Another frame painting question

Getting ready to paint my frame. Was a new frame never been painted. Sitting about 10 yrs. Has ver light surface rust. I have painted some suspension parts befor assembly so I'm looking to do the frame and touch up the other parts. All with disassembly of everything. I was told to use POR 15 but was told it chailks out. Do they make a different type? Looking for suggestions. I'll probably end up painting the face of the rails??? Car will end up in primer or a patina look. Not shiny.

 

send it out and have it powdered coated, just had 1 done in a satin black.
Cost me $350, can't buy the sandpaper, primer and paint for that !!!!

 

Mine was powder coated gloss black. Damp rag was all the clean up it needed.

 

Power coating is a great way to do a frame. HRP

 

Locally here in California the going rate to blast and double coat with powder paint is $700+. Well worth the cost. I've painted frames in the past and won't again, but I like Por-15 for axles and suspension. Por-15 is actually tougher than powder paint and not damaged by chemicals.

 

I'm thinking powdercoating id way too shiny for the look I'm after.

 

sem 28101 black

 

Have had a lot of small parts powdercoated. It is available in a wide variety of gloss levels, including flat. Also (almost) zillions of colors.

 

Powder coating isn't a traditional finish, anyone can spot a powder coated frame.

Clean the metal
Use some good epoxy primer (SPI)
Spray your base color

 

Frame have to be blasted?

 

text book=yes
but...you can scuff and sand, epoxy prime and paint.
por i think can be put over rust.

 

Ummmmm...powder DOES come in flat, satin, and semi gloss.
Much tougher than paint, and as someone said, sometimes cheaper than buying all the materials to paint it.
POR is good stuff, but on a brand new frame? If it's just light surface rust, give it a scrub with Metal Prep or Picklex, then a good tough catalyzed primer and paint. SS uro, Imron, Centari, all good.

 

Would powder coat peel if not blasted first?

 

POR-15 only gets chalky if exposed to UV. So unless you are going to leave the frame outside in the sun....it won't get chalky. I have suspension parts for my 69 Camaro hanging in my garage that were painted 3 years ago and they still look black and glossy like the day I painted them.

 

The 42 Chevy I am building, I had the frame blasted, and then painted it with POR15. as well as the suspension parts. This frame will be covered by the body, so the chalking by UV rays will not happen. I love the way POR15 goes on and covers

 

I've painted many frames with good old acrylic enamel. Hook an engine stand at each end so you can turn the frame and get paint everywhere. Stays beautiful for many years and easy to wipe clean. Powder coat is to thick for me.

 

I recently used some eastwood fast etch with a red scuff pad to clean light surface rusted parts . it worked great. PPG also has a good metal prep. I like the por 15 product but would not use it on an exposed frame. Our local orellys caries a hot rod black that looks good and black sealers/epoxies. Most auto paint stores will have a low gloss single stage black. I would recommend you use an epoxy primer before spraying. I will agree with the others that powder coating may be an economical option after you add all costs.

 

You can get it coated in flat, matte or shiney, and yes it has 2b blasted.
the one I had done was blasted, and coated in matte for 350

 

Take it to East Hartford and get it powder coated,Used to be called Airborn coating,excellent results.

 

If you don't powder coat I've used Eastwood Chassis Satin black(Awesome paint for a arousal can) or brush from there can. Pete

 

John Deere "Blitz Black" is also an awesome alternative. Hey.....they use it on tractors that are left outside. I went the powdercoat route on my first '31, but will be using Blitz Black on the second one.

 

Not so sure, I accidently got some brake fluid on a Por-15 frame and it lifted right up just like it was cheep enamel.
I'm not sold on powder coat either, tough to work with if you ever need to go back and make a change, hard to get to shiny metal if you need to ever do some welding in the future. Might be harder to chip then paint but it will chip. Other down side to me is got to be real carefull to mask anything that's a tight fit or it won't fit after! Also, I tend to do a little clean up bondo work on some frames on areas that really show, real pita to do if you powder coat. I still sandblast, coat with DP then paint with a good single stage urathane.

 

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/


I used this stuff right here and if I had used a better brush you would never know it was hand painted, even with bad brush you would be hard pressed to tell. Can be sprayed also and I have to tell ya it is a very hard paint, takes abuse very well. I learned of this product from royalshifter here on the hamb. Check his victoria build post here on the hamb. Also I did not do the three step process, wire brushed the frame, blew it off and painted, two years later and still looks like the day I painted it.

 

This stuff is simple enough to apply and I have painted it on , bent , twisted , and beat on it with a ballpeen hammer without chipping.

http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp

 

Anything I want black I sandblast then epoxy prime with Southern Polyurethanes black.I did my 56 headlight buckets inner fenders frame all small parts etc.I know a lot of guys shill for Barry.I. dont just love the product.

 

If the rust is surface rust-you may get away with some metal prep and steel wool to clean it up-then cover with epoxy primer and top coat with single stage urethane in what ever color you want.
If you want it real pretty-do your finish body work over the epoxy,sand smooth,then a couple coats of high build primer,block sand to 320 or 400-then top coat. If painting with a metallic-better finish sand to 600 or finer.
Will stay looking good for a long time.

 

Did my frame and front and rear with POR 15 SEMI GLOSS BLACK and it turned out fine. Time will tell how it holds up. The rear had surface rust and heavy pitting but I just sanded off all the lose stuff. The front was already primed and the frame had some epoxy primer on it as well as bare metal ( in the areas where I Z'd it) but some surface rust. I hope it stays on but it's not a show car so who give a crap.

 

Frame for what? Does it show or is it under the car and hidden most of the time? Show car or daily?

POR15 is way over rated and surface rust can be blasted off with a good power washer, like the industrial ones you rent. Or a cup brush and an angle grinder, or a DA and a little elbow grease.

If it were mine I would clean it up, hit it with some self etching primer then blow some epoxy on it. But I am not a big powder coat guy personally. Just too cheap I guess.

 

I realize this is an old thread, but since it is back alive I thought I'd put in my 2 cents. For years I painted everything and generally with Dupont Imron. I love the stuff, it is tough, easy to spray (can't hardly get it to run) and it retains it's gloss for years and years. But it is not cheap. I just bought a quart of it to spray my engine and it was $90 plus $120 for the hardener, and that is a "short" quart that isn't even a full quart, it just makes a quart when mixed with the hardener.

However, I do not like spraying paint (especially Imron) any more because it is nasty stuff for your body and I don't have a booth, I just shoot in the driveway. So first I have to grind and clean all the parts I want to spray, shoot them with epoxy primer (also very expensive) and then top coat them with the Imron. When I am done I have to clean up the equipment and my mess, which also takes some time.

These days I just have stuff powder coated instead. I drop off rusty old parts, wait a week or two, and I pick up nice shiny parts that are ready to install. The powder coater I use has various colors and degrees of shine, so I can get flat, satin, almost shiny, or very shiny coating done, and it is CHEAPER than me spraying the stuff. I paid $ 389 for the frame, and all the white pieces in the pictures below and they came out great. If I would have painted the same parts I would have had maybe $800 or more in paint, grinding discs, thinner, sand paper, etc, etc, and it would have taken me forever to do.

Therefore, I am painting less and less every day and powder coating more and more.

Don