I am having a hell of a time trying to get my 350 to run right. It starts right away after 2 pumps and when at idle runs rich,. So rich it will burn your eyes. Then when driving the power is reduced and will pop when off throttle. I have swapped the HEI cap and rotor and verified there is no mid-fire. The carb is a 500 cfm edelbrock with a performer manifold.
I'm betting you got some crud under your needles and seats. Also check your float levels including float drop.
2 pumps isnt really good, unless you mean when its cold. An intake isnt going to be bad, unless its leaking at a gasket. Which will either cause it to run lean by letting in more air, or your get smoke from it sucking oil. Would check to make sure your vacuum advance is working properly, and check the timing. Cant say much about the carb, I toss Edelbrocks in the scrap pile.
Yea, it's 2 pumps when cold. The vacuum advance is on the distributor correct? Bc I swapped that out. The carb is brand new less than 1500 miles
Yeah, the vacuum advance is the little canister on the side of the distributor. When you swapped out the distributor, was it a new or used one, and why did you swap it? Did the problem exist before the swap? You can atleast test to make sure the vacuum advance is working by either sucking on the hose, and verifying its actuating, or use a hand vacuum pump.
Diddo. With the engine running take a look stright down the carb. You should NOT see any fuel coming from the boosters at idle. a stuck float will cause the boosters to drip fuel into the intake at idle and run horribly rich. I've had it happen, seeming out of nowhere, And it doesnt take much at ALL to keep the needle from seating. Not much at ALL. If your only running one filter, and its a cheapo parts store, or see thru screen type...Its even more likely.
Something's up with the carb. Your plugs are fouled now, and that's why it's popping. Make sure the choke is staying open. Inlet needle and seat have to seal...check for debris or bad or sticking or wrongly installed needle, stuck float, or gas-logged float. Check float level. Maybe too much fuel pump pressure. Check for gas in oil. You might have to change the oil. Too much gas in the oil, you'll wash the bearings or maybe even blow up the engine. Then change the plugs.
Ok I'm going to try all of this. I swapped from a billet HEI to a used stock HEI because of the running rich. It happened on both distributors. I'm running an edelbrock fuel filter and I have had this issue with the carb since installed. It's an electric choke and I have not verified it is is opened or not
I'd be confident to check the carb out. Like Rickybop said, check the floats. Thats the #1 thing to do, and always the best place to start with carbs. I've also had a float with a micro pin hole in it, I couldn't see it with my eyes but i could feel and hear jusssst a bit of fuel slosh around on the float when i shook it (pulled out of the carb of course) It caused me headaches for sure. rebuilt a carb, installed, flooded, rebuilt again, flooded...Finally shook the folats. AH HA! Just take your time and find a few videos on edelbrock carbs (Youtubes got a few good ones). start from there, you'll get it purring in no time. Good luck bud
Which preformer intake is it.....square bore or quadra jet spread bore.....I had the same problem once....a edlebrock had been bolted on a quadrajet preformer intake
Edelbrocks will almost always flood if you don't use a pressure regulator and cut the pressure down to about 2 pounds.
I just had an edelbrock rebuilt after only a few thousand miles on my son's Camaro. I was told there were a couple things installed incorrectly. I bought the carb new, and it had never been apart. Runs significantly better now. I would also check fuel pressure, too much will push past the float valve.
What model of Edelbrock is it? There is a tuning chart for each model to follow. Good luck with it!!!!! My suggestion is to file that carb in the garbage and go with a tunable Holley or equivalent. I've screwed with these damn Edelbrocks enough to know not to use them. Also....You'll have trouble tuning your carb if your ignition isn't dialed in first. Timing is critical with the proper vacuum advance coupled with the mechanical advance for your engine. It also makes a difference with the cam you have too. Find someone that knows how to set this up and it will be worth the cost in the long run.
Well don't just throw the damn thing out lol. Not everyone can up and buy a new carb because they got frustrated with it once. You'll be able to widdle it down. Shoot for about 5-6 psi on the regulator, no more. If you had no regulator on it previously, that coulda been your issue. Keep at it bud. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The metering rods can be installed wrong leaving them out of the jets. I had this happen once years ago. Remove the covers over the metering rods, lift them out and reset them. You should be able to easily slide them up and down into the jets. The first thing I thought of when reading the thread is the q-jet seal problem but since this is a square bore manifold, not an adaption, the float level or metering rods are the primary causes.
If it has an electric choke and you're planning to drive it in cold weather, make sure the choke is working properly. When the engine is warmed up the choke valve NEEDS TO BE OPEN. Learn how the choke is supposed to work and adjust it properly. There may be other issues to work out too, as already mentioned. But the choke could be a quick and cheap fix for several problems you're experiencing.
Yes, pretty sure. I installed it 4 years ago, since I have had a kid, gotten married and bought a house. My intake manifold specs have some how slipped my memory.
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