of that will alter your click anymore than changing your tires over to winter air. The starter needs 12 volts and plenty of amps to get going. That supply comes from the solenoid. The solenoid needs 12 volts from your ignition switch to close its contacts to pass full battery voltage to the starter. Better than aspirin.
Ron: This model was originally 12v, the starter is original, it's probably time to change the solenoid. thanks. 31Vicky: I really appreciate the break down... obviously my first garage project, still learning. Is there a test to see if all 12v are going from the ignition to solenoid? (or, is the test if it starts or not?) Any additional info is appreciated.
A $5.00 test light will help you follow the current along its planned route. But it may not help you out on this one. Generally if it clicks, everything is going electric wise is going where its supposed to, but the amount is wrong. It could be a weak battery and you need to make sure that's good. A battery load tester is about 30.00 or take it to the auto parts store and have tested. That's step #1. After that its cable connections and lugs. The bolted connections can be loose or corroded. The lugs can be corroded inside the crimp and I've seen the cable green and fuzzy 3" concealed under the insulation. The next thing is the contacts within the solenoid and the starter itself. #1 is always the battery but you could test the starter 2nd or last. Depends on your expectant cause of failure. You can do it on the car, on a bench or at the parts store.
Remove the starter take it to NAPA have them test it. I would bet coffee and a donut its the starter.
do you need a wire diagram for that model? I have a book. As I recall, GMs of that era have a relay or some connection lug on the driver fenderwell. And I think some Buicks may have a unusual starter system, some go to a accel linkage switch, but not sure which years. Tracing is the best way, and with a diagram.
Problem solved... most of you were right, it was the battery. My fault for thinking a brand new $150 battery couldn't have any problems. Full 12v charge, but only 45 cold cranking amps... Napa thinks its because it sat on their shelves for almost a year; they replaced it for free w/ a battery dated 08/2013. Now on to the next problem; before this battery/starter issue, the car was starting and running every time... now, new battery, good power, but won't turn over. I'll try to take pics/video later today, and post it to get some feedback & suggestions. F&J: YES... I would really like to have a complete wiring diagram... and you're right, I have found that my 53' Super has MANY specs/parts that are only unique to that year.
here is a 50 series, which i think is a super. for dynaflow, but i have a diagram for standard shift also
You think you got headaches try reviving a 1956 buick special station wagon Thats was in poor storage for 20 years. Talk about things being a 1 year run this ones the same way. Every time I go to the garage I wonder what will it be today.. Keeps me outta the tittie bars LOL Bruce.
Gonna put in some work today... starting issue still there; bad battery swapped out for good one took care of that "click only" issue... but now its not turning over. Before the battery swap, I changed spark plugs, points & condenser, ignition coil, removed Stromberg carb temporarily to change mounting gasket. I have a feeling that one of those things is my problem... any red flags that I should be looking at? (or obvious things I might have overlooked) Also, original Stromberg carb (aerotype 267) needs idle adjustment... could that cause the car not to start? (I turned idle screws all the way clockwise when carb was off) Any help, guidance, or direction is greatly appreciated!
there is a problem with the switch on the carburetor that sometimes gets gummed up and wont let it start. check it out here on the HAMB. --- If thats not not enough , google your problem and it will show all the 'Buick start' articles known to man. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=743309
Define won't turn over please. Do you mean the engine won't rotate under battery power or it "turns over" but won't start?
ye,s it is most likely something you changed ...maybe the points...what did you gap them at ....or you crossed the plug wires ..or wired the new coil wrong.... check for spark,then go back and trace your steps ...
"but won't turn over." The starter spins, and the engine spins fast, but fails to fire? I hate spending money and time on needless part swapping. I'd rather spend the money on parts that really need to be replaced, in the 25% of the cases that parts actually need to be replaced. I've had an instance or 2 when "tightening" a cleaned connection nice and tight still did not clamp the parts hard enought to make good contact. If not for a voltage drop test i would have been off fruitlessly chasing ghosts elsewhere. Want a video of the general procedure and a typical instrument to use? ? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gD7pMk9FCgk Here are Test points to check entire negative or positive circuit ( your plusses and minuses may be different if positive ground) http://www.askamechanic.info/askamec...sting sm.jpg here are More detailed test points to determine if I need to clean the negative battery post, or replace the entire cable are shown here - https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-X...2520points.jpg The nice thing about a few measurements of voltage drop when cranking is, as soon as the test is over the repair list is quite short. The result is NEVER "try this, this, and if they don't work try that." I have immediate and specific direction as to which connection is "b-b-b-bad", and which cable is damaged or undersized, AND if indeed any are. Also which connections are OK to leave alone (lwo voltage drop when cranking and the amps are flowing.) And which cables are just fine for my required task, which cannot be said with complete certainty even of a brand new cable I just took out of a NAPA Belden box.
Sorry, I mean the engine turns over but won't start... Sawbuck: The one thing that sticks out in your suggestions, that could be the problem is "wired new coil wrong"... when I press the ignition button on the dash, the engine sounds like it's trying to start, but doesn't. Immediately after I try to start it multiple times, the resistor is very hot, with a little smoke. This resistor is mounted to the coil. See the thread link below for pics and additional info. Dan Timberlake: Thanks for all the info and links, very helpful. This will help me tremendously moving forward. I will post pics soon, to help explain my cars issues, and hopefully help with an outcome.
Forgot to post link... here you go. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=841844&highlight=nailhead+resistor
Tried to start engine a couple times right now.... this time resistor got RED hot and was smoking... which concerns me cause its location is directly under fuel line/filter into carb. See pics... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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