I picked this 392 up of Ebay for 3K a few years ago all I knew about it was that it had a Weiand 4 x 2 intake and a Vertex magneto on it. When I got it home I stripped it down to see what condition it was in, to my surprise it was std bore with a custom std steel crank, big Crane solid cam. Sold the 4 x2 for $400 purchased the blower kit 3K picked up a fully rebuild set of adjustable rocker shafts $750. So it owes me about $6,500, I still think I can rebuild it with new pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets, machining etc for somewhere between 10 to 12K all up total. Why would you want a crate motor when you could have a Hemi.
hi: Guys...... absolutely LOVE old school HEMI engines.My son and I are going to have a great time building this 331.....just want a cruiser for old times sake!...200 hp stock ....cheap extra hp just with HOTHEADS intake and EDELBROCK 600 cfm 4bl. ....maybe 230 hp?...and more ideas out there.? Thanks..PS enjoy the pics and talk.Joined alliance today.. very cool.
Just add a cam and some porting work to that and there's another hundred horsepower.... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Those killer heads....making power with a Hemi is easy to do because of the massive power potential of the heads. If the cost of rare or hard to get items was not an issue,everyone would be building a Hemi. If cost was not an issue,a 354 Hemi would bury a 355 sbc every time,just due to superior cylinder head technology. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
No trash talk intended. I wasn't making any claims, just asking questions based on what others in this thread had said. I can dig that. So they're more capable of creating higher HP than other engines, have some cool nostalgic history, and sound tough. What's not to like there? I can appreciate that, but I can't afford it!
That's exactly where the trouble lies Mac:Things get pricey in a hurry.They make stupid power naturally aspirated,and even better with a blower,but it takes a truckload of cash to build one. If you can afford to build one they are absolutely magical.If not,get some finned vette covers and an old 283 270 hp 2x4 intake,and that 350 can look like its straight outta 1962,but make big block level power if you run aftermarket heads,a good cam,and maybe even a stroker kit. Scott Posted using two Dixie cups and a medium length piece of string.
To the OP: A budget built 331 with cast pistons,cam,carb,etc,should be able to pound out 350 hp with no trouble.Turn the wick up a bit and 400 should be pretty easy.Add a supercharger to the combo,and you should be able to get a nice,reliable 500+ hp with minimal drama.Those heads have pretty rough ports from the factory,so I would definitely clean them up with some pocket porting,and some cleanup on the intake and exhaust ports,with streamlining of the valve guides. These are a hot rodders dream.The budget cast pistons are also quite low on compression,and many guys have used them in blower applications with low boost levels.That might be fun and cheap! Scott Posted using two Dixie cups and a medium length piece of string.
If you are around here for anytime at all, you will soon find out what FNG means; you should be able to figure it out yourself if you think about it. Also, If it's a '54, it's probably NOT an extended bell. This subject has been discussed extensively. Judicious use of The "Search" function will reveal the tremendous amount of early hemi knowledge and information on this board.
Hello; any ideas.....hotheads intake for a 331 hemi.... 2 versions .. HOTHEADS flat intake or 4 degree rake (to keep carb flat). We want to run in engine before mock up stage,would be nice to know which one to buy ..I realize at mock up you would know but I,m thinking 4 degree rake.???
Boats use a rake to help with the carb while climbing onto the "plane", but don't know how much rake. Might be of use on a Pike's Peak car
That 4 degree rake is pretty common on car intakes. The motor is usually mounted about 3-4 degrees 'down' in the back for various reasons, so that will bring the carb(s) back level. But if you have a rake in the stance (lower in front), you may want the flat version. You want the carbs as level as possible, but it's not critical unless the angle gets pretty big.
Thanks crazy Steve ...just what I thought ,and you have confirmed what we will buy from Hot Heads,a 4 degree rake 4 barrel intake part#50000. A 331 hemi with a 600 crm Edelbrock carb
Yeah, I'm a Chevy guy, but this 392 is my retirement build and sitting in my shop and draws a crowd every time. cb1 P.S. Currently rebuilding a 327. Using spare lunch money. Should have the parts in a couple weeks, etc...
I have 2 392 Hemi's for sale in the classifieds here on the HAMB. One good core for $2000 (a 1957 392 Hemi) and the other is a 1958 Imperial 392 Hemi, it's currently stuck but comes with a transmission for $2000. I'm soaking the stuck one and we will see if she comes loose. I only post this here to show that you can find a 392 Hemi for less $$$$. Make me an offer!! I will ship on your dime.
Your price is certainly reasonable, and if you had those in SoCal you would not wait long for a buyer. Prices do vary throughout the country based on local demand. .
As far as the power potential of a 331, a friend of mine built one with dual 4's, on the dyno it made 450 hp. After a tear down and inspection, it was discovered the stock 2 bolt main caps were doing a dance, so 4 bolt main caps should be a consideration. I ran a blown 331 in a dragster, with 4 bolt caps, aluminum M/T rods ( built by Keith Black in '68). When you are making plenty of horsepower, with the 331's, the next weak point will be the main webs in the block, let alone breaking the crankshaft. This video shows the potential of a 331, but if your are going to use it, don't expect a long life. http://youtu.be/xKv1AnWIMRo
I have no first-hand early hemi experience, but this surprises me. No detonation? Was the crank indexed? I've seen main cap brinelling @ 650hp in 2 bolt main BB chevies, just based on anecdotal evidence from old TF racers, I always thought the early hemi blocks were stronger/stiffer than the BB chevies?
They are plenty stout. Can't speak to Marty's cap problem but we haven't had any problems with street engines. We always use studs and they seem to do a fine job of keeping things in place. .
Just thinking out loud here, I'd be looking carefully at the crank in that motor for a short or out of phase throw. From what I have heard, the machining on the Chrysler stuff is usually pretty damn good, but I think somethings fishy there.
i would like to add something here. guys want a premium for a 392. if you take a 392 crank and cut down the rods and mains to 354 size and add .050 to the thrust you make a 354 a 392 .060 over bore. about 389 at .030 over. the power potential is huge with a hemi. quality isn't expensive its priceless.
Tom Waters Girdle<?xml:namespace prefix = "o" ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> by dan miller » 13 Nov 2009 10:17<o></o> We were having trouble with the front main cap moving around on our 354 EMC early hemi. The engine is partially filled, cyro treated, and has 4 bolt splayed main caps on the center three mains. We had no issues up to about 550 horsepower. We noticed metal transfer on the front main cap at around 575 horsepower, and it started to become an issue at 600 horsepower. We installed a Tom Waters girdle and made 121 pulls, many over 650 horsepower. Upon tear down, we observed that the front main is now solid. Zero movement/issues. We also installed one of Tom's girdles on our Junior Fueler, about 850 or so horsepower. At these power levels, main cap movement is a fact of life, and one just has to live with it. We only have about ten passes on it (and haven't torn it down yet), so it's probably too early to tell, but I'll advise when we see something. It might not cure things, but I'm betting that it will be of significant help. A very nice product. Inexpensive, very high quality, came with all parts necessary, installed easily - a true bolt on. I highly recommend it. Danny<o></o> <o></o> UPDATE<o></o> We run the JrFueler @ approaching 900 hp, and have zero issues. The mains walk around a little, but much less with the girdle. We have about 40 passes on a new block, and there is main cap movement, but significantly less than without the girdle.<o></o> <o> </o>
Wow, so these things are actually pretty shaky. Aluminum rods look like the way to go if you are trying to make power... Is it mostly the front cap, or all of them?
In Chico , Ca, I watched a 331 CI engine destined to run in the EMC make 645 HP on John Beck's dyno. That same engine came in 3rd that year. That's naturally aspirated, dual four's, on gas. A nice street engine. It thundered
Shaky? ...guess it all comes down to the individual expectations. Some engines may exhibit issues that similar assemblies don't. As with any rebuild, for any purpose, the correct pile-o-parts will determine the final product. A JR fuel car will certainly stress the engine a bit differently that a carb'd 450hp street package, or, even a blown street package. As to alum rods, I'd pass. Back in the 'old' days the big alum jobs were better than the steel rods of the day, but now, there is a helluva selection of steel rods to pick from. Remember, rods are there to transfer energy so if they took up zero space and had zero weight then they would be 100% efficient. However, weight is an issue so the less the better; alum rods are not necessarily light and the steel is oft times stronger. .
Running aluminum rods in a motor with iffy block integrity has nothing to do with wieght, but I've explained the whys and wherefores of running aluminum rods in a block that is exhibiting issues with the main web/cap integrity on here enough times, I'm not gonna bother doing it again. I do realize thats not addressed in the magazines, and that chinese Eagle/Scat crap is the be-all end-all in connecting rods, but I have long since moved past depending on the magazines for all my tech info, and I aint drinking the Kool-Aid. Any block that has issues with the caps moving around at 450hp definately has structural issues, and when I have TWO sources that I respect, and have experience with the engine in question, backing each other up, I tend to perk up my ears. If you choose not to, I am not going to argue with you. To me, it looks like a girdle is in in order around 400hp. I have been doing this a while. But you are entitled to your opinion.
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