My doors were shaved on mu '50 Ford when I bought it but I want it to be my daily driver. I have seen a lot of posts about them being a pain so I would like to hear from anyone that can give me info to make my life as easy as possible. The PO reached in the vent window to open the door, but I don't want to be that crude! What brand solenoids are most dependable and are bear claw latches necessary. Thanks in advance from a street rodder gone custom guy!
a friend of mine purchased a truck with shaved handles and decided to install Lincoln push buttons, they adapt easy to most stock latches and look cool on customs
I put over 100,000 miles on my 49 Ford coupe with shaved doors. There were no bear claws when I built it so I modified my stock latches with VW beetle latches, and regular starter solenoids. They worked fine, but I found myself using the vent window entry way more than the cool micro switch button I installed in place of the key tumbler in my door locks. Good Roads Brian
I have used both bear claws and vw latches. both worked well but you may snag your clothes on the bear claw striker more times than you may like. I have used solenoids from the shaved door suppliers and ones from junk yards and both worked good. I have had problems with the key chain door controls not working properly or being activated from sitting on them ( not good for suicide doors!).
I drive my Pontiac with shaved handles everyday. I even had a trunk latch type solonoid for the door and it never let me down. I would use a heavier style solonoid for your door and not the trunk one (its just what I had at the time), and I ran the button in the front wheel well. Because I didn't want to rely on a keychain remote battery failing on me. So if your car battery is hot so is the door popper! I also used the "reach thru the wing window" meathod. Nothing wrong with it if it means getting Into your car. I normally left my windows down and reached in to open it, but for some reason I had to roll up the windows (ie rain, shady area) I reached in the wing window. Auto loc is a common door kit, I'm sure there is more out there. And unless your doors are not latching on the original strikers, you dont need to add bear claws or any new latches. Don't want a keychain? Then hide a button on the car somewhere. Figure is someone really wants to steal your ride, they will. Usually by busting a window out even If you have door handles. But that's what insurance is for!
I shaved the door handles on my wagon a couple of years ago, bought a remote kit, let me down a couple of times so I got rid of it. I now have a button in the front wheel well, use the vent window method most of the time. I use the heavy duty solenoids, however I had the bracket they come with bend once. I'm going to be redoing the whole system this winter with better brackets and cables. On my Merc, I'm going with shaved handles as well, but with a strictly mechanical system.
even if you don't want the shaved look anymore a set of door handles from a Lincoln or other products that don't stick out could work for you.i have seen them on some cars and they do look nice.
I used the Spal kit from Speedway, has been working fine for a few years now, also used the bear claw latches.
I hav used the solenoids off caravan rear hatchs. They worked good for me. 1 door handle i have always wanted to try is the 70 to 72 grand prixs. Thought they were really cool.
What I have used recently are bearclaws from Speedway connected to cables from trunk releases on Hondas or similar with some old VW inside door handles mounted under the car. With power windows you can mount one of the switches outside of the car to easily lower a window to reach in and open. Works quite well!
I have shaved door handles on my 50 chevy coupe with all of the factory hardware still in use, just no outside handles, and I reach in the vent glass to open the door like the way we did it as teenagers. I'm 70 years old and this ( reaching in the vent) reminds me of my high school and hamburger drive-in days.
I had shaved door handles on my '39 Ford convertible,I used magnet solenoids,a buddy of mine came up with the idea. After a few years I decided that Henry was a pretty smart fellow...door handles worked in 1939 and they could work in 1989. I reinstalled the handles and never regretted it.HRP
I built my glass 28 chevy w/o door handles. I used 300sl mercedes latches and chev starter solinoids.The outside buttons are at the lower corner of the firewall(no hood) and just below the landu irons on the roof sail panel.There is a dpdt switch on the inside of the front pillar that allows me to "lock" the outside buttons. Its not what you guys use now but this was '61 and we had to figure out and build stuff ourselves then. The buttons are low current and operated horn relays which in turn operate the solinoids.
Street Rod Headquarters has the best quality solenoids and kits for my money . Have used them on several cars with very reliable results> BUCKD
Door handles just for the safety, I know some think no handles look cool but I have a friend who owned a chopped custom with no handles inside or out, he was driving along and had an electrical fire got stopped but had no way out, another friend was following and was able to pry the door open with a tire wrench. If you only know the special way to open the doors than no one can help if there is trouble. I know " it will never happen to me" Just MY thoughts
I have an old Ball's system in my Sedan Delivery, no handles inside or out. I used a momentary button behind the door pads right at knee level to open the doors from inside. The relays are wired through the neutral safety switch so the door solenoids cannot be activated with the transmission in gear. I put a pull cable in the front wheel well for emergencies. I believe I will add a backup cable inside as well when I redo the car next Winter. My OT Crew Cab also has remote entry. (Can't remember the brand at the moment). I had to replace and AutoLoc unit that lasted less than a year. In this case I used power door lock motors to activate the latches. I had to rework the latches on the front doors to eliminate the locks. Bosch relays are your friends.
I built a truck without door handles, but I left the lock cylinders in the doors. I hooked them directly to bear jaw latches, so I had a manual system. The bad part was the door is always locked and you WILL leave your keys inside. I kept a spare key wired under the truck and a spare in my wallet. As far as getting out in an emergency, windows break from either side. If you would rather burn to death than break a window in your car, OH WELL!!!!!!
No self respecting custom would have door handles, leave them off completely! I've been using Ball's gear reduction motors in all the customs I've built since 1983. Almost never had a failure. I dont' like solenoids much, as they can eventually "stick" and cause a massive draw, usually burning wires, and hopefully not your entire car, though I've seen this happen! Solenoids also use a lot of amperage, so even a relay inline can become overloaded. Ball's use less amperage, so you use a smaller fuse, and relays aren't overtaxed. The important thing with the old latches, with ANY system, is to thoroughly clean them and give them a look lubrication. Then the actuators will work easier. I always include a cable connected to one of the interior handles, going to outside the car as an emergency opener in case of actuator , relay failure, or just a dead battery.
Great feedback guys. I haven't considered the Balls motors, but that makes a lot of since. I also fly RC planes and the electric guys use what they call "floppy noodle" wire. It is 8 ot 10 ga. wire with a bunch of strands so it is real flexible and would work in the door hinge area. I like the wireless remote idea but with a pull backup on at least one door and the hood so I can get to the battery. I'm just starting my wiring so I think I'm good to go! Love this site. Thanks for the input. John
Had shaved doors on a bunch of cars and they do look good but never again.Had several that were suicde also and chopped also,as one post stated dangerous,cant get the doors open cant climb out the windows aint a good thing
I saw a "tech article" somewhere the other day that showed flush mounting push buttons in doors for the shaved look but mechanical actuation. It seems that you could/can run key lock pushbuttons so that you can lock the doors or run them unlocked. Funny but I have run suicide doors with no handles on the 48 since 1981 and never had much of a problem. It does attract the adenoid Andys who are always wont to tell me that my suicide doors are unsafe and that shaved door handles aren't legal because rescuers can't figure out how to get in if I am in a wreck. Then they tell me that it is too low for a truck and I will never be able to take it "up hunting like that". On my truck I simply ran a piece of welding rod down through the bottom of the door from the latch and let it stick out just enough so it stayed in place. That is my emergency door opener. You have to grab it with a pair of plyers or the hole in a key to pull it.
I have pOwer windows, with an auxiliary keyed switch. Turn it, and the window goes down. Reach in open the door. 15 years later it still works, everyday.
All the cars I've built, I just leave the interior door handle on it. You don't HAVE to take the interior handle off. Simple fix.
Had a 50 ford coupe ,I used the wing with inside door handles was the best but noway to lock it up at a hotel which sucked.33 Had inside door handles with remote power windows,my 40 remote door poppers and button on the inside I have had enough of all that ,door handles is a good thing
I used a SPAL kit and have not had a problem- I've run shaved doors on my car since 1978 (Mr Gasket made them back then) and just kept the inside handle to open the door - good luck
Wasnt going to tell this on myself but I will.Just getting my 33 together did have away into the car so I was being real careful to make sure I left the window down.Well this cold fall day drove the coupe into town on the way back had the windows rolled up and pulled the car over at a country road blocking the road jumped out to adjust the timing and left it running and slammed the door shut.So here I am got an intersection blocked windows rolled up car is running and no way to get in it,SHIT had to nock the back glass out of it to get in it enough said
That is the kind of thing I'm worried about! I have luck like that! I will be sure I have a back-up plan for entry. May so an inside cable and leave the inside handles. Thanks for the wisdom. John
These work great, and they're cheap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tubular-2-P...485?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d44c9b1dd
The Jalopy Journal
